Ignition Sw Key Tumblers

[rockytopmark]

I have read a few posts on the removal of the ignition key switch, and most seem to intimate that you need to remove the steering wheel. Is this 100% necessary? I just want to remove the locking mechanism (the tumblers and such, without removing the entire switch mechanism.

Thanks,

[GTJIM]

Opel, once again in their infinite wisdom, put the tiny hole that you push the pin into for releasing the lock barrel .... under the steering wheel hub ..... I guess to stop itinerant car thieves from easily removing the lock.

Read this thread BEFORE damaging the thread that holds the steering wheel on ...

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/3b-stee...g+Wheel+puller

Hmmm - I see Anonymous D says it does not need to be removed - perhaps there are different positions for the pin hole from year to year - be lucky and hope yours is the accessible one .........

[Anonymous D]

It's not necessary to pull the steering
wheel, you just have to insert the key,
turn the tumbler to the "on" position
(not as far as "start"), then use a bent
paperclip to depress the retainer "pin."
See the factory service manual, for the
location of the retaining pin, or consult
the April 2005 OMC Blitz (which covered
this subject in detail).

[jerseydave]

I did all of the hard stuff up to this point, pulled the steering wheel (with my new puller) but I cannot get the ignition switch out.

I have tried paper clip, stiff spring wire, but the switch won't release, yes i have the key in the run position. Maybe a little C-4, oh that's right I want to keep the car.

What should I attempt next?

[jerseydave]

Problem solved, I remember glancing at an article in the Blitz from April 2006 with a tech tip on steering column maintenance someone had linked during the past week and finally found that post.

The FSM was wrong because on my 73 the release pin is not as pictured or referenced at 5 o'clock, but is near the top of the sleeve more at 4 o'clock and once I read the article in the Blitz that said 70-73 release pin would be there it came out very easily! .

[denny71gt]

I have a '71 GT which refuses (so far) to give up the ignition lock cylinder. Key is in the "on" position, pin release hole seems to be just below large Philips screw. Have tried to depress release pin with a clothes hanger wire shaped like a hook (saw picture somewhere), a paper clip (not at the same time), and WD40, no luck Suggestions please.

Denny

[GTJIM]

1) Are you sure that the key you are using works the lock and is not worn?
2) Is the key turned to the correct position?
3) Are you sure you are depressing the wee pin far enough?

4) DON'T damage anything - it is all 'pot' metal around there and bashing or over enthusiastic yanking WILL damage things.

5) Once it pops out you will wonder why it was so difficult! (I know this from experience ..)

[denny71gt]

GTTim, I am wondering if a wee tap (and I do mean a "wee" tap. A bigger hammer is usually not the best way to get the job done) on the wee pin with a wee pin punch will get it loose? I do not feel any movement of the pin when I push it with a probe like a bent clothes hanger wire or paper clip. I am assuming that the pin is spring loaded and that while it is depressed the cylinder can be removed. Does the large Philips head screw need to be removed first? Gary's instructions from a couple of years ago indicates that the screw is removed after the key cylinder.

denny

[Anonymous D]

A link to the April 2006 OMC Blitz article on GT steering column disassembly, is here:

http://www.opelclub.com/SteeringColumnApr2006.pdf

Pages 2 and 3 show the location of the "pin" that holds the lock cylinder in place.

Important: You do need make sure to rotate the key in the lock cylinder TWO CLICKS FORWARD to the "on" position, before this pin will depress and allow you to remove the cylinder from the sleeve. Otherwise, you will damge this lock cylinder permanently, and will have to replace it (which not only is hard to find and pricey, but then you will either have to rekey it, or deal with the hassle of having separate keys for the doors and ignition).

(You may have to download a newer version of Adobe Acrobat, from Adobe, to read it. Also some browsers require you to close then reopen the window, in order to view the file).

The page linking to this file is at:

Electrical System

[jtb]

Hi,

I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but I was just trying to re-assemble my lock cylinder today, and it doesn't seem to have enough 'oomph' to release the steering lock when switched from off to run or start. I have never used this assembly before, is it simply worn out or am I missing something?

And I did look at the blitz article, good pictures, but no help for my particular problem.

Thanks,

jtb

[denny71gt]

Referencing the OMC April 2006 article, step 9(b) and the drawing on that page, I do not find a hole in the top of the sleeve, but there is a hole just to the right and down from the "screw." Isn't this where the pin is located?

denny

[Anonymous D]

To get the answers you need, all you have to do is read the article, closely.

The location of the "peg retainer"/locking pin mentioned in Step 9B, is illustrated as item "C" in the diagram titled "Internal Alignment."

Steps 9F and 12, cover the other question.

If the lock cylinder was removed, and the spring in the ignition switch roated the "cross-shaped connector" out of the correct location (which would mean the steering column lock also would be out of sync), then the "cross-shaped connector" has to be rotated back into the correct position before the lock cylinder is installed again.

[jtb]

Ummm... nope. I assembled it correctly (according to the article) several times. The lock tumbler and the switch work great, it is just the steering lock part. I hold it in the recessed position, and assemble the whole thing. When the key is turned to off, the steering lock engages (as it should), but does not disengage when the key is turned to on or run or start.
I've looked at the mechanism, and it sure doesn't move much when the tumbler spins, this is why I'm wondering if it is worn out, or perhaps I have mixed different years of components together??? (this is the problem with getting a car as a basket case) Anybody have any idea(s)?

Thanks,

jtb

[namba209 (R.I.P.)]

I had to play with the same thing on mine. One thing I did notice, it doesn't take much of a turn to get the steering lock disengaged or engaged, maybe a 1/4 turn in the direction of unlocking it, so the ignition switch works when the steering is not locked is the way to go. You sure dontt want it to lock when your driving it.

[jtb]

That's probably my next step if I can't get it working - to remove the steering lock mechanism. I can live without having the steering wheel lock (especially while I'm driving!)

jtb

[denny71gt]

I am posting this to help someone who may run into the same problem I had, could not find the pin to release the lock cylinder. There is a grommet around the cylinder opening into the outer steering shaft sleeve. Somehow a portion of this grommet had partially come loose and had moved inside the sleeve just enough to cover the pin. Thanks GTJIM and Anonymous D for your persistence in helping me. This is a great site.

Denny