Do you mean besides the pollution, gas fumes, and fact that on a hot day the gas in your tank would be disappearing rapidly from your tank? Nope, the car will still work and run without the charcoal canister.
Would there be a problem with doing away with the cannister and just venting the tank to the air? This is a 71 I am restoring and as I look at my 69 it just vents to the air![]()
Growing old is mandatory, Growing up is optional
Do you mean besides the pollution, gas fumes, and fact that on a hot day the gas in your tank would be disappearing rapidly from your tank? Nope, the car will still work and run without the charcoal canister.
1958 Rekord Sedan, 1958 Olympia Wagon, 1959 Opel Olympia Sedan, 1967 Kadett Coupe, 1967 Admiral Sedan 4L CIH-6, 1968 Kadett fastback 1.1L, 1970 Kadett Wagon Turbo 2.2L, 1971 Kadett Sedan 1.1L, 1975 Manta Wagon 4.3L V-6
Lez, are you still interested in those hard brake lines I forgot about at RT66?
Last edited by tekenaar; 10-08-2007 at 09:39 AM. Reason: RT766?
TMK
When I bought my car, there was an open connection (just a 3 feet hose)between the tank-vent and the open air. When my car was parked in the garage, the whole house was smelling of gasoline and I had to open all windows to have some clean air inside. Had a constant headache!. As I was working in a laboratory at that time, I got hold of an old in-line gas-purifying container. I refilled it with active charcoal (handy if one is working in a laboratory and a lot of chemicals and material are widely available), cut the vent hose and placed the filter between the tank-outlet and the vent-opening underneath the car. The filter is mounted in the spare-tire area and completely out of sight. Since then no more problems with gasoline smell in the house. So my suggestion is not to remove the canister for your own and others health. I will post a picture of the filter and how it's mounted in the car later.
Last edited by tekenaar; 10-08-2007 at 09:41 AM. Reason: cannister - one 'n'
Definitely EX-member of the MWTE! © Mr. Corey Suggs
1960: ♥ '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 ♥ '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
1970: ♥ '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P
1970: ♥ '73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 ♥ '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
1980: ♥ '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
2000: ♥ '09 Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT "Stage 2" Turbo 5S 3.73P
As promised, pictures of how the in-line filter is mounted in the car and a picture of a spare filter I have (this spare one has a diifferent shape than the one in the car, lenght is in cm!)
Definitely EX-member of the MWTE! © Mr. Corey Suggs
I will just replace the lines to the canister and leave it in the car![]()
Growing old is mandatory, Growing up is optional
Yep - you need a canister for the reason given.
Most later model cars have nice black plastic canisters with a more sophisticated valving arangement on them to suck the fumes back out - got one off an Isuzu from a wreck for $1
GTJim
Opel Owner since last Century!
Copyright © 2000-2009
J D Henry
All Rights Reserved
Does anyone have a good part number for an aftermarket vapor canister?
Thanks,
Nathan Acree
Nathan, I did some searching and found this, that I put on Willit? It requires a mod to the bracket, but works just fine.
What I did for a charcoal cannister on Willit? was to go through the books at my local Kragens, these folks have been very helpful on both the GT and the monza, We ran the different cannister part numbers for GM looking for the cheapest that would work and came up with one for around $40. Some were over a $100, and came up with a Rochester Control Products 3-port unit. It has 3 sets of numbers on it so I'll give them all. "PA66", "20341", and "17075840-FL". The ports are labeled "VAC" "PCV", and "FUEL TANK" It is a bit larger diameter than the original cannister and all plastic with a filter element in the bottom. HTH.
Last edited by namba209 (R.I.P.); 11-05-2007 at 03:36 PM.
Ron
72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed.
75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next
Ron,
Thanks a million. Been looking for something decent at the junk yard but was coming up empy.
Btw the part number 17075840-FL minus the FL came up as a AC Delco Fuel Vapor Canister so that is a good head start. Did not get anything on the other numbers.
I'll have to go check it out.
Thanks again,
Nathan
No problem Nathan. What I did to the original bracket to fit mine in, was to cut the bracket opposite the clamping bolt, slide the cannister in, then tighten the bolt so it would clamp onto the structure and hold the cannister in place. HTH.
Ron
72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed.
75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next
Ron,
Thanks for the info, but none of my cars has the bracket. No GT I have ever worked on (8+) have ever had them. Must be one of the early things to disappear along with the fuse box cover and distributer cover
But again, the part number helped.
-Nathan
I am pretty sure I have a bracket if you want one. PM if you do.
TMK
I still have fumes, my line to canister just ends under the car by the axle. Guess I should put something on there eh?
"Being ignorant is not so much a shame, as being unwilling to learn." Benjamin Franklin
The charcoal canister is one of the last things keeping me from putting my gt back on the street.I know the line from the tank goes to one side of the canister but does the other side go to the air filter housing and if so how ?I have a weber 32/36 carb with the stock air filter housing.I don't have a good charcoal canister yet so what is the best one to use?
George, I can't say which is the best, but if the one I referred to Nathan is a good part number, then you could use that one. It has three ports, labeled "VAC" "PCV", and "FUEL TANK", so it would be easy to plumb in to your existing setup. Fuel Tank is easy, it goes to the tank vent line. PCV is also easy, it would go to the smaller of the two ports in the valve cover and VAC would go to the hose you took off the valve cover. If you have the original cannister bracket, because the cannister I referred to Nathan is a bit larger than original, you have to cut the bracket opposite the clamp bolt so that when you mount it to the structure, it will clamp on the structure and hold the cannister in place. HTH.
Ron
72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed.
75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next
This is the OEM way. (I guess, I don't have anything left of it)
Maybe not the best of advice, I think that's where I got the "not needing the cannister" theory. That and he doesn't mention the small opening in the T at the filler neck. Still the diagram and description is worth looking at.
Last edited by jvandyke; 11-06-2007 at 02:37 PM.
"Being ignorant is not so much a shame, as being unwilling to learn." Benjamin Franklin
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