Any Interest in RallyBob Fabricated Parts?

[Wolf Spyder]

Originally Posted by RallyBob Simple if you have vacuum-forming equipment! Actually, I just remembered there's a business out there that will make small runs of pillar pods if you give them a prototype to make a mold from. ABS plastic IIRC.... I'll do some research into that. Yes, many times I've considerd writing a book, to the point of having started writing one numerous times. Problem is, by the time I got to the end of it, the stuff I wrote in the beginning is already old news. And yes the market is very small for this sort of thing, so it would never get published. At best a CD version or pdf version could be made, more likely a zerox machine version... Maybe instructional videos instead....easier to stay up to date! Bob

In todays world a CD-ROM or DVD is cheeper and the up dated could be done via an on-line service for the CD-ROM. For that matter set up you own web server with the "videos" and sell subcriptions!!

[madhatterpdc]

Originally Posted by Wolf Spyder ...set up your own web server...

Ahem, I can help here. Bob, if this is at all interesting to you, mention it to Gregg.

[oldopelguy]

Things I would like myself from the crafty hands of Bob:
-Timing chain cover modified for the oil cooler lines and remote filter (just like the one currently under your work bench)
-modified oil pan, based on the core I would send you, with a larger sump fabricated in it by kicking it out to the driver's side a bit (would require aluminum welding, which I'm terrible at, as the oil pan I modified myself leaks terribly)
-Solid mounting straps for the Kadett and GT steering racks (get a proper suspension upgrade started off easily and quickly)
-Lower control arms with Chrysler ball joint sockets welded in already (I'd send you mine, and tell you how much lower I wanted the set-up to be, etc...)
-Weber carb "box" to allow for "blow through" turbo applications similar to the Vortech one available for 4-bbl carbs. (The whole carb is enclosed in a box, and the box is pressurized by the turbo, after an intercooler.) Alternatly, a Weber carb suitably modified to work under boost would work as well. (I think the box would be a lot easier, though.)
-Fabricated aluminum oil catch cans/ breather tanks made to fit right into our cars, ideally a dual chamber one to catch oil and coolant that sits high on the fenderwell out of the way, along with a modified valve cover or head side cover to hook up the oil breather and the required hose(s).
-Weber carb "hats" to allow them to hook up properly for once to a stock GT air filter

Just some ideas of mine.

I also want to take this opportunity to test the waters for my own Opel fabrication project. I started looking into making a "kit" to properly install a GM alternator, including the required wiring plugs and such, and the project sort of grew into a real mess. The end result is that I hope to be offering a "kit" that includes the mounting brackets for a GM alternator, and a wiring harness with pre-terminated ends (plug and play, if you will) to do the following:

-Wire the alternator properly, including the voltage sensing line
-Equips the car with a starter relay to help save the ignition switch
-Provide correct wiring for a Pertronics unit
-Provide the required wiring for an electric choke if required
-Fuse the headlights and their associated wiring
-Provide a fused oil pump relay that shuts off on no oil pressure
-Provides a fused relay for a set of fog lights, hooked up to the factory switch if equipped
-Provides the option of a remotely located "starter-kill" switch to keep the car from starting
-Possibly provides a cranking push button under the hood for turning over the motor from the engine bay (still not sure about that)
- A 4 slot fuse box and all the relays will mount in the engine compartment to the holes currently drilled for mounting the voltage regulator, so no additional holes there, and the whole kit will have it's own taped or laced wiring loom that installs in the car along side the factory wiring.

This is being designed for a GT, which I don't have. That means the lead time may be a couple of months off, as I will need some product testing for fitment and instruction review before I sell anything. I expect the final price to be in the $100-125 range, but I'm hoping some of you would be willing to pay that much to do all of the "normal" upgrades all at once in an afternoon.

Any interest? PM me or we'll get Keith or Gary to split this off into it's own thread.

