Used Weber Carburetor Guide

[bigjim5551212]

Here is my guide to buying used Weber Carburetors. I have published this on various websites.

Used Carburetor Guide


Here is my guide again for people looking for Used Weber Carbs at the JY or on Ebay


Ok, for all you guys that hunt JY's. If you are going to look for a Weber Carb, this is what you should look for. First I will mark the cars and trucks, and then the model of carbs. I will be pleased to tell you if the carb is worthwhile if you find something else. I have the repair kits available. These vehicles had Webers as conversions only. No car in the US or Canada came factory with the DGV or DGAV

Vehicles
BMW - 2002 with 2 barrel manifolds (best place to find a used Weber)

Datsun/Nissan - carbureted trucks and cars pre 1986 L, Z, A, E series engines

Jeep-CJ, Wrangler with 258 motor

Mazda - B2600, B2200 trucks. Most cars had people that didn’t care about performance other than rotaries

Mitsubishi/Dodge D50 - carbureted pickups, Raiders, Colt front drives

Opel - Opel GT

Suzuki – 1300 Samurai

Toyota - Corolla pre 87, Tercel pre 91, Celica-pre 81, Land Cruiser 80's and earlier, Pickups pre-88

Volvo-non fuel injection cars (144, 122)

Ford - Old Cortina mark 1 (1967?)

Carbs to use
32/36 DGV (manual choke), 32/36 DGAV (auto choke), 32 DGAV, 32 DGV
38 DGAS Maximum performance, mileage will be lower
36 DCD, 28/36 DCD

Questionable carbs
Holley 5200/Weber 32/36 DFAV - linkage reversed to DGV series, most Holleys have linkage that is not bolted on and some have non changeable idle jets, throttle shafts wear easy
Fiat Webers, DMSA series harder to get parts, linkage reversed, 1800 carbs, 34 ADF
Renault Webers DIR series- same as Fiat
Empi 32/36 Carb - It's pure trash

If you are handy, and have access to parts, the Renault and Fiat carbs will work OK

[beverlyw]

"Carbs to use
32/36 DGV (manual choke), 32/36 DGAV (auto choke), 32 DGAV, 32 DGV
38 DGAS Maximum performance, mileage will be lower
36 DCD, 28/36 DCD"

I just purchased a 73 Opel GT. I'm trying to get it fixed up. Which carb should I purchase? I know I need to get one - I'm just not sure which one to get. I know the difference between manual and auto choke - but I don't know what all of the other numbers mean. What are the differences?




Thanks

[Anonymous D]

To approach this subject more comprehensively, it should be emphasized that just because a carb will fit an Opel doesn't mean you should buy or use it.

The "Holley-Weber" not only will require a custom-modified "backwards" linkage, but will also run lean and overheat the interior of an Opel cylinder head -- so this model shouldn't be included with useable Opel applications.

Additionally, whether a used Weber is rebuildable or not, depends on its wear. For example, if the throttle shaft bushing is worn out, that will have to be replaced -- which is a part not included in a standard rebuild kit. Idle mixture screws, idle jet passages, choke mechanisms, power pumps, and other hardware, also can suffer damage after years of use (and are not in the standard kits).

Different model types are better for certain applications (water choke for cold-weather driving, 38DGAS for a high-compression performance-built motor, the solenoid-equipped 33B1 where emissions regulations require it). And much of the results of a Weber also depend on the quality of its installation (particularly sealing it from vacuum leaks). So, do the research and get educated, before acting on a suggestion.

[jvandyke]

Originally Posted by Anonymous D To approach this subject more comprehensively, it should be emphasized that just because a carb will fit an Opel doesn't mean you should buy or use it. The "Holley-Weber" not only will require a custom-modified "backwards" linkage, but will also run lean and overheat the interior of an Opel cylinder head -- so this model shouldn't be included with useable Opel applications.

