Rear wheel bearing shims

[Dmcbrass]

I'm in the process of replacing the right rear wheel bearing on my GT and inspecting the left. I installed the axles reusing the original shims (.005") on the driverside and (.010") on the passenger side. Both axles had significant end play. I secured 5 shims from OGTS (they all measure .005"), and reinstalled three shims on the driverside (total of .015") and four on the passenger side (total of .025"). The driverside now has no end play; however, the passenger side still needs about (.010") to tighten it up.
1. Does anyone know of a source for these shims other than OGTS. I'd really like to get the car together this weekend. Maybe a cross reference to something readily available?
2. I've always been taught to never stack more than 3 shims together, so I guess I need to find some that are more than .005" thick. Do you guys agree?

[SpringGT]

Auto supply stores used to sell sheets of shim stock of varying thicknesses, but I haven't been in the market for any in a long time, so don't know if it is commonly available now or not. Call a few and maybe you can be up and running soon.
Bob

[GTJIM]

The shims are very necessary and it is important that they are installed with the correct measurement. They 'nip' the outer race of the bearing and stop it spinning in the housing - sounds like yours have spun and worn the housing a bit. You just have to keep stacking them in there till the correct pre-load is achieved. Shims from some 'Salisbury' type diffs may be a usable size - Dana 23, 27 or 44 models out of Jeeps for instance. Take a shim to your local diff shop and see if they can match it up with something the right thickness.

Here is a Thread about finding the correct thickness:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/4c-axle...+Bearing+Shims

HTH

[Dmcbrass]

I made a shim from a sheet of .030" thick steel. I used a 2" hole saw to create the inner diameter and then cut the outer diameter with a pair of tin snips. I hammered everything flat to remove any burrs or high areas. I installed the shim in the passenger side and still had just a little bit of float. I added one of the .005" shims and I still had a little bit of float. I added the other two and I still had a little bit of float. I'm very frustrated and confused. The assembly seems very straight forward but I seem to be chasing my tail. I now have .045" total shims but can still feel it bump when I push and pull hard on the axle. The driver side seems fine. Jim I agree with you. The outer race is a slip fit in the housing, so the only thing to keep the race from creeping in the bore is the preload. I've read the procedure in the FSM, but it seems to me that the only danger of getting too much preload would be that the gaskets wouldn't have enough crush to seal. As long as I sneak up on it with .005" shims, I guess I'm OK. Anyone got any words of wisdom out there.

[GTJIM]

0.045" seems a lot of shims - usually only one or two 0.005" ones .....
Have you carefully examined the shoulder inside the axle tube that the bearing stops against and the back of the brakes plate, which clamps the other side? If the Backing plate gets bent or bowed ( by a "PO" slamming against a curb, for instance) then that may contribute to the excess distance.

If you pull the axle the distance from the inner shoulder to the outer face of the axle tube can be measured with a Digital caliper ... along with the width of the bearing's outer race and the depth of the wee 'step' in the backing plate. With the thickness of the paper gasket (which goes between the axle and the brake backing plate) you should arrive at a "theoretical" shim pack thickness.

All this ... just to get a rear wheel bearing into place correctly ... LOVE OPELS!

[markandson]

Double check how the whole assembly is going together. Sounds like something may not be seating all the way "home". Also, might seem like a dumb question, but have you checked the bearing itself to be sure that the play is not coming from it.

[Dmcbrass]

Brand new bearing

[Manta Rallier]

Brand new bearing

No guarantee that it does not have some slop. There are always a few bad parts floating about out there. If the amount of play is not changing as shims are added, then it has to be either the bearing or the bearing float on the axle shaft. Was the axle shafft damaged at all by the prior bearing?

Regards,
Mark B.

[Dmcbrass]

Made a .040" shim today. I added two .005" shims and the end play is gone. I think GTJIM was right. Some time in the past a bearing spun and machined its way into the axle tube. The bearing I removed was worn (spun easily), but didn't have any serious damage. There was a lot of end clearance in the axle that I attributed to the loose bearing. Now I'm betting that the bearing was installed that way after a past failure.