What angle to reflare brake lines?

[gt crazy]

give me a little bit to trough some money together and ill let you know when i have the new lines

[markandson]

Just checked OGTS, the part you need is #4050 which is a complete brake tubing set, but they are NOT pre-formed, which means you need a brake tubing bending tool and some skill to measure and bend them correctly, you can use the old ones as guides if you are careful not to mess them up to badly when you remove them. The kit is $63.00 plus shipping. Good luck and congrats on making the right decision!!

[gt crazy]

so i have to put the bolt things on them or they already on there?
gonna probably be 2 weeks before i can get the money

[markandson]

so i have to put the bolt things on them or they already on there?
gonna probably be 2 weeks before i can get the money

The fittings (bolts) are on the lines and the lines are flared on both ends, all you have to do is bend them to fit.

[heimue]

The cost of a flaring tool... zero. Go to Autozone, Napa, Advanced Autoparts, they all have free loaner tools. You first pay what the tool set would cost, and get it back 100% when you return it. Therefore, there is no account setup involved. I have a metric flare set at home currently, and I "paid" 25$ for it. You can usually keep the tools as long as you want (I have my flaring tool for close to a year already), but if you tell'em you'll return it tomorrow or the day after, they might even holds your check and return it to you uncashed.

Dieter

[namba209 (R.I.P.)]

The fittings (bolts) are on the lines and the lines are flared on both ends, all you have to do is bend them to fit.

Quite correct Jeff, in fact they come in a package about 3-4 feet long. The longer pieces in the package are bent 180 degrees so they all fit in the package. The 180 bends were quite easy to straighten out, by judicial use of a vise and extreme care. They are mild seamless steel tubing, so the large radius bends are fairly easy to bend by hand, but short radius bends must be made with a tube bender to prevent kinking of the lines. It wasn't too hard to install in Willit?, but I've got "some" experience in installing stainless hydraulic, fuel and oil lines in aircraft. The only thing I could fault with the package was the rubber bushings, under the clamping straps, used in the original lines was missing, but I solved that by slitting some rubber hose lengthwise and slipping them over the lines and under the straps.

[yellaopelgt]

Come on guys... he's just a 16 kid with no $$$. He cant do a complete rebuild, just get her back on the road (safely I might add.)wink. I already have his address and sending the fittings. He SHOULD (hint)replace the line, pump the system up, and watch another line go "pop".I'm sure if there's not any leaks (pull the rear wheels and check the cylinders)he will do a few EMERGENCY slides to check everything is kosher.....Hopefully things go OK for him and if the other lines go bad he saw/ will learn how to do this stuff on his own. "just like we did". You guys remember the days when you were broke and runnin with less than a full deck, dont ya??? Sounds like a good kid with a good head on his shoulders, CRIPES... when I was that age... the last thing I thought about was insurance....I had girls on the brain. He's got the priorities straight.....more than I ever did... (not promoting any bad behavior...just an old guy that knows how it goes....)
Joe

[gt crazy]

my brakes worked before, its just that my master cylinder and booster went out. and i put new ones on. but when i was putting the driver side front brake line on and it wouldnt tighten down for that tight seal. so i used some muscle then the head of the bolt stripped out. i was lucky and got it off with no problem. all the other lines tighten right up it didnt make any sense. considering 1 week before it would go on the old master cylinder with ease.

Ha i don't know about any e-brake slides lol. i dont trust my rearend yet. im scared it might like fall off or something. i havent really drove car enough to trust it fully yet

[namba209 (R.I.P.)]

Joe, I hear you, big time. I was lucky at that age working in my uncle's garage. Having all the tools and getting some first class on-the-job training. But, with the brake system? Man, we just wanna be sure he's aroung for his next birthday. Yeah, it's easy to replace the line at the MC, I think that's the one with the screwed up fitting, but asking an inexperienced youngster to attempt a double flare and get it right the first time, IDK. It's just so much easier to get the right line, or one similar in length with the correct fittings and just remove and replace the whole thing. JMTCW.