My (recently deceased) GT came to me with a Holley/Weber (Holley 5200) and it worked fine. Installed "backwards" to put the primary on the outboard and was converted to a throttle cable instead of the stock linkage. Ideal, no, useable, yes. I then fitted a Weber 38 (my motor was "a bit built" 2,0) and was running great until the wreck.

[kwilford]

IMHO, the order of preference:

1) Solex: only if you are lucky enough to have one that isn't worn out, or are capable of magic where most of us are mere mortals

2) Weber DF Series (DFM, DFAV, etc) or Holley Weber: Dave speaks the truth about the reversed linkage and is justified in his caution about the reversed primary possibly causing a lean condition. That said, the linkage can be quite readily modified by rotating the last link to rotate the opposite direction, fabricating a quite simple off-set pin at the carb bracket, and the mixture can be modified somewhat by jetting. And this is NOT hearsay, as I ran a Weber 32DFM for about four years and over 50,000 mile very nicely, with no ill effects, and it ran a HELL of a lot better than with the Solex

3) Weber 32/36 DG Series (DGV, DGAV, DGEV): The carb of choice, but it STILL requires proper jetting, or it is a waste of time

4) Weber 38DGAS (or 38DPS100, which is the manual choke version): Great carb, can be used with ANY 1.9 IF properly jetted, but better suited for a higher output engine

5) Weber (or Dell'Orto or Solex or Mikuni) Side-draft, Single first then Dual: Many have found the SSD (Single Side Draft) to be the BEST carb, once jetted correctly, but if you want the ultimate in power and boasting ability, the DSD (Dual Side Draft) is the way to go

6) Fuel Injection: Ultimately, carbs are seldom as good as a properly designed and installed electronic fuel injection system, but that is the topic of a different Forum

HTH

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by beverlyw "Carbs to use I just purchased a 73 Opel GT. I'm trying to get it fixed up. Which carb should I purchase? I know I need to get one - I'm just not sure which one to get. I know the difference between manual and auto choke - but I don't know what all of the other numbers mean. What are the differences?

I've always liked the original early model (69, 70, 71) type Solex carb. when that became hard to manage owning 7 of these cars now, when they wear out I replaced the solex with the weber 32/36 DGA, lot of people swear by them. I've never have liked it but they do work and are reliable. A few years ago I bought a 73 Opel Gt that has always run really great and idles at very low range and consistent it had a weber 38 on it. I've purchased another one for the 72 I'm rebuilding now (bought it a few months ago with parts) and will eventually change the weber 32/36 out on the others with the 38 or go back to the original solex. I just acquired a few good used solex also.
Another thing if you have not considered it is to replace the points with an electronic unit. Cost about 40 some bucks and so easy to swap out I was impressed, takes about 20minutes and another 15 or so to time the ignition after the change out..

[opelnut10]

Originally Posted by Dennis Texas I've always liked the original early model (69, 70, 71)type Solex carb. when that became hard to manage owning 7 of these cars now, when they wear out I replaced the solex with the weber 32/36 DGA, lot of people swear by them. I've never have liked it but they do work and are reliable. A few years ago I bought a 73 Opel Gt that has always ran really great and idles at very low range and consistent it had a weber 38 on it. I've purchased another one for the 72 I'm rebuilding now (bought it a few months ago with parts)and will eventually change the weber 32/36 out on the others with the 38 or go back to the original solex. I just acquired a few good used solex also. Another thing if you have not considered it is to replace the points with an electronic unit. Cost about 40 some bucks and so easy to swap out I was impressed,takes about 20minutes and another 15 or so to time the ignition after the change out..

