Any Interest in RallyBob Fabricated Parts?

[kwilford]

Here's another idea I came up with last night. What about a 'kit' that would allow you to increase the displacement of your 1.9? Thoughts? Bob

Good idea. It occurs to me that your speciality could be assembling and selling "kits" of the required parts, with some specific machining done by you or yours, that would allow various levels of performance (say "Stage I or Stage II") to be added to Opel engines and suspensions. They would come with the basic required parts, and instructions, illustrations and specifications (the RallyBob advantage) to allow proper final machining and assembly.

For example, in the engine upgrade described above, Stage I would use aftermarket rods and pistons from some other make (Neon, Honda or Ford rods, SBC 305 pistons) machined to purpose. They could be high quality, but the input cost would be less than custom machined pieces, and buying in "bulk" (pistons and such come typically in sets of 8) would further reduce the input costs. Stage II would be higher quality and higher performance rods and pistons. The kit cost could vary according to how HiPo the owner wanted (less for hyper-eutectic pistons, more for forged; more for lightened rods, less for off-the shelf; less for standard rings, more for thinner, gap-less rings; and so forth)
Maybe the "kit" could just include the pistons, pins, rings and rods and the rod bearings (or at least use rods that have rod bearings readily available), and the crank could be off-set ground locally (the kit would provide detailed specs and directions) and underground as required for main journal wear. Crank off-set grinding (if done to a "spec") is probably within the capacity of most competent machine shops, while "stroking" (welding and re-grinding) is NOT (John Warga has been waiting 6 months for his 2.4 crank). Most folks already have a crank, so this would save the crank shipping back and forth (and make use of existing cranks). Balancing would also have to be done locally, but then it could be done with the flywheel and clutch assembly.

So that would constitute a "block" kit. Then, you provide upgraded (by level of HiPo) "valve kit" options (2.0 valves, SBC valves, or Ti valves) with accompanying inserts, springs, retainers and keepers, with machining done locally, again to the RallyBob spec (which could instructions on various levels of porting, un-shrouding, etc.).

Then intake kit options such as a Legere Torquer Intake for either DGV or DGAS, or EFI options. These are small enough items to ship that intakes could be exchanged on a "core" basis.

Then suspensions. Adjustable panhard rods. Heim jointed sway bars. Reinforced control arms. Fiberglass transverse leafs and shackle kits. and more.

Just a thought...

[nobody]

Way back when I first started doing the high perf 1.9s I liked the upgrades you could get off the shelf from Smitty and then Bob. I ordered alot then since it was a package like the big spring kit with the titanium retainers. Very nice setup by the way and I'd go there in a heartbeat. I like OGTS for the availability of the stock parts that are required to keep it running. I buy From unlimited since he has alot of items that are a bit hard to get. When I got back into the Opels after a few years off I found that C&R was not around for the high perf stuff. It's been a pain to piece meal some things together that used to be a mail order item. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I miss C&R for the reasons I've stated. I for one would like to see it revived under any name and pull out an old catalog and look to see what you might want to add or delete from it. I'd hope that Gary would help with the launch of a business catering to the speed freaks in the crowd as there seem to be a few. Me personally I have the check book open and waiting for some prices and details.

[Francis]

Hey Bob,

BUT really kool would be to manufacture a heavy duty 16V conversion kit manufactured here in the US by the best at a reasonable price. And also offer a weld-in chassis stiffening support package.

I like the idea of the staged opel packages I, II, III - engine and suspension. I also find the recent post on the Megasquirt systems super interesting.

Building crated opel engines, say stage I, II and III (bottom end) with a client defined top end or fuel system, that might be interesting.

Or maybe a front suspension that will rid the Opel GT of understeer. I've heard of a rally guy in europe who says this is fairly easy but I'm still waiting on his response of how this is done. Widening the front track and Shortening the rear axle track? How effective would this be? How about a fresh packaged double unequal length a-arm with coil overs? Once the geometry is figured out and it's jigged up, with after market spindles, coil-overs, and brakes could be used it seems like it could be possible with stiffening up the front with a brace bar and some fabrication.