[madhatterpdc]

Originally Posted by oldopelguy I also want to take this opportunity to test the waters for my own Opel fabrication project. I started looking into making a "kit" to properly install a GM alternator, including the required wiring plugs and such, and the project sort of grew into a real mess. The end result is that I hope to be offering a "kit" that includes the mounting brackets for a GM alternator, and a wiring harness with pre-terminated ends (plug and play, if you will) to do the following: -Wire the alternator properly, including the voltage sensing line -Equips the car with a starter relay to help save the ignition switch -Provide correct wiring for a Pertronics unit -Provide the required wiring for an electric choke if required -Fuse the headlights and their associated wiring -Provide a fused oil pump relay that shuts off on no oil pressure -Provides a fused relay for a set of fog lights, hooked up to the factory switch if equipped -Provides the option of a remotely located "starter-kill" switch to keep the car from starting -Possibly provides a cranking push button under the hood for turning over the motor from the engine bay (still not sure about that) - A 4 slot fuse box and all the relays will mount in the engine compartment to the holes currently drilled for mounting the voltage regulator, so no additional holes there, and the whole kit will have it's own taped or laced wiring loom that installs in the car along side the factory wiring.

This sounds like a good idea, I'm interested. However, I think that you may want to make some of your additional features optional or delete entirely. It seems as though it may not be worth your time to include, for example, wiring for an electronic choke to customers that are using an aqua or manual choke. My rookie opinion thinks that the less you try to incorporate into this project the more likely you are to enjoy doing it. Less mess, fewer customers expecting more *and* less.

Bracket, Alternator, pulley and simple wiring, done. That to me is worth it. Then MAYBE add one or two simple circuits that would apply to all cars. Examples, fused headlights, starter relay.

[jerseyopel]

I would personally leave out the push button remote under the hood switch just for liability issues alone. Did you ever see anyone wire one, leave the car in gear, and hit that button while leaning over the fender?? Saw my uncle do it and wound up laying across the engine with the hood closed on him. JMTC

[opelbits]

Oldopelguy-

I think I have an answer for your Weber carb 'box'. Take a look under the hood of a carbed Maserati Biturbo. (early to mid 80's). They are twin turbo cars that have a Weber carb inside a box/plenum. It already has the seals and stuff for the linkgae to pass thru. The carb is a Weber and looks like it has the same bottom flange size/bolt pattern as the 32/36 or DGAS, but I can't swear to it). But, you may want to grab the carb, too, since it is already set up for a 2.0L + motor (even though it has two turbos).

The plenum is a nice cast aluminum structure that says Maserati on top, although that could be machined off.

They aren't really hard to find. In fact, I may still be able to get one that is local. Engine harness had a fire and the carb/intake/plenum were removed and placed in the trunk some years ago. The car is ratty and not much good for anything other than parts. But it may be incredibly cheap.

[oldopelguy]

Originally Posted by jerseyopel I would personally leave out the push button remote under the hood switch just for liability issues alone. Did you ever see anyone wire one, leave the car in gear, and hit that button while leaning over the fender?? Saw my uncle do it and wound up laying across the engine with the hood closed on him. JMTC

Which is exactly why I'm on the fence about that particular feature. As to the rest of the stuff, I think the whole harness will only need something like 9 wires to hook up to have all of the functions listed above, as some of the same wires will be used for more than one function, so no sense limiting the possibilities of the harness. If you don't need a feature, the instructions will show how to not use it, but it could always be added in later as long as you keep the instructions.
Also, the "kit" would not include the alternator or Pertronics, as it is better for the end user to purchase them directly for warranty purposes. There will be two options for the alternators, though, the common 7127 65amp unit, which usually retails for @$35 rebuilt, or the smaller newer style 105 amp unit which retails for closer to $100 but is widely available used for $40 or less. Since the newer one requires a pulley change and not everyone has the required tools for it, I would be able to supply those with the kits on a used-and-tested-OK basis for whatever I could get them for myself. I also have a line on a $8 os so discount on the Pertronics units if I order 10 or more, but that would have to wait until I got some $ ahead before I could afford the investment to be able to pass that kind of savings along with the "kits." I'm unemployed myself right now, after-all.

[opelbits]

Oldopelguy-
Check your pm's.

[nobody]

I'm kinda wishing I had some of the square to round adapters for the flanges in the works. They might come in pretty handy.

[ConreroGT]

Wow Bob, I looks like kids making up their Christimas wish list. lol.....

...Is it going to be "SantaBob" from now on?


