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Thread: crank and spin

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    Opeler jvandyke is on a distinguished road jvandyke's Avatar
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    crank and spin

    Just got my first Opel last week. Mid winter here so not diving in too deep but has gone for a few little joy rides.
    First issue;
    when I turn the key to start, she turns over just once it seems then something somewhere gives up and she spins. Does this everytime. I assume it should be cranking a bit more then that. My first move is go through and clean up every electrical connection I can get at, clean and grease.
    Thought I'd ask though so as to prepare for some wrenching down the road.
    Should probably look into an Otto start anyway, and isnt' there something you're supposed to do to the fuse box, headlight wiring.......

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    Member West Coast GT West Coast GT's Avatar
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    Sounds like marginal power getting to the solenoid.
    1st - Let's rule your battery out. Either swap it for one you know is good, or, disconnect it and jump from another car directly to you battery cables.

    2nd - If the symptoms persist, look to electrical connections as you've already suggested. Clean them up.

    3rd - Use a stout screwdriver and, without grounding it to the block or oil dipstick) use it to jump the two large connector lugs on the starter. Make sure the car is out-of-gear when you do this or you'll find you've just ran over your own foot and created quite the cocktail party story.

    4th - OK, problem's still there? Before you send for a new starter, pull the old one, tear it apart, and clean all internal connections. Clean all of the old crud around the bearings. Re-Lube the bearings. If you can get them, replace the brushes.

    5th - If all else fails, take the starter into an automotive electrical shop for a re-build. Try not to take a trade. Make sure they bench test it before they give it back to you. You'd be surprised; I picked up a re-manufactured alternator from Napa Auto Parts and it wouldn't even spin. (yeah - they told me it had been tested )

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    6,000 Post Club namba209 (R.I.P.) is on a distinguished road namba209 (R.I.P.)'s Avatar
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    Referring to your original post, you said the engine turns over once, then "it" spins. I presume you mean the starter motor just spins on and isn't engaged to the flywheel. Obviously it does continue to be engaged some times or you wouldn't be taking the short drives. The function of the solenoid is twofold, the elctromagnet coil pulls a piston to the rear of the starter, which engages the pinion gear, through a pivoting action into the flywheel. The same action forces a large washer into the contacts that supply battery power to the starter motor and ignition coil. If the bore the piston slides in is dirty, full travel of the pinion gear into the flywheel is inhibited. The same can be true if the pivot arms have loose or worn attaching hardware. HTH.
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    Opeler jvandyke is on a distinguished road jvandyke's Avatar
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    Alright, I'll start in on it.
    FWIW, when I got the car off the trailer, about 15 degrees at the time, the car didn't want to start, it did this spinning routine right off the bat, but it cranked FOREVER, I couldn't believe that battery wasn't dying it took me at least 15 minutes to get the car going.
    Then I drained the battery somehow overnight as I was dinking with electrics seeing what worked and what didn't, not sure if I left the key on or what I did but I jumped it, ran it, drove it. Put it on a tender. It's been on a tender ever since.

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    Opeler jvandyke is on a distinguished road jvandyke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by namba209 View Post
    Referring to your original post, you said the engine turns over once, then "it" spins. I presume you mean the starter motor just spins on and isn't engaged to the flywheel.
    correct, "it" is the starter spinning (or that's what it sounds like to my untrained Opel ear)

    It always engages for a split second, enough to get at least partial engine turn over, which is enough to start her up, if she's warm. Takes several attempts if cold (although I've only tried to start her 5 times so far, remember it's cold here now, like, -don't even look crosswise at that vinyl or it shatters- kinda cold)

    PS, since quite a few common mods have been done to this car already, I'm wondering where the most normal place to mount an Otto start would be? If it already has one, I don't think I need another.

