Opel Specialty tools and fittings

[Washout]

I've been rebuilding my 1.9 and due to 5 months at the machine shop I had plenty of time to build some specialty tools. I got me to thinking that many of you have probably done the same. So here's a chance to show off the tricks and tools you've built just for your opel. My tools include a fixture to hold the cylinder head or intake manifold for working on. This allowed the head to be rotated 360 degrees while porting and polishing without beating the surfaces up in the process. The intake can also be attached to this while porting and installing a plenium tent. Of course before I used it for the manifold I had time to bead blast and powdercoat it.

[Washout]

Since I found it tough to get a good spot to mount my dial indicator for measuring lifter travel during the process of cam Indexing I made a shelf that bolts to the head providing a rigid mount. While I was at it an old valve cover and a little time made a nice splash guard for the timing chain.

[Washout]

The last tool I made was an attachment that plugs directly into my floor jack to lift the engine in place. It allows the engine to be rolled under the car and simply jacked into place. The angle works well for my setup because I don't have the back of the car as high as the front. If I needed it, I would install an attachment to the rear of the rack to allow adjustments.

[simplemind7]

nice work. the only one i've used is a 14mm (i think it was) wrench cut in half then welded on a 90 degree angle to get the one nasty bolt out when separating the trans from the bell housing to do a clutch.

[soybean]

I really like the attachment for the engine in post 3. I've been pondering the same thing for a while. Some more pictures close up, esp the bracketry in the second picture would be nice. I'd thought of modifing a transmission jack in somewhat the same manner to be able to tilt the engine. Thanks, Jarrell

[Washout]

Soybean,

Here are a few more pics. The bracketry you spoke of is just the engine crossmember. I used 2x2 square tubing left over from another project and turned down a piece of shaft for the main pin. The front crossmember fits snugly over the square tubing and holds everything steady. My floor jack has a removable jack plate so I just remove it and put this in its place. I put my engine back in this morning by myself in about 30 minutes using this. You just roll it under the car and jack it up. Line up the front and rear crossmembers and your done. The long tube is 42 inches and the short tube is 11 1/2.

[Jeff Pozorski]

In your picture showing the engine ready to be lifted up into the car you see your jack stands on top of concrete blocks on the floor. Please correct me if I am wrong but I believe that concrete blocks should never be used on their side to support weight as this is their weak spot. They are built to support weight in the upright position. I have always used a 2x12 on top of my blocks to support the jack stands and would not trust the side strength of the blocks with my life under the car! Egads, I am beginning to sound like my father! And look like him too!

[jordan]

I never use concrete blocks under a car, actually one of my pet peeves, I much prefer precariously stacked lumber....kidding. But in this instance if you think about it, with out the engine in the car there is not an awful amount of weight on the block, I personally wouldn't do it, but there are things a lot more dangerous that can be done.

[kwilford]

...but since the object of the exercise is to INSTALL the engine into the car, it will be heavy soon enough!

Lesson #1: Concrete is pretty strong in "compression", very weak in "tension". If the force is applied correctly (or the concrete structure is designed correctly), minimal tensile load is applied to the concrete. Tensile loads can be tolerated by steel reinforcing bar, or pre-stressed cable or such, embedded inside the concrete, but NOT by the concrete itself. The reason "cinder" blocks are used "on their side" (in relation to the photo shown) is to ensure all loads are compressive (on the "webs"), with NO LOADS on the faces. By the way, cinder block doesn't have any reinforcing steel inside (AFAIK)

Lesson #2: If you DO feel compelled to use cinder block, in a manner similar to that shown, isolate the steel stand legs with a layer of wood (3/4" plywood or a piece of 2x8). The steel legs have sharp points and edges, that are VERY inclined to split the concrete. And down tumbles the car....

HTH

[baz]

a post script to lesson #2
put some dry sand on the floor first to spread the load to the floor better

this will reduce stress points where a high point on the block touches the concrete floor

[markandson]

Fortunately the stands are wide enough so that the legs are being supported by the end webs of the concrete blocks, so in this case, as long as the blocks and stands are nicely lined up, you should be ok. Not that I would do what is shown, just an observation. A better question might be, why not fix that belly pan? As far as special tools go, I have made several, most of which I have posted in other places, but one that I have not is a custom puller for the rear brake drums. I broke the flange of one drum trying to get it off and that was enough for me. I have used it on my car and also on Opellane's. It grabs the 1/4" rim of the drum, has a 3/4" center screw, and has pads on the backside so that you can create tension with the screw and then beat the tabs with a big hammer.

[soybean]

Thanks for the pictures and the reply. I can make that fairly easily. Great idea. As far as the other responses, I can agree with the ideas since the main reason we've got these cars is to drive them. Like the guy form NYPD Blue? used to say "Remember, let's be carefull out there" Thanks again, Jarrell

[Washout]

Well, this post certainly didn't go where I thought it would. Thanks for all the concern though.

Quote "A better question might be, why not fix that belly pan?"

One thing at a time, I've just spent 6 months and 3K rebuilding the engine. I'm not even sure this chassis is worth saving. I only bought it to have something fun to drive while I finish my other project, a 1950 Willys Overland Pickup. Also I'm not a paint and body guy, it's just like drywall, I put too much on and then take too much off and repeat.

[soybean]

I think it went well. We learned 3 good tips and I got some great info from them. I learned something that will help me in my installation(s) and the other tips and items were great. I don't think anyone was criticizing you, rather just concerned for you. On the bright side, a lot will be cleaned up by "housekeeping" in the future.
If you've got any other neat tools, please share them.
I got a great one from Keith Wilford on the body dollie. Keep 'em coming.
Thanks, Jarrell