The Solex has been given a bad rap, very simply they do not like dirt. It has a lot of small passages that if not clean causes most of the ill running by the Solex. It is very important to keep good filters on any solex equiped car, air cleaner, fuel filters (1 between the fuel tank and the fuel pump and 1 between the fuel pump and the carb). Next the vacuum secondary Solex invites more problem, use the progressive linkage carb (found on GT's) and change out the -primary venturi to one from the secondary side of another Solex Make sure the set screws that hold it in the body are TIGHT) Finally, the Solex has a separate mixture screw for air and fuel, so an air fuel meter is really a good piece of equipment for setting the carb. It is a lot of bother, but if you want to retain the original look and air cleaner system that is the way to do it. IMHO

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by beverlyw "Carbs to use 32/36 DGV (manual choke), 32/36 DGAV (auto choke), 32 DGAV, 32 DGV 38 DGAS Maximum performance, mileage will be lower 36 DCD, 28/36 DCD" Which carb should I purchase? I'm just not sure which one to get. I don't know what all of the other numbers mean. What are the differences? Thanks

If you want I will email you a "Haynes" Weber manual covers the weber 38 and the weber 32/36 plus several other webers also has Zenith , Stromberg, and SU carbs in the same manual, it detailed sufficient to let you decide what is what if you like, the file is large 64 meg, give me an email address if you want it .

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by beverlyw "Carbs to use 32/36 DGV (manual choke), 32/36 DGAV (auto choke), 32 DGAV, 32 DGV 38 DGAS Maximum performance, mileage will be lower 36 DCD, 28/36 DCD" I just purchased a 73 Opel GT. I'm trying to get it fixed up. Which carb should I purchase? I know I need to get one - I'm just not sure which one to get. I know the difference between manual and auto choke - but I don't know what all of the other numbers mean. What are the differences? Thanks

Well, many opinions have already been expressed here, but no-one has asked why you feel the need to replace whatever carb is there now!

So, please tell us why (what's wrong and current engine specs and carb you have now) and what you want to accomplish (goal of all changes) . . . uh, don't fix things that aint broke!

[2 Fast 4 U]

That's right Otto, I've always had a Solex carb on my Opels and never had any problems, the only problems i have with a carb is the Weber on my wife's Volvo , can't get the @#*%$#@ thing adjusted so it will idle steady , why can't you adjust the idle on the Weber, like with the Solex?? I find the Webers A BIG PITA .
I'm going to see if I can change the Weber for a Solex, the base is the same, I made a new heat isolator and put in some longer headless bolts to fasten the Solex to the Volvo intake manifold, haven't done any work on it for a while because of other chores around the house.

[Anonymous D]

Originally Posted by 2 Fast 4 U " . . . I've always had a Solex carb on my Opels and never had any problems, the only problems i have with a carb is the Weber on my wife's Volvo , can't get the @#*%$#@ thing adjusted so it will idle steady , why can't you adjust the idle on the Weber, like with the Solex?? I find the Webers A BIG PITA ."

Variables that affect the operation of a carburetor on an Opel, include the climate, gasoline formulations, and service instructions.

Examples of why Solexes have problems on Opels in the US, include the hotter climate (causes warping of base plates and internal air metering passages), fuel blends (they not only vary by octane and region, but in some areas also by season), and factory guide specifications (which among other things, state on page #6E-50 (of the 1973 factory manual) that you should use #J-23951 "water manometer" tool for adjustment).

Because so many Opel owners have experienced problems with Solexes (including "fuel dumping"), I feel it's irresponsible (especially to casual or "newbie" readers) to not recommend that they install a Weber carburetor (which is tunable, by a simple, 2-screw, idle speed and mixture adjustment process). I'm not alone in this opinion, as back in the 1980's the State of California itself declared the Solex carb a "gross polluter" on Opels, and recommended a replacement Weber installation as a remedy.

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by Anonymous D Because so many Opel owners have experienced problems with Solexes (including "fuel dumping"), I feel it's irresponsible (especially to casual or "newbie" readers) to not recommend that they install a Weber carburetor (which is tunable, by a simple, 2-screw, idle speed and mixture adjustment process). I'm not alone in this opinion, as back in the 1980's the State of California itself declared the Solex carb a "gross polluter" on Opels, and recommended a replacement Weber installation as a remedy.

The other side of the coin is that it's irresponsible to include a costly replacement to a newbie or unknowledgable person when what they have is probably a better alternative to repair then to just replace. Replacement is always an option. California probably has company stock in weber

[wrench459]

Didn't weber base its downdraft carbs on the solex.?
not to muddy the waters any...