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    Senior Contributor markandson is on a distinguished road markandson's Avatar
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    Very easy to tell if it has an O'start. Follow the wires from the solenoid back, if they go into a harness that heads through the plateau in front of the firewall, then you don't have an O'start. If one of the wires from the solenoid goes to a relay mounted somewhere in the engine compartment, then you do have one. An Otto Start is just a relay that is in between the key switch and the starter solenoid.
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    Member wrangler is on a distinguished road wrangler's Avatar
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    Though I could be wrong, I thought that that bronze colored box on the driver's side firewall was a starter relay? Or is that for the ignition coil? Did you ever determine what all the other little 'extra' items were? (i.e., that filter and other round device on the passenger side, and the item mounted under the steering wheel?)

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    Living in the past opelnut10 is on a distinguished road opelnut10's Avatar
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    spinnig starter

    Quote Originally Posted by jvandyke View Post
    correct, "it" is the starter spinning (or that's what it sounds like to my untrained Opel ear)

    It always engages for a split second, enough to get at least partial engine turn over, which is enough to start her up, if she's warm. Takes several attempts if cold (although I've only tried to start her 5 times so far, remember it's cold here now, like, -don't even look crosswise at that vinyl or it shatters- kinda cold)

    PS, since quite a few common mods have been done to this car already, I'm wondering where the most normal place to mount an Otto start would be? If it already has one, I don't think I need another.
    You have what is called a "bendix spring" that is activated by the selonoid (Sp) it throws or engages the starter gear into the teeth on the flywheel if that spring is weak it will not fully engage the drive gear of the starter into the flywheel causing the condition you are discribing.

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    Old Opeler GTJIM will become famous soon enough GTJIM's Avatar
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    Starter Relay

    The main culprit with GT ( well Opel ... as they used the same wiring through to the 1990's!!) starter problems is voltage drop through the poor wee ignition switch. Routing up to 20 amps through the steering column wiring fries it eventually and causes large reduction in the voltage the stater solenoid "sees". The solenoid is the smaller round cylinder on top of the starter motor. This reduction in voltage causes the solenoid to release and disengage the starter pinion from the flywheel - the starter still spins but is not engaged.

    This is fixed by placing an electrical relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid to reduce the current through the steering column to about 1 amp. The relay then carries the heavy current - as it is designed to do.

    An "Otto Start" is the kit, advertised in the Classified For Sale section on this site, which contains the relay and wires necessary to do the job.
    http://www.opelgt.com/forums/vbclass...php?do=ad&id=3

    Here is a schematic showing how the wires are redone:
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    Last edited by GTJIM; 01-30-2007 at 03:56 PM.
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    Detroit,where my home was 2 Fast 4 U is on a distinguished road 2 Fast 4 U's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvandyke View Post
    .....when I turn the key to start, she turns over just once it seems then something somewhere gives up and she spins. Does this everytime.....
    Had a problem like that after changing the engine, the start motor would turn like the battery was almost flat.
    I knew that the start motor from my original engine worked good so I switched them, never had a problem since, stil have to look at the start motor to see what's wrong with it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by opelnut10 View Post
    You have what is called a "bendix spring" that is activated by the selonoid (Sp) it throws or engages the starter gear into the teeth on the flywheel if that spring is weak it will not fully engage the drive gear of the starter into the flywheel causing the condition you are discribing.
    Another possibility, one that I suffered through, was loss of teeth on the flywheel.
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    Opeler jvandyke is on a distinguished road jvandyke's Avatar
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    Took a picture, no Otto that I can see, also some added fuses, for ?
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    1000 Post Club baronbors baronbors's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvandyke View Post
    Took a picture, also some added fuses, for ?
    Best guess is the front headlights?? Pull them out and see what doesn't work

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    Opeler jvandyke is on a distinguished road jvandyke's Avatar
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    Here's that other picture. Lots of doodads on this baby. The fuse area under the dash scares me
    I'll clean up those solenoid wires, order up an Otto and see were I'm at, possibly rebuild the starter, clean up battery and grounds and the like as well.

    can't attach pictures anymore, says "uploading please wait" and sits there forever, here it is on a web server
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    Opeler bionic_chronik is on a distinguished road bionic_chronik's Avatar
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    73 gt starter removal

    can anyone direct me to how to remove starter from 73 gt, or would it be easier to just remove the solenoid without removing starter, that is where i think my problem is, starter will try to crank but will just spin. if anyone can help it would be apreciated thankyou
    Last edited by tekenaar; 02-05-2007 at 01:00 PM.