[gt crazy]

im gonna probably take it to a brake shop to have them do the double flare if my dad can't fix it somehow. he has all kinds of nifty tricks to do stuff

[namba209 (R.I.P.)]

my brakes worked before, its just that my master cylinder and booster went out. and i put new ones on. but when i was putting the driver side front brake line on and it wouldnt tighten down for that tight seal. so i used some muscle then the head of the bolt stripped out. i was lucky and got it off with no problem. all the other lines tighten right up it didnt make any sense. considering 1 week before it would go on the old master cylinder with ease.

I'm hoping, from what you said, that the fitting screwed in to the MC easily for about 2-3 turns by hand, then when you put the wrench on it to torque it down, you rounded off the flats on the fitting. Now, if you barely got it started in the threads, then put the wrench on it, there is a possiblilty you've cross threaded the fitting in the MC. I sure hope I'm wrong. The only way to tell for sure if the threads are O. K. is to look at the threads of the fitting and see if there is no metal transfer in the threads, or flats spots on the threads.

[gt crazy]

nah i didnt cross thread it. i always start it off by hand and screw it till i cant do it no more then put the 10mm line wrench on it

[namba209 (R.I.P.)]

That's great to hear. Especially after you've put out the bucks for a new MC and booster.

[gt crazy]

im still gonna take the off mc and look just to be sure though. cars can work in funky ways sometimes

[Killer Texas GT]

Metric fittings which you find at the local parts house are usually the Asian metric variety, they are totally different than the European metric fittings. the thread spacing a pitch is different like night and day also the flare is different both on the line and fitting. So be sure to compare them closely to to your original brake line. And be sure to use the end you did not screw up as the example to compare with. Your best bet is togo to NAPA get the length closest to the line you are replacing or a tad longer, by the single side line bender and start at one end and work your way to the other matching your bends (the trick is to think backwards when bending it ask any electrician who bends conduit), the line and tool would set you back maybe $15 to $20 bucks and that's buying a 5' steel line to boot.

Jeff(markandson) if you use the Isuzu rearend and brakes you will need the asian fitting to tie in at the caliper hoses (put on your OGTS lines ONE END ONLY) then use european the rest of the way out. If I sent you the "T" block and lines you will need to put an asian fitting on one end of your 12" line from the torque tube to the "T" if you need a fitting let me know and I can send you some.

[markandson]

Jeff(markandson) if you use the Isuzu rearend and brakes you will need the asian fitting to tie in at the caliper hoses (put on your OGTS lines ONE END ONLY) then use european the rest of the way out. If I sent you the "T" block and lines you will need to put an asian fitting on one end of your 12" line from the torque tube to the "T" if you need a fitting let me know and I can send you some.

Rod,
Does this mean that my stainless steel hoses that I got for my original rearend setup will not work on the Isuzu calipers, sounds like NOT. What is the thread style at the caliper on Isuzu?
Jeff

[GTJIM]

Jeff,

You should be able to get wee screw-in adaptors from a (good) Brake Shop.
I think they are M10 X 1.0mm pitch - will check.

[gt crazy]

soooo.... yah..... my dad stripped the threads out of a BRAND NEW MASTER CYLINDER....

Any suggestions what you could do? atleast he paid for it not me. just one be driving for another month....

[markandson]

soooo.... yah..... my dad stripped the threads out of a BRAND NEW MASTER CYLINDER....

Any suggestions what you could do? atleast he paid for it not me. just one be driving for another month....

Sorry I've got nothing in my bag of tricks for you now, maybe someone else does, but since this post sat for a few hours with no response I have a feeling you are SOL.

[GTJIM]

Since the thread is Metric it may be possible to bore the hole out to the next SAE tapping size and the brass fitting out to fit a slightly larger brake fitting 'banjo' bolt from similar Domestic brake cylinder.

This would require careful investigation and some help from a very competent engineering tradesman. I shall do a bit of research for you and see if it possible and what sizes to use.

It might be possible to open the thread out to a larger size and use an SAE to metric screw-in adaptor (That looks just like a tiny pipe fitting ... see pic attached)

Get your Dad to sniff around your locallity to try and find an 'old' guy who has a small toolmaking business or does tricky little engineering jobs. We are about - just take a bit of finding!