[Cruz]

Hey Dennis Texas I woulds love to have a copy of your haynes manual.... I am still working on an issue of the throttle shafts of the weber..... just trying to see if it is feasible to place new throttle shaft bushings in the body or just replace the carb.... I have already tried the bearings that bigjim sells ..... but still have the dreaded throttle shaft vacuum leaks on 3 different carbs.........
cruz@cruzin-i-5.com
Thanks

[Anonymous D]

At ~$4/gallon, a Solex that dumps gas will cost more than it's worth!
(And Webers can be bought used; you just have to work harder to get a good one at a fair price, and accept a less precise driving response than you will get from a new Weber).

[deaner]

Originally Posted by Anonymous D At ~$4/gallon, a Solex that dumps gas will cost more than it's worth!

The secret is to not let it dump gas. A proper set up Solex will get a lot better gas milage than the Weber. It has a smaller primary Venturi. Therefore will deliver better around town gas milage. Granted Solex is a difficult carb to set up. But does work real well. It takes a great deal of patience to rebuild and blueprint a Solex. They do work.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by deaner The secret is to not let it dump gas. A proper set up Solex will get a lot better gas milage than the Weber. It has a smaller primary Venturi. Therefore will deliver better around town gas milage. Granted Solex is a difficult carb to set up. But does work real well. It takes a great deal of patience to rebuild and blueprint a Solex. They do work.

Though both progressive Solex/Weber carbs' primary bores are the same, 32mm, main venturis (chokes) are 24mm, Solex vs. 27mm, Weber. Secondary bore/venturi are 32mm/28mm, Solex vs. 36mm/28mm, Weber . . .

. . . easy to see why Solex has much better gas mileage, also easy to see that Weber flows considerably more air/fuel, ideal stoichiometric ratio being the same for both!

[Dale .D]

Originally Posted by kwilford IMHO, the order of preference: 1) Solex: only if you are lucky enough to have one that isn't worn out, or are capable of magic where most of us are mere mortals 2) Weber DF Series (DFM, DFAV, etc) or Holley Weber: Dave speaks the truth about the reversed linkage and is justified in his caution about the reversed primary possibly causing a lean condition. That said, the linkage can be quite readily modified by rotating the last link to rotate the opposite direction, fabricating a quite simple off-set pin at the carb bracket, and the mixture can be modified somewhat by jetting. And this is NOT hearsay, as I ran a Weber 32DFM for about four years and over 50,000 mile very nicely, with no ill effects, and it ran a HELL of a lot better than with the Solex 3) Weber 32/36 DG Series (DGV, DGAV, DGEV): The carb of choice, but it STILL requires proper jetting, or it is a waste of time. 4) Weber 38DGAS (or 38DPS100, which is the manual choke version): Great carb, can be used with ANY 1.9 IF properly jetted, but better suited for a higher output engine 5) Weber (or Dell'Orto or Solex or Mikuni) Side-draft, Single first then Dual: Many have found the SSD (Single Side Draft) to be the BEST carb, once jetted correctly, but if you want the ultimate in power and boasting ability, the DSD (Dual Side Draft) is the way to go 6) Fuel Injection: Ultimately, carbs are seldom as good as a properly designed and installed electronic fuel injection system, but that is the topic of a different Forum HTH

Eh Keith . Hope the snow has stopped!! My 1.9 running failrly well now with all the vacuum & exhaust leaks fixed. as well with new 32/36 electric choke weber. No new jetting though. Would Really like to know how better it could run if it was jetted properly. Gave all the best issues of (all these jets) to 2 local mechanical shops & neither of them would touch it. This stuff is beyond my capability. Hopefully one day i'll find someone that really know these things. Doing the tacoma meet in july. Any chance you're going. A little far for you. Just a ferry ride & an hr driving for me. Anyway, take care. Dale

[West Coast GT]

Originally Posted by Dale .D ... No new jetting though. Would Really like to know how better it could run if it was jetted properly. Gave all the best issues of (all these jets) to 2 local mechanical shops & neither of them would touch it. This stuff is beyond my capability. Hopefully one day i'll find someone that really know these things. Doing the tacoma meet in july ...