Dear SantaBob-

I'd agree to or add:
Stronger A arm kit (or anything that would make or strengthen suspension parts) (I wish for coilovers but I know that's been a difficult discussion), adjustable panhard rod, distributor recurve service (and/or) Electromotive bolt-on kit for Opel.

~kyle

PS I'll leave some milk and cookies in your inbox.

[RallyBob]

Posted by oldopelguy:
Things I would like myself from the crafty hands of Bob:

-Timing chain cover modified for the oil cooler lines and remote filter (just like the one currently under your work bench)

I could do this work to your own timing cover, but I don't have any cores readily available to modify here.

-modified oil pan, based on the core I would send you, with a larger sump fabricated in it by kicking it out to the driver's side a bit (would require aluminum welding, which I'm terrible at, as the oil pan I modified myself leaks terribly)

I could do this as well. The most critical thing is making it clean, clean, clean!
Gotta put it in a chemical wash, bake it in an oven, then wash it again and etch it before welding. The aluminum casting is so damn porous it just retains oil like crazy.

-Solid mounting straps for the Kadett and GT steering racks (get a proper suspension upgrade started off easily and quickly)

I have this on my 'to do' list. Will probably have to be made from billet aluminum, as it's very time consuming to fabricate. Makes a huge difference in steering response however.

-Lower control arms with Chrysler ball joint sockets welded in already (I'd send you mine, and tell you how much lower I wanted the set-up to be, etc...)

Yes, this is another thing I was going to offer. For a GT or Kadett the spindles would need to be shipped to me as they need to have a reamer enlarge the lower taper.

-Weber carb "box" to allow for "blow through" turbo applications similar to the Vortech one available for 4-bbl carbs. (The whole carb is enclosed in a box, and the box is pressurized by the turbo, after an intercooler.) Alternatly, a Weber carb suitably modified to work under boost would work as well. (I think the box would be a lot easier, though.)

I'm gonna stay away from this. I really don't care for carb'd turbo systems and their inherent tuning problems.

-Fabricated aluminum oil catch cans/ breather tanks made to fit right into our cars, ideally a dual chamber one to catch oil and coolant that sits high on the fenderwell out of the way, along with a modified valve cover or head side cover to hook up the oil breather and the required hose(s).

Maybe give me more specifics as to where you had the mounting points configured.

-Weber carb "hats" to allow them to hook up properly for once to a stock GT air filter

I was thinking instead of a complete cold air system from inlet to carburetor.

I'm almost there with my list BTW, I have it narrowed down to about 2 pages of products/services.

Bob

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by nobody I'm kinda wishing I had some of the square to round adapters for the flanges in the works. They might come in pretty handy.

I just got your check in the mail this morning for the header flanges. If you can wait a couple more days, I was intending to make some of those adapters tomorrow, and I could ship them in the same box with the header flanges.

Bob

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by ConreroGT I'd agree to or add: Stronger A arm kit (or anything that would make or strengthen suspension parts) (I wish for coilovers but I know that's been a difficult discussion), adjustable panhard rod, distributor recurve service (and/or) Electromotive bolt-on kit for Opel.

Most of the items you've inquired about I've given the green light to. My idea was to build a complete upper/lower tubular a-arm kit that will widen the front track. The lower a-arm I have in mind will have a wider, more stable pivot point which should lessen the propensity for them to bend. I will build them to work with the stock or aftermaket leaf springs, but a bolt-in upgrade will allow coil-overs.

The adjustable panhard bar and HD trailing arms are a 'go' as well.

I will probably offer the distributor modifications too.

I axed the crank-trigger Electromotive idea. Too small a market, and very expensive. Three outa four ain't bad!

Bob

[nobody]

I never heard a price on the adapters so just do what you can. I can screw up welding them and figured two would be good on the flanges. I try not to make the same mistake twice. If you get a chance the adjustable panhard has shown a bit of interest, shoot me a price and I'll send payment. 2 inch drop from OGTS is what I'm working with in case that matters.

[Travis]

Originally Posted by RallyBob -Solid mounting straps for the Kadett and GT steering racks (get a proper suspension upgrade started off easily and quickly) I have this on my 'to do' list. Will probably have to be made from billet aluminum, as it's very time consuming to fabricate. Makes a huge difference in steering response however.

