need to replace bushings in front end with poly

[StefanLee]

So it appears that my upper control arm bushings are shot on the left side. I´ve had a slight rattle in turns and other unpleasant behavior lately so I´m glad I´ve found the problem.

Im thinking it´s a good idea to replace them with poly bushings, I´ve been meaning to do it anyway.

The thing is, I don´t have all that much time on my hands, and I´m a bit worried about the transverse spring if I start to work on the lower control arms. My GT has to pass it´s bi-yearly test by the authorities within a month, and delivery time of said parts can easily be a couple of weeks. Also, summer is here and I want to use the car as much as possible, and if I´ll have to do a lot of time consuming work on the lower control arm bushings or entire front clip I´ll have to leave it until next winter.

So, what do I need to know? I've searched the site and found a lot of info, but I still have a few questions for you all. Removing the upper control arms and replacing the bushings seem pretty straightforward, and that's adressing the root of my problem. They just unbolt from the pivot point and upper ball joint, right? Anything special I need to know about that, any pitfalls?

Since the lower bushings appear to be ok, I can stop there. But I'd prefer to put poly's there too, naturally. If I use a jack to press under the leaf spring where it attaches to the lower control arm, is it easy to remove the lower control arm (and to reattach it) or do I need to do anything else? Let me know what can go wrong so I don't mess anything up. I feel I have an understanding of the procedure but I have to ask.

The leaf spring and ball joints are fine, so they'll remain for now.

Thanks for any input.

Stefan

[neuropel]

Removing the upper control arms and replacing the bushings seem pretty straightforward, and that's adressing the root of my problem. They just unbolt from the pivot point and upper ball joint, right? Anything special I need to know about that, any pitfalls?

That's pretty much it. Make special note of where all the washers are located on the upper control arm - it doesn't hurt to take some good pictures before you begin.

Since the lower bushings appear to be ok, I can stop there. But I'd prefer to put poly's there too, naturally.

By all means, while you're in there replace all of the bushings.

If I use a jack to press under the leaf spring where it attaches to the lower control arm, is it easy to remove the lower control arm (and to reattach it) or do I need to do anything else? Let me know what can go wrong so I don't mess anything up. I feel I have an understanding of the procedure but I have to ask.

Place a jack carefully under the eye of the spring so that you can carefully and slowly release the spring's tension. You'll need to make sure you have the car quite high off the ground since the spring really drops down low as the tension is released - it forms a U shape as it's removed.

The leaf spring and ball joints are fine, so they'll remain for now.

Are you certain? If you have any significant wear on the ball joints now is the time to replace them. Regarding the spring, you might consider replacing it with one of the "intermediate" springs (or similar) from one of the Opel vendors. I found the ride, handling, and overall stance of the car improved with that upgrade.

On a final note - many people prefer to remove the entire front end assembly when doing this work. It makes it a little more accessible. It's also an excellent time to replace tie rod ends, rack boots, and re-pack the grease in your rack and pinion unit. The car will drive and handle better than new afterward!

Some additional notes:
* Be sure to use the special teflon grease supplied with your poly bushings.
* If you're re-using the center sleeves from your old bushings, make sure they are clean and free of corrosion.
* Removing the rubber bushings from the control arms is a pain - one easy way to get them out is to use a small propane torch and melt them out. Then clean all the residue out of the control arm before you install the new ones.
*Consult a good service manual!
*Do your homework here - there is a lot of good information on this website for rebuilding a GT front end.

Thanks for any input.

Stefan

Good Luck!
Todd K.

[StefanLee]

Thanks Todd, that's good advice. It looks like I´ll be replacing all bushings.

I know it would be a good thing to rebuild the entire front end, but I simply don´t have the time between business trips at the moment. It'll have to wait until winter. It's better to work under zero time pressure, makes for a better result...

Stefan

[Anonymous D]

Replacing upper control arm bushings is generally a quick and easy job.
This presumes that the long bolt through the cross-member isn't rusted solid in place, and that other components aren't worn out. I would suggest doing it now, so you can enjoy your car during the Summer, rather than wait many months to start this job.

But on the lower arms, you need to check each arm's 2 vertical bolts to assure they aren't rusted in place (which is a more difficult problem to fix, if they are). Spraying these bolts with penetrating oil every day for a week (before starting disassembly), will help with their removal. You can also check the ball joints and tie rods (before you disassemble the front end), to get an idea of how much work that job will be.

Greater detail and images of procedures for GT front suspension disassembly, including dealing with tension of the transverse leaf spring, are in the December 2006 OMC Blitz.

[Wolf Spyder]

I just did this on my '88 Fiero. What should have been a 2.5 hour jobe to replace all bushings and ball joints turned into a 6.5 hour job! Once I got every thing off the car I found that the bushings had become one with the metal sleeves. This required may hours of pressing, prying cutting and burning of the old bushings. If you do not have a press do not try this job!

In the long run it was a good thing and made a great improvement. All should be done while you have the front end disassembled.