I think if you start up the madness with manufacturing and building opel systems, parts, engines again, and with the communication and greater involvement of the opel community(thanks you opelgt.com), maybe we can enjoy our cars a bit more and start putting the opels on the map here in the states.

I also posted the question below as a separate post:

1) Oh and a question for you[RALLY BOB] or anyone who might know ... what are the differences between the manta 400 phase I, II, III rear axles between themselves and then between the standard manta axles?

2) Also does phase I, II, III refer to the years or the level of modification?

3) Also how difficult would it be to adapt one of these rear ends to the Opel GT if you planned on the disc brake conversion (I'm pretty sure all the manta 400 rears have discs)?

4) I found someone who has one in europe and I'm waiting on a price. Any idea on how much they cost before I get surprised?

5) And, which of the manta 400 axles would be easiest to modify for the GT?

6) Do all the 400 rear axles have 75% locking big plate zf differential?

7) Any idea on the dimensions and pertinent locating points?

8) Do the manta 400 rear axles handle more power than the standard manta/gt rear? if so, how much can they handle?

9)how much more power can a opel gt rear end handle if a Quaife rear diff is used?

I know that's a bunch of questions but hopefully the knowledge bank will have some answers.

Take care and thanks guys,

Francis

[kwilford]

I think if a dialed-in monster motor, ready to drop into the Opel of your choice from Legere Motorsports Development were offered, the response would be impressive.

This idea reminds me of a fellow who has made a tidy living here in Calgary by providing performance enhancements for Lexus's (Lexi?) and Toyota Supra's, Reg Reimer of Reimer Consulting Technical Services, aka RCTS, http://www.monsterhorsepower.com/ . And a few other models, but that is his mainstay. He "tuned" my is300 for the sales manager at the Lexus dealer, who wanted a demo to show what could be done to these cars. When I bought it, I also had him install a set of TTE (Toyota Team Europe, www.TTE.de) performance springs. One of his specialities has been to install turbo and supercharger kits in is300's and Supra's. Neither of which have a large market penetration. But he knows his cars and customers well, and provides what they want. Some of it is ricer-type stuff, but he does quite well on the more extensive performance mods. I ran my is300 on the same track as his twin-turbo is300 this summer, and it was pretty awesome. He has also done an is430 (the Lexus V8 in place of the VVTi twin cam six) and a few other pretty neat cars.

Anyway, I digress, but here is my point. Reg and Bob aren't too dissimilar. Reg has had a love affair with a particular model (his is the Supra), and he wanted to build a life around it, and he has. Admittedly, the customer base for Lexi and Supra's are more extensive (and better heeled) than the Opel crowd, but the Calgary market is way smaller than the Internet-based Opel crowd. So maybe it evens out. Think of it. Would you rather own any old Opel, or one prepared by Legere Motorsport?

JM2CW

[N61WP]

Bob,

your engine kit idea sounds great....but a question,

Why, if your building a stoker crank, different rods and pistons, not take it out to the 2.4? Seems like more bang for the same buck.

Glad to hear you are thinking about getting back into it... even if not all the way....we (the community) really need you, especially since TGSI Bob doesn't seem to be involved here anymore.

James

[RallyBob]

BUT really kool would be to manufacture a heavy duty 16V conversion kit manufactured here in the US by the best at a reasonable price. And also offer a weld-in chassis stiffening support package.

Do you mean for a European Opel 16V engine? Or another non-Opel transplant?

Building crated opel engines, say stage I, II and III (bottom end) with a client defined top end or fuel system, that might be interesting.

I want to stay away from building complete engines. Dealing with cores, shipping issues, finding other 'good' parts such as timing covers and uncracked heads...is quite a nuisance, and difficult at best.

Or maybe a front suspension that will rid the Opel GT of understeer. I've heard of a rally guy in europe who says this is fairly easy but I'm still waiting on his response of how this is done. Widening the front track and Shortening the rear axle track? How effective would this be?

It works quite well, I've done this for years. I usually leave the rear axle width alone and just widen the front suspension track with spacers.