I'll definately take a set of these. Available by spring?

-Travis

[jerseyopel]

I could use a header flange if there is an extra. Also need a short throw shifter for a 4 spd. Pm me if you are interested.Charlton

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by jerseyopel I could use a header flange if there is an extra. Also need a short throw shifter for a 4 spd. Pm me if you are interested.Charlton

I am still holding out for the those who originally said they wanted one. But if in the next few weeks those in reserve are not 'claimed' (i.e., payed for!), then I will offer them all over again, first come....first served.

If you have a shift tower core you can send me, I can modify it. I have no 4-speed cores. And keep in mind GT and Manta shift towers are different...

Bob

[jerseyopel]

Do you need the shift tower and linkage? I am not sure as to what parts you have to actually work on,ie a picture would help. What address would you like me to send it to? Thanks Charlton

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by jerseyopel Do you need the shift tower and linkage? I am not sure as to what parts you have to actually work on,ie a picture would help. What address would you like me to send it to? Thanks Charlton

Just the shift tower is needed. As an upgrade I can make a heim-jointed shifter linkage too, but that requires you to drill and tap into the tranny shift arm to attach it (the shift arm does not easily remove from the tranny itself). I'll see if I can find a 4-speed tranny to take pics from, I don't have any on file.

Bob

[CDN OpelNut]

Bob - I like the idea of the engine upgrade package that you could send to be installed locally. If this didn't work out, I'd be willing to pay on a consultant basis for detailed instructions on upgrade work that I could take to a local shop to have executed. It could be specific to the needs of the driver and as I have only a marginal understanding of a lot of this stuff having you provide the shop with part numbers etc would be priceless (figuratively speaking, of course)

You could also provide telephone assistance to the shop if requires.

After all, it's nice to get paid for your expertise as well as your craftsmanship.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by nobody I never heard a price on the adapters so just do what you can. I can screw up welding them and figured two would be good on the flanges. I try not to make the same mistake twice. If you get a chance the adjustable panhard has shown a bit of interest, shoot me a price and I'll send payment. 2 inch drop from OGTS is what I'm working with in case that matters.

Hmm, this morning I did a bit of time keeping, and well, the square-to-round adapters would be prohibitively expensive to make. I really rushed through making a couple of sets and to be honest I'm not happy with the quality. The time consuming part is not the forming of the round shape, but rather 'making' the 1.25" x 1.50" tubing. I looked and looked and no one offers square tubing in that size (unless anyone out there knows otherwise?). So the first step is to cut a 1/4" strip out of each side of a piece of 1.5" x 1.5" square tube, true the edges up, weld them together, and then grind the weld down. When all is said and done I'd have to charge about $45-$50 a set. I think that's too much time and money for what it is, so I'm not going to produce them.

Dave, I'll throw the test samples into the box with your header flanges, you can have them.

Bob

[baz]

bob would you take an idea from an old blacksmith
start the other way
make a mandril from steel shaped to the inside of the oblong end to the inside dia of the pipe out to the oblong you want with a handle @ oblong end
heat the end of the pipe and hammer the mandril into it to get the shape
the outside can be dressed on the mandril then cut to lenth (you may want to allow 1/16 " for stretching and loss to scale)
wish i had access to my old forge i would be able to make a set without dressing in less that 1 hour

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by baz make a mandril from steel shaped to the inside of the oblong end to the inside dia of the pipe out to the oblong you want with a handle @ oblong end

Huh?

I am always open to suggestions. Are you saying to start with a round pipe and shape one end into a rectangle?

Sorry, I'm trying to picture what you've said, and it's a bit foggy up here!

Bob

[namba209]

Bob, if I can decipher what Baz said, is to make a steel plug to the ID sizes you want, heat the tube cherry red and force it over the plug, talking to it with a hammer and anvil as you form the tube to the plug. Just be sure you can remove the plug after everything cools down. Like he said, old school blacksmithing. HTH.

[jordan]

I made one of these adapters today, it was very easy and came out nicely (my father is a blacksmith) we have several forges and 2 power hammers but all I used was the smallest forge and an anvil.