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#51 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan, USA
Posts: 1,794
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I'll have to get one or the other, which was it stock I wonder? preformed hoses I'd imagine.
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"Being ignorant is not so much a shame, as being unwilling to learn." Benjamin Franklin Last edited by jvandyke; 02-21-2007 at 01:52 AM. |
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#52 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reidsville N.C.
Posts: 2,160
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I used the pre-formed hose, I believe it was off a Ford product. I took the old hose with me to match the Id of the hose, went to Advance Auto and got them to let me look through their assortment of hoses until I found the right one. I believe I trimed about an inch off each end and it's worked so far. Hth, Jarrell
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You lose your dreams, you lose your mind. (The Rolling Stones) |
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#53 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan, USA
Posts: 1,794
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Any more info? I don't have an old one to go by?....
Don't bother. I just did the same thing (looked through the rack at an Autozone) and picked one that looked like it should fit. If not, I'll go back and try another.
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"Being ignorant is not so much a shame, as being unwilling to learn." Benjamin Franklin Last edited by jvandyke; 02-21-2007 at 12:19 PM. |
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#54 (permalink) | |
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Opeler
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan, USA
Posts: 1,794
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"Being ignorant is not so much a shame, as being unwilling to learn." Benjamin Franklin Last edited by tekenaar; 02-22-2007 at 12:23 PM. |
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#55 (permalink) |
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Detritus Maximus
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: St. Louis MO
Posts: 1,160
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At least you know that much. A leak is much worse than no heat.
On my car, the hose coming out of the thermostat housing runs back along the head, around the carb, and back up to the heater control valve. I think this is how Opel used to run them. I found that making that 90 degree turn put a heater hose right under the fuel bowl or fuel line.
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"No, it's not fiberglass." "No, the motor is not in the back." "No, your friend in high school did not 'peg' his speedometer." |
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#56 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan, USA
Posts: 1,794
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nearly done: everything in and working (except stereo....?? dead??)
dash, clock even works now -different thread, windshield back in, car run coolant capped off. Cool. tonight; button up interior and well, drive it?? Wow, first real "work" on the GT, baptism by fire I hope. Kinda surprised it works. I did rig the electric fuel pump to the rear defroster switch. Works fine. Fan motor, both speeds, no hideous noise. Both side vents fixed and re-ducted. Heater valve seems to be set up decently pics later. Thanks all. Not an easy intro to GT mechanics but so far I've not made anything worse, well beside the stereo is DOA where it worked before.
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"Being ignorant is not so much a shame, as being unwilling to learn." Benjamin Franklin Last edited by jvandyke; 02-23-2007 at 12:13 AM. |
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#58 (permalink) |
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Army Opeler
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Jonesboro, GA
Posts: 89
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replacing heater control valve
trying to replace the old one with a metal one and need to get the knobs off so i can slide the arms out of the old one. what deal with the devil do i have to agree to, to get these things off?
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#59 (permalink) |
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Opel Key Master
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,296
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Heater Control plate
You are talking about the control plate and knobs I assume, these are easy, take a mini flat blade screwdriver and you will see underneath the knobs there are holes where set screws are in. Simply unscrew set screw a bit, and they slide right off
Keith
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Questions or comments to the Project: Restoration of a GT series 2 -post here http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-gt...eries-2-a.html |
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