I guess you could say that. It will take the slop out of it. When you hit the throttle the motion will be transferred more quickly to the throttle.
Harold
The throttle grommet goes on the accelerator linkage where there firewall is right?
Would this make my pedal a bit more "stiff(er)" since my pedal is real loose
Last edited by tekenaar; 02-07-2008 at 09:12 PM. Reason: peddle - sell/vend, pedal - lever moved with foot; more stiff = stiffer
I can't wait to finish my 1972 Opel Gt.... So I can buy another one and start all over again!
I guess you could say that. It will take the slop out of it. When you hit the throttle the motion will be transferred more quickly to the throttle.
Harold
thanks. tony p felt my peddle a couple weeks ago and said it could be because of that. i guess im gonna go buy some grommets from ogts. because its frusterating drive with a slopping peddle. and its a 10 dollar fix so why not fix it![]()
I can't wait to finish my 1972 Opel Gt.... So I can buy another one and start all over again!
The polyurethane grommets will mostly bring back the pedal throw so you will have it at WOT when the pedal is at the floor. When the original rubber grommets disintegrated you lost linkage motion that would cause it to stop prior to WOT. It may also tighten up the system so it feels more precise.
1970 Opel GT 1.9
1980 Moto Guzzi V50
2000 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo
2000 KTM 200 exc STOLEN
I replaced the RHS and LHS throttle grommets in 2006 with OGTS parts. One is red the other is black. Best to take the brackets off and use a vise to install the new ones. I used a block of wood with a 1 inch diameter hole drilled through it that I placed just behind the bracket and then pressed the new grommet in from the other side using the vise. Otherwise it is very difficult to install just using hand pressure. The throttle response is tight, smooth and low effort with the new grommets. Well worth the time to do.
what is the spring called that goes to the linkage because i have a rigged one and would like to replace it with stock.
I can't wait to finish my 1972 Opel Gt.... So I can buy another one and start all over again!
Information on adjustments to throttle linkage, is available via the page link below (scroll down to the date "June 2006", then click the 2nd link for that date):
Engine
Here's everything and how it goes together . . .
. . . and a photo of the actual parts . . .
![]()
1960: ♥ '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 ♥ '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
1970: ♥ '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P
1970: ♥ '73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 ♥ '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
1980: ♥ '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
2000: ♥ '09 Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT "Stage 2" Turbo 5S 3.73P
I just replaced those grommets / bushings on the linkage and it made a huge difference. The secondary would open very little before the replacement. Now it opens fully.
Rick
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88 Volvo 240 (Daily Driver for now)
70 Opel Gt (about complete)
65 Fastback Stang (in progress)
98 Gsx-r 750 (SOLD !!)
07 CBR 1000rr (replace above)
87 & 88 Ysr 50 (street legal pocket bikes)
I can't see how that would be bad. It would remove most if not all play in the throttle linkage. Using the poly should be fine for most of us, but if you push the throttle excessively like some of us, it sounds like a good idea. Just have to find a bearing with a small enough ID to press on and an OD that is close and just bore it to press fit.
Arguing online is the same as racing in the Special Olympics;
no matter who wins, you're both still retarded.
West Coast GT: SECONDARY!? I thought you didnt believe in using the secondary?? LOL!
TMK
It's not so much that I didn't believe in a secondary, it's just that there were so many reasons not to use one:
1. The zip-tie (emergency repair when the ball-nut went missing out near the salt flats).
2. Missing bushings long gone years ago.
3. Lost that little connector rod between the primary and secondary throttle plates.
4. Wasn't sure the old engine could handle a strong supply of fuel.
Coming east up that grade on Highway 80 out of Salt Lake City pretty much convinced me I needed, and wanted, a secondary. Getting passed by a U-Haul van towing a car damn near brought tears to my eyes.
But on the plus side; I achieved 37 miles per gallon San Francisco to Chicago.
________________________
a. Didn't think of it before, but perhaps lubricating the bushing on the passenger side (the tight one) would help lighten the throttle.
b. I found that adding the Weber closed the distance between the bracket (that the red bushing mounts into) and the ball-nut (yes, I got a new one!) on the carb. This creates some binding which will ultimately shorten the bushing's life.
I just replaced the throttle grommet, and now the when I start the car the thing immediately revs up to about 3000 rpm. If I go out and mess around with the linkage it drops down to regular idle speed, but when I stop it and start it again, same thing. Must be something sticking, but I cant figure it out. Any thoughts?
Last edited by OPELFIEND; 06-09-2008 at 09:39 AM. Reason: moved to new thread
WD-40 if it's o.k for polyurethane.
Sorry about that. Thought no one would see the first post and that I could delete it and start a new thread. Wont happen again.![]()
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