How about a fresh packaged double unequal length a-arm with coil overs? Once the geometry is figured out and it's jigged up, with after market spindles, coil-overs, and brakes could be used it seems like it could be possible with stiffening up the front with a brace bar and some fabrication.

I think though that this would be very expensive to do. It would need to be designed first, a prototype built, and thoroughly tested (I always tested my parts, for example the first set of roller rocker arms from 1992 were on two different race cars for 4 months before a set ever saw a street car...which ended up being my own car which covered 48,000 miles in two years with the roller rockers.) Once the testing was complete and changes made, jigs could be built and production suspensions made. But I can't see a 'from scratch' design being built for much less than $2k. So the market is again very small for this sort of thing.....maybe 1/2 dozen people would be legitimately interested.

Bob

[RallyBob]

Why, if your building a stoker crank, different rods and pistons, not take it out to the 2.4? Seems like more bang for the same buck.

Because the 2.1 litre can be built without having the crankshaft welded. The 2.4 requires welding, and in the long run you still have stock rods and stock 305 pistons, with a pretty lousy 1.55:1 rod ratio (compared to 1.833:1 stock and 1.935:1 for the 2.1)

The 2.1 could take anything you could dish out due to the better parts, and is probably a better engine overall. The 2.4 was something I just 'wanted to try', I never really expected anyone else to want to build one.

Also, if you put billet rods, forged pistons, and a welded/offset ground 2.4 crank together, it would definitely cost a bit more to build than the 2.1. I also suspect the 2.1 won't require any block grinding to deal with clearance issues.

On the other hand, if you already have a 2.2 crank and block, you could easily prep a package to take that engine out to 2403 cc's although the rod ratio wouldn't be quite as high (about 1.75:1).

Bob

[Francis]

Hey Bob,

Thanks for the reply ... I'm talking about the 16V Opel motors that people are putting into the GT and other earlier opels.

I heard allegations that there is a company that has this conversion kit in europe but it's expensive and not very stable or suitable because the chassis needs welded-in support and that it isn't really a complete kit - something to that effect and it's expensive ...

Francis

[RallyBob]

Well, if you want to buy me a 2.0 16V engine I'll engineer a kit to install it into a GT.....

Again, I think this is a very limited market item. It would make more sense to me to figure out how to put a 2.2 Ecotec into a GT....at least those are readily available in the US, all aluminum, and have some tech support over here in the US. We'll see....

Bob

[Francis]

Bob,

Ok here's another on the wish list. A complete turbocharger and or supercharger kit complete for the GT would be great - even if hood modification/heater box modification is necessary.

What to you think?

Francis

P.S. I was just putting Legere Motorsports on my wish list and then thought that if Bob started this he might not have as much time for our questions and him imparting his knowlege - oh no! Should we reconsider?

[baz]

francis the gt will flex like a piece of rubber with its on engine never mind the 16 valver (try opening a door and jack the car up @ one of the front jack points, then try to close the door)
it pays to at least seam weld the chassis rails in front and the sill/rocker area along
under the doors to get the ridgidity if you are putting a hi-power engine in

[Travis]

Some thoughts

underdrive crank pulley with a means to mount a toothed wheel

kit to mount ecotec motor(looks like you already thought of this one)

fabbed aluminum valve cover with lexan window. I'd expect you'd have to replace the window on a regular basis due to fogging.

weld on kit to mount toyota rear axle. The question is how to deal with the upper links?

intake flanges

adapter plate for t-9 or world class t-5

delrin bushings

adjustable panhard with weld on brackets

import diesel oil pump covers

import adjustable cam sprockets

Does HighSpeed have anything interesting you could import?

weld in control arm gussets

adjustable upper control arms

steering kit. inner and outer rod ends with a U bracket bolted to the rack

-Travis

[69OpelKadett]

ok i see rally bob's name with the "opel +bost = fun " ..... what versions of boost are there fo the opels ?

[RallyBob]

ok i see rally bob's name with the "opel +bost = fun " ..... what versions of boost are there fo the opels ?

Whatever you can build in your garage.....

