replacing the rear main seal

billiard13 · 08-13-2004

Heya folks, quick question before I get started on this project of replacing the rear main seal.

Will I have to remove the crank to change it or can I just remove the rear flange and change the seal without removing the entire crank?

This is a 1.9 out of a GT.

Thanks for any help and/or input!

Claud

GTJIM · 08-13-2004

The seal can be replaced without removing the crank - or even dropping the sump. It is covered in the Factory Service Manual.

A good tip from the FSM is:

3)Punch a hole into the oil seal and screw in a sheet metal screw ( "PK" screw ) and pull out the oil seal.

HTH

billiard13 · 08-13-2004

Thanks Jim!

nobody · 08-13-2004

Something that is not in the FSM on that is to be sure you use a very small amout of RTV on both sides where the bearing cap and block meet. This is a classic oil leak area and even if you pull the pan and cap you would need to do it. HTH

soybean · 08-13-2004

Very timely tip as I am about to replace both front and rear mains. OGTS recommends exactly what Grant says as well. Jarrell

nobody · 08-13-2004

Soybean on the front you need to be a bit careful that it is very square to the housing and crank or it can have a funny effect of pulling things in instead of keeping them out. You can also not seat it fully but real close to get around a worn front pully or do the OGTS sleeve on it. On either one you need to use alot of lube to keep from hardening the seal lips on initial start up. JM2CW

soybean · 08-13-2004

Thanks Grant, I also ordered the sleeve that OGTS sells in case I need it. Jarrell

GTJIM · 08-14-2004

One of the wee tricks Iwas taught many years ago was to use double lipped seals on crankshafts (so one lip keeps the oil in and the other the junk out) and smear some GP grease around the groove between the lips on the seal to provide start-up and ongoing lubrication for both lips of the seal.

BTW: the thin steel sleeves that go on to the crank pulley seal area work like magic to repair the grooved ring that old seals wear. They are designed to go tightly over the old pulley snout and are also designed to go through the standard size seal - they are quite thin and just stretch the seal a wee bit bigger on the inside dimension. I supose one could be used at the clutch end of the cranksaft too but I have not done so and just had that thought......

08-13-2004	#1 (permalink)
billiard13 I finally own an Opel! Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Knoxville Posts: 105	replacing the rear main seal Heya folks, quick question before I get started on this project of replacing the rear main seal. Will I have to remove the crank to change it or can I just remove the rear flange and change the seal without removing the entire crank? This is a 1.9 out of a GT. Thanks for any help and/or input! Claud

08-13-2004	#2 (permalink)
GTJIM Old Opeler Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,686	Can be Done! The seal can be replaced without removing the crank - or even dropping the sump. It is covered in the Factory Service Manual. A good tip from the FSM is: 3)Punch a hole into the oil seal and screw in a sheet metal screw ( "PK" screw ) and pull out the oil seal. HTH __________________ GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved

08-14-2004	#8 (permalink)
GTJIM Old Opeler Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,686	Initial Lube One of the wee tricks Iwas taught many years ago was to use double lipped seals on crankshafts (so one lip keeps the oil in and the other the junk out) and smear some GP grease around the groove between the lips on the seal to provide start-up and ongoing lubrication for both lips of the seal. BTW: the thin steel sleeves that go on to the crank pulley seal area work like magic to repair the grooved ring that old seals wear. They are designed to go tightly over the old pulley snout and are also designed to go through the standard size seal - they are quite thin and just stretch the seal a wee bit bigger on the inside dimension. I supose one could be used at the clutch end of the cranksaft too but I have not done so and just had that thought...... __________________ GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved

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08-13-2004	#3 (permalink)
billiard13 I finally own an Opel! Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Knoxville Posts: 105	Thanks Jim!

08-13-2004	#4 (permalink)
nobody No Access Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: in transit Posts: 3,873	Something that is not in the FSM on that is to be sure you use a very small amout of RTV on both sides where the bearing cap and block meet. This is a classic oil leak area and even if you pull the pan and cap you would need to do it. HTH

08-13-2004	#5 (permalink)
soybean Moderator Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Reidsville N.C. Posts: 2,160	Very timely tip as I am about to replace both front and rear mains. OGTS recommends exactly what Grant says as well. Jarrell

08-13-2004	#6 (permalink)
nobody No Access Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: in transit Posts: 3,873	Soybean on the front you need to be a bit careful that it is very square to the housing and crank or it can have a funny effect of pulling things in instead of keeping them out. You can also not seat it fully but real close to get around a worn front pully or do the OGTS sleeve on it. On either one you need to use alot of lube to keep from hardening the seal lips on initial start up. JM2CW

08-13-2004	#7 (permalink)
soybean Moderator Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Reidsville N.C. Posts: 2,160	Thanks Grant, I also ordered the sleeve that OGTS sells in case I need it. Jarrell

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