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    Cunning Linguist tekenaar will become famous soon enough tekenaar's Avatar
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    Starter "Bendix" one-way clutch

    Quote Originally Posted by bionic_chronik View Post
    can anyone direct me to how to remove starter from 73 gt, or would it be easier to just remove the solenoid without removing starter, that is where i think my problem is, starter will try to crank but will just spin. if anyone can help it would be apreciated thankyou
    If it spins, no problem with the solenoid . . . it's the Bendix unit, a one-way clutched gear that engages flywheel ring gear. It can be replaced . . . it's available separately, but means disassembly of the starter itself and you'll need to remove the solenoid assembly from the starter first, as well.


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    Cunning Linguist tekenaar will become famous soon enough tekenaar's Avatar
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    Hmmmm . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by bionic_chronik View Post
    can anyone direct me to how to remove starter from 73 gt, or would it be easier to just remove the solenoid without removing starter, that is where i think my problem is, starter will try to crank but will just spin. if anyone can help it would be apreciated thankyou
    I moved your duplicate thread here and deleted your identical question. Since you're a new member, I posted a PM to you with the reason for it.


    1960: '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
    1970: '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P
    1970: '73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
    1980: '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
    2000: '09 Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT "Stage 2" Turbo 5S 3.73P

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    Opeler jvandyke is on a distinguished road jvandyke's Avatar
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    This is a bit premature but the ONE TIME I cranked my car the other day, it grabbed fired immediately (after sitting 5 days and really really cold and no choke on her)
    So far all I had done was clean contacts just a little right at the solenoid. No idea if that had anything to do with it "grapping" better but maybe.

    bionik:
    I'd advise you go through your connections (as suggested in this thread) before ripping into the starter, can't hurt, might help and should be done anyway.
    "Being ignorant is not so much a shame, as being unwilling to learn." Benjamin Franklin

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    Cunning Linguist tekenaar will become famous soon enough tekenaar's Avatar
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    Good general practice . . . but . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by bionic_chronik View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by jvandyke View Post
    can anyone direct me to how to remove starter from 73 gt, or would it be easier to just remove the solenoid without removing starter, that is where i think my problem is, starter will try to crank but will just spin. if anyone can help it would be apreciated thankyou
    This is a bit premature but the ONE TIME I cranked my car the other day, it grabbed fired immediately (after sitting 5 days and really really cold and no choke on her)
    So far all I had done was clean contacts just a little right at the solenoid. No idea if that had anything to do with it "grapping" better but maybe.

    bionik:
    I'd advise you go through your connections (as suggested in this thread) before ripping into the starter, can't hurt, might help and should be done anyway.
    Always a good practice, but since he's already said his starter spins but, evidently, doesn't engage the flywheel ring, his problem is likely not! in his starter's electrical connections or the solenoid . . .


    1960: '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
    1970: '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P
    1970: '73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
    1980: '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
    2000: '09 Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT "Stage 2" Turbo 5S 3.73P

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    Cunning Linguist tekenaar will become famous soon enough tekenaar's Avatar
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    Starter solenoid connections . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by jvandyke View Post
    Took a picture, no OttoStart that I can see, also some added fuses, for ?
    Copied and added text for solenoid connections to your first pic:



    1960: '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
    1970: '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P
    1970: '73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
    1980: '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
    2000: '09 Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT "Stage 2" Turbo 5S 3.73P

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