There are no kits to put a turbo or supercharger on an Opel, if that's what you're getting at. Doesn't mean it can't be done!

http://opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3316

Bob

[RallyBob]

Ok here's another on the wish list. A complete turbocharger and or supercharger kit complete for the GT would be great - even if hood modification/heater box modification is necessary.

This possibility is being discussed right now by means of various forums. While turboing a Manta or Ascona is relatively straightforward and access is decent, a GT is a tight fit. Numerous members have contributed some excellent suggestions, and I will be making a turbo manifold/EFI manifold mock-up in the next few days to test-fit to my GT.

Bob

[RallyBob]

underdrive crank pulley with a means to mount a toothed wheel

I've been able to mount a toothed wheel simply by drilling and securing on the backside of a pulley. No big deal to do. Could even order the pulleys with the holes already drilled.

kit to mount ecotec motor(looks like you already thought of this one)

Yup...

fabbed aluminum valve cover with lexan window. I'd expect you'd have to replace the window on a regular basis due to fogging.

I don't know about lexan, but a removeable top panel from aluminum might be nice.....lexan for 'show' only maybe?

weld on kit to mount toyota rear axle. The question is how to deal with the upper links?

Thought of this too, easy for a Manta due to the width, but GT's without flares probably need the axles shortened. I have some ideas for the trailing links too, but it would require a fabricated floor section being welded in.

intake flanges

Very possible...

adapter plate for t-9 or world class t-5

Definitely going to make an adapter for the T-5 so I can use a G-Force dog-engagement close ratio gearbox. My hillclimb car needs it! As will most of Gregg's cars making over 300 hp...
I won't bother with the T-9 because the HP limit is not as high, and the exchange rate against the English pound has made everything quite a bit more costly.

delrin bushings

Already on my list!

adjustable panhard with weld on brackets

On my list....

import diesel oil pump covers

Gil at OGTS could order these easier than I can. I'd rather stay away from the 'buy and resell' type stuff.

import adjustable cam sprockets

I can't get these from Kent anymore...they won't sell direct unless you're a licensed business. Piper still does I think....

Does HighSpeed have anything interesting you could import?

Probably, but most of it is kinda pricey once you import it into the US.

weld in control arm gussets

GT I assume? I already have the files for Manta suspension gussets.

adjustable upper control arms

Probably would make a kit...upper and lower a-arms, slightly wider than stock to get the track width correct, and with a wider pivot base to the lower a-arm to reduce the chances of bending. Also multiple attachments to the lower a-arm to allow ride height changes. The use of a tubular upper arm would allow full-size 2.5" coil-overs to be mounted, if the car owner so decides to upgrade later on. There would have to be a reinforcement to the crossmember upper mounts though.

steering kit. inner and outer rod ends with a U bracket bolted to the rack

You lost me on this one. What do you mean by a U bracket?

Bob

[calvin]

some sort of quick disconect rear end so you can keep the 367 for driving and have say 411's for autocross?? Can this be done.


question
would combining headers say the usual small pipe opel header with say a larger longer collector like the Rohnert header you sold me be the best of both world as the little head pipes would kelp keep the low end torche while the larger collecter helps at high rpms? or am I dreaming

[Travis]

You lost me on this one. What do you mean by a U bracket?

Like this

-Travis

[69OpelKadett]

boost would be nice ... wouldn't know what good it would be till i get to drive my opel ..... i will soon enuf once i get a starter

[RallyBob]

some sort of quick disconect rear end so you can keep the 367 for driving and have say 411's for autocross?? Can this be done.


question
would combining headers say the usual small pipe opel header with say a larger longer collector like the Rohnert header you sold me be the best of both world as the little head pipes would kelp keep the low end torche while the larger collecter helps at high rpms? or am I dreaming

Well, if you ran 3.67 gears with a 23" tall tire, and then switched to 20" tall racing tires you'd have an effective ratio of about 4.22.

Headers are usually built for a specific engine size and rpm range. It's hard to have a 'one size fits all' header that will have good bottom end and good top end as well. Personally, for your engine I'd build a 1 5/8" primary tube 4 into 1 header, with 34" primaries leading into a 2.75" collector and a 2.5" exhaust.

Bob