Is anyone with good Weber knowledge going to Tacoma in July? Any chance of scheduling a Weber and/or Solex clinic?

We'll need the 1st part on Saturday for a 1/2 hour classroom and sales session, with the second on Sunday to allow us to perform the rebuild / re-jetting during the night. Sunday's session would be setting installing, setup, and tuning the carbs.

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by Dale .D Eh Keith . Hope the snow has stopped!! My 1.9 running fairly well now with all the vacuum & exhaust leaks fixed. as well with new 32/36 electric choke weber. No new jetting though. Would Really like to know how better it could run if it was jetted properly. Gave all the best issues of (all these jets) to 2 local mechanical shops & neither of them would touch it. This stuff is beyond my capability. Hopefully one day I'll find someone that really know these things. Doing the Tacoma meet in July. Any chance you're going. A little far for you. Just a ferry ride & an hr driving for me. Anyway, take care. Dale

Good old Calgary: 6 inches of snow ten days ago, and blistering hot this weekend
I'll admit I haven't re-jetted a Weber in about twenty years. It is apparently easier to do when you have an engine that runs. Or a car to put it in for that matter But the theory is pretty simple, or better still, just read the thread "All These Jets" and use that as a starting point.
As for Tacoma, Myrna and I actually went in 2004. Mary Lawson (aka MawOpel) and the other Tacoma crew were very friendly, and we had a lovely time. It's not nearly as big a deal as the California OMC Picnics (which we went to in 2003 and 2005), but still WAY more Opels than I would ever see in Calgary. Gil and Dennis of OGTS were there, as was Paul Heebink (of Arizona), and a few other notable Opelers, most notably Todd Martin of Opels Unreachable and his bevy of Groupies (!!!). Heck, I won an Ascona windshield as a door prize, which made from some interesting packing in my Lexus IS300. Alas, life is a bit too busy and such to make it this year, but maybe someday in the future...

[BQS4]

I have taken a few webers apart on the bench (doesn't make me an expert by any means) But, you can leave the carb on the car and remove the top very easily. Then your jets and all are right there, and they are removed with a small screw driver. The best thing to do is, take the top off, then make a drawing of the carb as to where the various jets are located. Then mark the drawing with YOUR jets numbers (they're all etched with a number) then read the thread that Keith linked to and buy a few jets in the direction you want to head. Then swap them out, re-tune to your liking and take a few test drives. If what you put in does nothing or hurts the driving, go to the next size up or down on the jets. Even RallyBob will tell you this. Then you will eventually arrive at the combo that works best for your driving style, and your area of driving.

[bigjim5551212]

With regards to the wear on the throttle shafts on a DGAV or DGV series, our bearing kit usually takes care of the problem. The throttle shaft sometimes is worn but they can be replaced.

The plastic bushing in the cavity where the throttle shaft is, does nothing other than acting as a semi seal. A rough spring loaded plastic piece is not an o-ring or lip seal. Our bearing at least lines up the shaft and controls the vacuum leaks. If you put our bearing in a new carburetor, you should never have a problem.

Other than the throttle shaft, the other problem you should watch for is corrosion in the float bowl. Sometimes varnish builds in the idle passages. The plugs can be taken out and shot can be reinstalled after cleaning.

[davegt27]

can anyone post typical prices for 32/36 Weber

I found a few in my garage that I want to get rid off

thanks
Davegt27

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by davegt27 can anyone post typical prices for 32/36 Weber I found a few in my garage that I want to get rid off thanks Davegt27

About like solex's if they're getting in you way I'll pay the shipping just to keep you from throwing them away.

Manual choke carbs $40 & up
Electric & Water choke carbs $75 & up

I've seen them go for close to $200 and lower than the prices I mentioned. I'll be interested to see what others say.

Harold