Alternator removal advice

[Dale .D]

Hi . Need a little advice for the mechanically challenged. Replacing my original alternator with the 45 amp one from opel gt.unhooked everything & the darn thing doesn't have enough room to get out . Removed the voltage regulator & the coil harness & still not enough room .. Do I have to remove the distributor next & if so how?I see the bolt holding the distributor ib. Do I take that off & just pu. Will it automaticall go back in the right place . I don't want to bugger any timing up.This may be stupid question but bear with me thanks . Dale

[tomking]

It will come out without removing the dizzy. you may have to rotate it some to get out, but it will come out. if the 45 amp is larger then it may NOT go in without removing dizzy, or rotating dizzy out of the way. Hopefully you dont have to remove the dizzy because to do so you first have to remove the stock fuel pump!!!

[tekenaar]

It will come out without removing the dizzy. you may have to rotate it some to get out, but it will come out. if the 45 amp is larger then it may NOT go in without removing dizzy, or rotating dizzy out of the way. Hopefully you dont have to remove the dizzy because to do so you first have to remove the stock fuel pump!!!

. . . think he's talking about the 45A Bosch unit used in the '75 FI Opels!

[Lindsay]

On my GT, I prefer to remove radiator instead of distributor for OEM alternator replacement. I drain coolant by disconnecting lower radiator hose, then upper hose, and removal of lower radiator bolt. Carefully lift radiator up and out of GT from rubber mounts.

Disconnect ground cable before working on alternator. Once the radiator is removed, slide alternator through radiator support opening. Can't remember if I had to disconnect distributor cap, etc.?

If this not for a GT, disregard instructions.

[Dale .D]

I'd rather do the rad thing rather than the dist & fuel pump . Just had the fuel pump put in .You would think that they would arrange things so you can do a simple alt change without removing so much stuff..I'll try one more possibility.The throttle linkage maybe . Kepp it comming . Thanks

[Dale .D]

Eh, I got it. just had to take apart some of the throttle linkage & just scraped by & the new alternator is the same size, so all is well. Thanks

[tomking]

I agree with your frustration Dale about not having to remove the fuel pump to get the dizzy out. That is why I installed the electric fuel pump in place of stock. As have many others of course.

[gr_diver]

Try changing the starter motor in a Lancia or Fiat, post 2000 models... Talk about tight spaces... Some other FWD cars even require the whole engine to get lifted with a hoist to get to such things (starters, alternators)... PITA!

I specifically recall being in a repair shop one day, and the mechanic was swearing at a Lancia with a damaged starter. He had to disconnect the radiator, the exhaust manifold and a whole bunch of electrics to slightly lift the engine, for a 15 mins job of replacing the starter...

[Dale .D]

I probably should of in hind sight replaced the feul pump with an electric one when it went. If it goes again I will.Though about replacing the rad fan with electric too . Wonder if GT Sourse sell a kit? You would think with the motor not having the drag of the fan & the feul pump it would help some?

[Lindsay]

Still using belt driven fan and mechanical fuel pump on my GT. I have a limited budget for Opel upgrades. If the components worked in the Seventies when new, NOS will function OK for now.

[mchirino]

I am discovering this as we speak. I was replacing my alt when I discovered it wouldn't come out from the top. I tried side ways, upside down, and all over. I really didn't want't to take out the dist since I couldn't get to the crank bolt to spin the motor without removing the fan and couldn't see the marks without removing the rad

Took out the rad, took out the fan, took off the dist, and replace the alt.

Bad move.

Now that I got the alt in I am getting pops even after attempting to set the timing.

Any one know of an easy method to set timing to a general spec? As per the book I found the lines on the timing cover and believe I found a line on the pulley which I am not so sure about.

I aligned the pulley line to the timing cover, the dist rotor to the line on the dist housing and crank away. with a pop here and there but nothing else.

I am getting fuel.

I am thinking about taking the valve cover off next to make sure that it is actually TDC and to see if the valves are loose on the no.1.

Any one gone through this one?

Mig

[yellaopelgt]

Bet you put the dizzy in or wires back on in the complete opposite direction. the notorious 180 degree off deal. Try switching the wires. See if it will fire off or at the very least get it to start..
HTH Joe

[mchirino]

Thanks for the reply.

I'll check it.

