Cutting valve cover to adjust valves

[just4fun]

Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to adjust my valves and I picked up a 3rd valve cover that I can convert so it doesn't make such a mess when the motor is running. I've searched the forum and couldn't find any pictures of how I should cut\modify the valve cover. Anybody have pics or info?

[opelnut10]

Originally Posted by just4fun Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to adjust my valves and I picked up a 3rd valve cover that I can convert so it doesn't make such a mess when the motor is running. I've searched the forum and couldn't find any pictures of how I should cut\modify the valve cover. Anybody have pics or info?

If you are going to cut the valve cover to use while adjusting your valves be sure to leave enough to cover the timing chain. Cut it as high up as you can and use it only at idle. It is still going to make a mess, just not as big

[BQS4]

Does this help? The extra cutting by the cap is for access to the very front rocker nut with a 15mm deepwell socket. Basically, I cut out the square area where the "OPEL" is, then as far forward as I could and the aforementioned notch....

[just4fun]

Thank you! That's the exact area I was thinking needed to be cut but wasn't sure. I'll power up the air compressor!

[krewzer]

That's the least messy solution. The easiest, is to cut the front of the cover off, back just far enough to cover the timing chain, and be able to get to the rocker nuts. Then you only have to use the front bolts for the cover. The cover in the previous pic looked to be a steel cover. I had several aluminum spares, so I cut one.

Wes

[GTJIM]

Just adjust the valve clearances for both hydraulic and solid lifter cams the way Opel advises - with the motor STOPPED!

Hydraulics can be set with motor hot or cold - solids at operating temp.

Much less messy - and Opel 'approved'!

[2 Fast 4 U]

Originally Posted by GTJIM Just adjust the valve clearances for both hydraulic and solid lifter cams the way Opel advises - with the motor STOPPED! Hydraulics can be set with motor hot or cold - solids at operating temp. Much less messy - and Opel 'approved'!

I've never seen that stated in any book, can you post a copy of that Jim??

[Phoenix]

Originally Posted by krewzer That's the least messy solution. The easiest, is to cut the front of the cover off, back just far enough to cover the timing chain, and be able to get to the rocker nuts. Then you only have to use the front bolts for the cover. The cover in the previous pic looked to be a steel cover. I had several aluminum spares, so I cut one. Wes

I wouldn't mind seeing a pic of an aluminum cover that you had cut down. Seen my uncles steel one in action.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by just4fun Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to adjust my valves and I picked up a 3rd valve cover that I can convert so it doesn't make such a mess when the motor is running. I've searched the forum and couldn't find any pictures of how I should cut\modify the valve cover. Anybody have pics or info?

. . . in lieu of restating the obvious, I'll just repeat the following . . .

Originally Posted by tekenaar, 01-23-07 First, I have never understood the need for adjusting valves with the engine running . . . Top Fuel drag racers with 8,000+HP engines check and adjust valves between rounds statically, engine not running . . . good enough for them and, as long as the engine is already at operating temperature, good enough for me. Second, I have always adjusted valves in pairs: #1 cylinder at firing TDC, I/E valves for that cylinder; rotate crank 180° (half turn), same for #3 cylinder; rotate crank 180° (half turn), same for #4 cylinder; rotate crank 180° (half turn), same for #2 cylinder . . . that's it! Has worked for me since mid '50s . . .