Another Group Buy: Head Gaskets and Head Bolts (Place your Order Here)

[nobody]

once the block is bored more than 50 over a 2.0 head gasket is needed, the one in mine was backordered for about a month from OGTS before I got it. 65 bucks on top of 125 or 50 and 50. Ya I'll take 100 bucks for a gasket set instead of 190 any day. I reseach all the prices and dive on the deals. I don't have 9 exhaust flanges and looking at 5 head sets cuz I can't see a deal or know I'll be building more motors. Shoot I've got 3 motors in the works now.

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by asdasc Quick Keith, I would choose door # 2!

Sure, assuming he meant a CAR part

Originally Posted by asdasc The more I thought about the other question, I am not sure I even asked the right question. It is a stock 2.0 head, on a 1.9 block bored out to use the Opel 2.0 pistons.

You use a head gasket with a cylinder sealing ring sized to match the cylinder bore. A stock 1.9 (up to the allowable 0.040" overbore) is 93 mm (94 mm at max overbore), so that would call for the 1.9 head gasket, which has a sealing ring approximately 95 mm ID. The 2.0/2.2/2.4 are all 95 mm bore (96 mm at 40 over), which calls for the later 2.0/2.2/2.4 head gasket that has a 97 mm ring ID. The head itself doesn't create the need for a bigger or smaller head gasket, UNLESS the squish area has been opened up bigger than 93 mm. Which would provide a pretty low compression ratio, so that is unlikely.

Originally Posted by asdasc Is there any other difference between a 1970 1.9 L block bored to 2.0 and a stock 2.0 L block? Under what circumstances can I just call it a 2.0 L block and save the long description?

I believe that the 1.9 and 2.0 blocks are identical. However, the 2.2/2.4 block is QUITE different than the 1.9/2.0, in both external looks (the later blocks have four expansion plugs along the drivers side) and internally (to clear the larger stoke crank.

HTH

[GTJIM]

Originally Posted by kwilford I believe that the 1.9 and 2.0 blocks are identical. However, the 2.2/2.4 block is QUITE different than the 1.9/2.0, in both external looks (the later blocks have four expansion plugs along the drivers side) and internally (to clear the larger stoke crank. HTH

The head surface of the blocks have the same (or very similar!) configuration with the head bolt holes in the same pattern and the same bore centre to centre distance. The front cover has the same shape BUT the 1966-71 cover is shorter and needs a head gasket with a special thick bit of cork up front. The later front covers have two 8mm cap screws that thread down into them and their head gaskets have a different shape to accommodate these two bolts.
However a late head (with the two extra holes) can be used with an early front cover or late front cover can be used with and early head. Also, if decking the block remember to have the front cover attached so it will be cut to the right height too!
Firts - match the gasket to the front cover (due to the height difference) then to the bore size. An early front cover can be used with any late head but extra sheet gasket material must be added to fill up the gap between the head and the front cover. Just leave the front bolts out in this case - there is no where to thread them in to anyway!
With an early head on a late front cover just fill the threaded holes with RTV.

All 1.9 gaskets are not created equal - some have slightly larger cylinder holes and can be used on the 2.0 litre 95mm bore but the sealing ring does get close to the edge and it is safer to use a 2.0 gasket (or 2.2 or 2.4 - as they share the 95mm bore size with the 2.0). Remember that the gasket "squashes" out when torqued down so if measuring the opening in a new 1.9 gasket it needs to be close to 96mm before it can be used on a 95mm (2.0; 2.2; 2.4 ) bore.

[asdasc]

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

That is a ton of info. So it seems that to get a 2.0L head gasket, they were only made for 83-88, so that is what I would be looking for.

Since you are all out of them, I will call Gil and order one.

Thanks again for the help!

[kwilford]

Jim raises an important point. The version of timing chain case you have (not the block or head) dictates whether you need the extra gasket layer at the front of the head gasket, to seal the case to the underside of the head. If you have an early chain case (pre-'72, with the 10 bolt head, no extra holes in the case), it sits a bit below the head surface, which is what the gasket fills in. If you have it bored out to require the 2.0 head gasket, you will need to add the extra gasket layer, because they do not come that way. Most folks just copy an old gasket, or peel it off an older style 1.9 head gasket, and glue in place.
HTH

[asdasc]

I am kinda liking the idea of just machining some off the top of the block to increase compression and not have to mess with the gasket!

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by asdasc I am kinda liking the idea of just machining some off the top of the block to increase compression and not have to mess with the gasket!

Now you are getting into more than just head gasket selection. MUCH more!

Like cam timing, chain length, piston clearance and so on. Not to mention chain case height. I suggest that you hit the search button and look for terms such as "decking" and "Block surfacing" to see what the issues are. Then start a new thread for any questions left unanswered.

[nobody]

If you go down to your local auto supply place they normally stock 1/8 inch cork gasket material, darn near every store on earth sells rubber cement. Now all you need is a heavy object and some wax paper helps. A sharp pair of scissors or shoot, I think even fingernail clippers will finish it off.

Cork gasket 5
rubber cement 1.5
wax paper 1.5
something sharp...well lets just say if your building a motor 0

There you go, a new 2.0 head gasket to fit with a 10 bolt setup.

Oh and most households have rubber cement and waxed paper so scratch those costs.

[asdasc]

Hi Keith and Dave,

I have already read up a ton on the decking, and know about many of the issues. But as you say, there are still a ton of questions. We are getting off post, I think, so I will start another thread on it. That is good info on the cork addition to the gasket. I would not have known about it. I *think* I would have noticed the issue and asked questions while putting the engine together, but you never know. And it will be nice knowing about it going in!

Thanks again and have a safe, HAPPY NEW YEAR!

[nobody]

For those of you that haven't seen the head sets, you don't know what your missing. Carb, intake/ exhaust with a new nylon cam bolt. Water gaskets and all. Valve seals too.

Math quiz time. OGTS sells the cam bolts for around 15 and alot of gasket kits don't include all the carb gaskets so add another 10. OGTS 2.0 ones are 65 just for the head gasket. Hell a 2.2 exhaust gasket is 20 bucks. Wow how timely too since I have 1 motor in house and one in Utah getting built.

Keith, I don't know what to say other than what a find and great shipping and cost.

I forgot part of the math quiz, header capable exhaust gasket is usually seperate for another 25 bucks.

So an additional 100 over the price of a gasket set just to go 2.0. Anybody doing a motor rebuild should be seriousely concidering the options to drop prices.

[nobody]

I think I get it now.

When Bob did the exhaust flanges they were a hard sell and now everybody is searching for one.

Next will be dirrt cheap gasket sets that are being hunted for.