[Bill Hoffmann]

Any one know of an easy method to set timing to a general spec? As per the book I found the lines on the timing cover and believe I found a line on the pulley which I am not so sure about.

I aligned the pulley line to the timing cover, the dist rotor to the line on the dist housing and crank away. with a pop here and there but nothing else.

I am getting fuel.

I am thinking about taking the valve cover off next to make sure that it is actually TDC and to see if the valves are loose on the no.1.

Any one gone through this one?

Mig

I cut and pasted this from a thread about timing being 180 degrees out. The only thing I would add (since this thread concerned a running engine) is that for the first part you can put your finger on #1 spark plug hole to make sure you feel compression, confirming that you are at #1 firing position:

There are three marks that need to be lined up to have the factory setting.

First, get the ball on the flywheel to align with the pointer at cylinder #1 firing position. You can remove the #1 plug wire and watch for the spark while cranking to do make sure of this.

The second mark is the one you see on the edge of the distributor where the cap mounts. The rotor should point there when the distributor is replaced. Because the drive gears are not straight cut, you have to turn the rotor out of position so when assembled it will align itself. The other complication is the oil pump slot which has to be turned with a long screwdriver. It usually takes a few tries for it all to come together.

The third mark is the one most people don't know about. If you look at the flange on the base of the distributor there is usually an assembly mark made with a chisel that corresponds to a mark on the timing cover. The mark is on the front side of the engine near the alternator bracket-to-timing cover bolt, usually covered with grease. These marks should be aligned when the distributor is replaced. If done correctly, the distributor boot will align perfectly and the opening for the wires will point towards the #1 plug, just like in all the service manual photos. Of course, you will change it slightly when you set the timing, but it should still be close to the mark.

[mchirino]

She is running again!

Rotating the oil pump gave the the ability to get everything lined up but it did turn out that I was using the incorrect plug sequence. Although the book sure makes it look like it was supposed to be the way It was I crossed 1 and 2 it started rough, then I swapped 3 and 4 and shes going strong.

Now I just need to dial it in. I am going to look for the other mrks on the dist base.

Thanks for the help.

[yellaopelgt]

Might be a good idea to MAKE some marks somwhere for future reference.....I hate doing things twice so I mark everything,or clean up the originals and paint them so I can see.
Joe

[mchirino]

So she is running again but kinda rough. Is it possible to be a tooth off?

I saw a posting that stats firing order 1342 but how does one establish no.1 on the cap?

[West Coast GT]

Just need clarification on one point.
When the three timing points (flywheel, rotor, and distributor base) are all set in proper alignment, is this:

1. Static timing at Top Dead Center?
2. Or is this static timing for proper advance @ idle speed?

[BQS4]

Just need clarification on one point.
When the three timing points (flywheel, rotor, and distributor base) are all set in proper alignment, is this:

1. Static timing at Top Dead Center?
2. Or is this static timing for proper advance @ idle speed?

Static timing at TDC

[Dale .D]

I cut and pasted this from a thread about timing being 180 degrees out. The only thing I would add (since this thread concerned a running engine) is that for the first part you can put your finger on #1 spark plug hole to make sure you feel compression, confirming that you are at #1 firing position:

There are three marks that need to be lined up to have the factory setting.

First, get the ball on the flywheel to align with the pointer at cylinder #1 firing position. You can remove the #1 plug wire and watch for the spark while cranking to do make sure of this.

The second mark is the one you see on the edge of the distributor where the cap mounts. The rotor should point there when the distributor is replaced. Because the drive gears are not straight cut, you have to turn the rotor out of position so when assembled it will align itself. The other complication is the oil pump slot which has to be turned with a long screwdriver. It usually takes a few tries for it all to come together.

The third mark is the one most people don't know about. If you look at the flange on the base of the distributor there is usually an assembly mark made with a chisel that corresponds to a mark on the timing cover. The mark is on the front side of the engine near the alternator bracket-to-timing cover bolt, usually covered with grease. These marks should be aligned when the distributor is replaced. If done correctly, the distributor boot will align perfectly and the opening for the wires will point towards the #1 plug, just like in all the service manual photos. Of course, you will change it slightly when you set the timing, but it should still be close to the mark.

Eh Billy I knew A billy Hoffman when I was a kid .You weren't from the Shuswap in BC were you??