Geo Metro Mastercylinder Replacement

[blancojp]

It's an imput rod.

The actuator is made out of aluminum. You might have the brake booster rod stuck in it.

Check it against the picture at the top of this thread. I do however have several of them so I can trade it out if you got the wrong part.

[opeler69]

what year is the Honda master cylinder from?

[blancojp]

what year is the Honda master cylinder from?

'90s Honda civic without ABS

[opelwasp]

1) The first thing to do is to cut the nipple on the brake booster internal rod. Secure the rod with a needle nose pliers and using a dremel tool, cut the tip off which should shorten the internal rod about 1/4".

I'm not too keen on grinding in the brake booster. I think I'll just make a 1/4" spacer instead.

[blancojp]

I'm not too keen on grinding in the brake booster. I think I'll just make a 1/4" spacer instead.

You can do it any which way as long as the M/C does not have preload and it sits securely on the booster.

[Phoenix]

I've had to grind off a little more than 1/4 in. I've almost finished the swap. Got a bad MC.

I got another 4 inch barke line and a coupler and ran the line up to the top of the MC.

[blancojp]

I've had to grind off a little more than 1/4 in. I've almost finished the swap. Got a bad MC.

I got another 4 inch barke line and a coupler and ran the line up to the top of the MC.

I did not know which booster you ended up choosing so I sent you two turn buckles. One is for the E30 booster and the other is for the Geo booster. They are self explanatory so I will not insult you by giving you instructions on how to use them.

I will be around all this week in case you need any help or parts.

[opelspyder]

JB,
Pertaining to this mod, I like the idea of the Geo Booster and cylinder mounted to the firewall mod. I know you have mentioned about 3 combos to do this mod, such as honda cyl, or Suzuki "Booster. I am looking into a front/rear big disc brake setup which will have Wilwood brakes 4 pot on front and possibly the same on the rear. Would this booster/cyl on any of these be a suitable candidate for these. Which in your opinion would be the best application, or could you suggest something else. Thanks in advance
Keith

[blancojp]

JB,
Pertaining to this mod, I like the idea of the Geo Booster and cylinder mounted to the firewall mod. I know you have mentioned about 3 combos to do this mod, such as honda cyl, or Suzuki "Booster. I am looking into a front/rear big disc brake setup which will have Wilwood brakes 4 pot on front and possibly the same on the rear. Would this booster/cyl on any of these be a suitable candidate for these. Which in your opinion would be the best application, or could you suggest something else. Thanks in advance
Keith

For this type of application you would need to provide 1100psi front / 770psi rear. I would use Honda Prelude 0.81" thick rotors on all four corners, a CP 7/8" master cylinder and a universal 8" double diaphragm booster.

The CP master cylinder has adjustable proportional and bias valves built in. It can be fine tuned to any bias up to a 5000lbs car. It also has 4 outlet ports, one per caliper if necessary. They are made of aluminum and cost about $125. The booster is a standard hot rod issue which you can buy all day long on ebay for about $90.

You can also use the Geo master cylinder with a proportional valve for the rear with good results. But I would use a Suzuki Esteem 9" booster instead of the 7" that comes in the Geo. This will give you a better pedal feel and less effort to make it stop. The Opel master cylinder will work well but you will need to remove the 10lb residual valve from the rear circuit, install a proportional valve for the rear and use a BMW E30 booster from an early ('80s) 325I.

The best, less expensive and optimal setup would be for you to run a second line to the rear and make each caliper independent. Then use a Honda Prelude booster, non-abs master cylinder and proportional block from a 4-wheel disk car. You can pick up the complete setup from a salvage yard for about $75 and will make you car stop on a dime.

What are you going to use for an E-brake?

[opelspyder]

I am contiplating buying a full kit from Precision brakes such as Frankdatank did with his, but I like the thought of having the booster on the firewall and such. The kit will come with what I need for the cable, but I may have to use a Lokar unit as well. If you think the Geo cyl with the Suzuki booster would do the trick, I will probably opt to do that. Does the CP cylinder adapt to these boosters. Also what is CP?
Keith

[blancojp]

I am contiplating buying a full kit from Precision brakes such as Frankdatank did with his, but I like the thought of having the booster on the firewall and such. The kit will come with what I need for the cable, but I may have to use a Lokar unit as well. If you think the Geo cyl with the Suzuki booster would do the trick, I will probably opt to do that. Does the CP cylinder adapt to these boosters. Also what is CP?
Keith

The CPP (sorry I left a P out) master cylinder should be mounted with a standard GM style booster. I will have almost the same 4-wheel disk setup on Stealth and I am using the Geo/Esteem combo.

Check the info on the master at:

Disc Brake, Steering and Suspension Products for classic Chevy and Ford cars and trucks

[opelspyder]

Was the Suzuki Esteem booster from a 2000 model as well?
Keith

[blancojp]

Was the Suzuki Esteem booster from a 2000 model as well?
Keith

Yes, 2000 model.

When you install this booster, you have to massage the well area to accomodate. Also, you need to create a 1/4" spacer which goes between the booster and the bulk head. You can live without it but the spacer gives you some lead way in adjusting the pedal rod otherwise you would have only 1/16" adjustment.

This is a great little booster, it is cheap and gives you 530Lbs of assist (stock is 320Lbs) with the Opel pedal ratio. It also had a built in check valve so all you need is a hose to vacuum and you are done.

There is a picture of this installation and the pedal mods needed I believe on the Stealth folder.

[Phoenix]

I found out yesterday that Dorman has discontinued the master cylinder repair kit for the Geo Metro. The only other repair kit that I see easily available is the Raybestos one but it is more expensive.

[Phoenix]

Saw these pics today.

[blancojp]

Saw these pics today.

I believe I sold him that kit, not sure since I have sold a few to different memebers.

[rskdsk]

Is the Geo Metro still the best alternative out there? What year? Also, does the booster mount to the stock gt. IE rod, holes, etc... My booster has fluid in it ,,, can I just drain and reuse with the new MC.

[opelgtdvr]

Hey Guys...I Installed the GEO Booster/Master cylinder a couple of years ago and it worked out perfectly, actually looks like it belongs in the car..reworking the brake peddle plunger was a little more involved as it took some modification which required welding to adapt the adjusting nut..I believe that I have some pics in this forum if you're interested...again, I couldn't be more pleased with the installation and operation..added bonus is the whole M/C and booster is so much lighter than stock...good luck

[blancojp]

Hey Guys...I Installed the GEO Booster/Master cylinder a couple of years ago and it worked out perfectly, actually looks like it belongs in the car..reworking the brake peddle plunger was a little more involved as it took some modification which required welding to adapt the adjusting nut..I believe that I have some pics in this forum if you're interested...again, I couldn't be more pleased with the installation and operation..added bonus is the whole M/C and booster is so much lighter than stock...good luck

Glad to hear all went well with the install.
I have over 100 of these installed so far in different vehicles, all working better than expected.

[rskdsk]

well, since I do not have a welder handy ... I guess doing the geo booster and mc will not be an option for me. I'll just have to order the stock replacement parts. I wonder if I can just remove and clean the booster ... or is it finished. Is the booster hard to remove? It seems like 4 bolts. I am guessing that I'd have to discontect the rod as well ... at the adjuster?