I can only guess that the rust occured because the rubber moulding failed. You can use POR-15, fiberglass or bondo for a temporary fix but the rubber moulding needs to keep the metal dry so the rusting process is slowed down
Any advice on the best way to repair? I have a flux core welder and a pop-rivit gun. This will be a daily-driver not a show car, but I don't want a water leak
Thanks
I can only guess that the rust occured because the rubber moulding failed. You can use POR-15, fiberglass or bondo for a temporary fix but the rubber moulding needs to keep the metal dry so the rusting process is slowed down
Paul "azopelnut" Heebink
1956 Studebaker Power Hawk 259 V8
1970 GT 12A-Rotary 5-speed
1972 GT 2.0, 5-speed
1973 (2) GTs, both 1.9 4-speed
1973 Ascona 4-door 1.9 4-speed A/C
1974 Manta, 1.9 Auto A/C
1975 Sportwagon 1.9 FI 4-speed A/C
1975 Fiat X19
Cut out the rust area and weld in a replacement piece .
I suspect you will find more damage after you remove this section . HTH Good luck
John
Guyopel
I have not failed - I've merely found 10,000 ways that won't work."
---Thomas Edison
It's amazing what God lets man get away with when lightning is so cheap. Mark Twain
You will need a tool to cut out the old metal. The only tool that really works good for what you need to do is a die grinder with a cut off wheel. They take quite a bit of air, but you can use a small air compressor if you aren't in a big hurry. I never could get flux core wire to work very good,( too much splatter) but maybe you will have better luck. You are going to have to weld metal back in after you get rid of the cancer. I don't see how bondo or epoxy would fill a hole that size and last for any time at all. Perhaps if you don't want to weld it you could use fiberglass cloth and resin then fill the rough with bondo. Try to leave the curved part of the metal if it is possible when you cut the rust out-it will make the finish work easier. It isn't that hard to do, just don't expect perfection if this is your first repair.
Some pics of the repair. I burned through the sheet metal on the car 5 or 6 times. I used JB weld putty and bondo to smooth things up a bit.
Last edited by 73Manta72gt; 06-17-2008 at 02:52 PM.
Jeff
'73 GT,5spd,Recaro,EDIS4 2.2 EFI by MegaSquirt, Ali Flywheel w/S10 Clutch, Electric Fan, Roller Rockers, Venolia Pistons, 6 Cyl Intake w/ Custom Injection, 15" Wheels,Lecarra,F&R Sway Bars,Custom Exhaust,1" Sport Spring,Koni Reds,Big Brakes,3 Core Ali Radiator,Hse of Colors Kandy Pagan Gold.
123 WHP @ 6800 RPM
'64 VW Karmann Ghia
'08 BMW M3
If I had to do the same job over I think brazing would be a better option than welding. The body on the car is really bad not worth the effort to restore, but it gets good mpg and is fun to drive.
Hey Helmut, I've seen that car.. It's not near as bad as you say it is! Go for the restore!![]()
Roy Bell
1973 Opel GT
74 Manta Rallye
Concord, North Carolina
Carolina Opel Club
OMC
Alot of times people think because it is a driver you can get away with half way repairs. These areas matter on any car driven or showed, they have to be fixed right, or to the point where rust will not forn anymore. What you did looks fine, and will be covered by the gasket as well. Don't shortcut repairs, because it is a driver, sometimes it has to be better than show to last longer
Keith
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