The Opel is even older and you should make sure that you have PLENTY of time to get the job done.

[opelbits]

The best way to remove the rubber part of the bushing is to drill thru the rubber in a spot or two, put a bolt thru the center sleeve and put a nut on it, then use a wrench on the bolt to put some twist on the bushing, then spray some carb and choke cleaner into the hole you drilled in the rubber. The carb and choke cleaner destroys the bond between the rubber and the outer sleeve and it just peels away, the bushing then slides out, leaving the sleeve in place and usually pretty clean. Carb and choke cleaner is stinking, but not nearly as much as burning the rubber out.

[GTJIM]

The upper control arm through bolt is usually rusted up on at least one side - look through this post:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/3a-fron...olts-urgh.html

... and do a search for "Bolt from Hell"

Good Luck - several of us have joined the "Bolt from HELL Club" though ...

[StefanLee]

Hmmm... "Bolt from Hell" doesn't sound all that comforting!

Well, there's no way around it, better grab the bull by the horns and be done with it (eventually)

I've just ordered a set of poly bushings and new sleeves from splendid parts. I hope there will be a great improvement over stock, I can´t wait! The new bushings together with the Koni reds I have lying should do a world of difference.

Stefan

[namba209 (R.I.P.)]

To check and see if you have a "bolt from hell" is really simple. Slightly loosen the nut on the UCA, then see if you can turn the bolt. If not, start using liberal amounts of penetrant/rust remover on the accessible portions of the bolt. I sure do wish you good luck on this. Been there done that. Oh Yeah!!!

[StefanLee]

All I have to say is....

...a bolt from hell has risen from the depths of the underworld to challenge me. I am confident my pure soul and piety will persevere.

I sprayed the beast in the eyes with buckets of penetrating oil, the scream was earth-shattering and I can feel I hurt him.

I have now retreated to a safer location, but as the beasts powers are weakening the upper hand will soon be mine.

Have faith in me as I will now do battle with this abomination!

I hope I will see you all on the other side.

Onwards!!!!

[neuropel]

Give it repeated shots of penetrating oil over several days. That may help weaken its will.

[StefanLee]

So I´ve made some progress! I just lowered the leaf spring (interesting and tense...but it was no biggie with the help of a hydraulic jack) and unscrewed the upper ball joint and shock absorber so the drivers side suspension is coming apart pretty nicely.

The sleeves are causing me problems though, but that was not completely unexpected...

It seems the inner sleeves have mated permanently to the bolt. I cut away the rubber on the open end of the bolt, exposing the outer portion of the inner sleeve. I tried using a wrench on it but it just slipped.

What about using a dremel to grind two faces on the sleeve so I can grip it? I don´t have a proper propane torch but I think I´ll get a smaller kind and let it rip.

I am a little concerned about the heat though, how much do I need to heat it? there are brake lines right next to it so.... The other side (where the bolt head is) is not exposed like the other, so I´m a little stumped there... What should I do, just torch the bolt head and surrounding rubber?

There is a bit of lateral play in the upper A-arm, and that´s the primary reason the suspension is in pieces right now. The play is not in the bushings though as I expected, but instead in the central tube holding the crossbolt. What can be wrong in there? I can´t see since the a-arm is still obscuring the view, but it would be nice to know what to expect. What are the usual points of wear?

Stefan

[West Coast GT]

All I have to say is....

...a bolt from hell has risen from the depths of the underworld to challenge me. I am confident my pure soul and piety will persevere.

I sprayed the beast in the eyes with buckets of penetrating oil, the scream was earth-shattering and I can feel I hurt him.

I have now retreated to a safer location, but as the beasts powers are weakening the upper hand will soon be mine.

Have faith in me as I will now do battle with this abomination!

I hope I will see you all on the other side.

Onwards!!!!

Grendel is a tough beast indeed, but have great faith Beowulf, for you will persevere and slay the foul thing.

[blancojp]

The suspension work has been performed by my hands many times and always there is a surprise waiting.

I always insert two C clamps to hold the spring in place. Then I loosen everything and remove both arms to replace the bushings. The top arm is easy and should not take you more than 20 minutes to do. The bottom arm is the hard part and I always use a hole saw to eat up the bushing enough so it can come out without problems.

The famous bolt from hell I have tangled with many times. I was able to master a technique which was handed down from my Gargoyles and works quite well. Eventhough the original formula required dry ice, Spray Freeze from Radio Shack works even better.

1) Lubricate the crap out of the area, the more you are able to get in, the better and let it sit overnight.
2) Using a regular plumber's torch, heat both ends of the bolt followed by heating the center. Two minutes at each location is more than enough.
3) Using "Spray Freeze", spray the complete area until is turns white. I normally spray the complete can.
4) Rapidly put a 19mm socket on your air gun and try to make the bolt turn. Go counter clockwise first and then clockwise, spraying WD40 on it as it turns.

If you are lucky (90 percent of the time) the bolt will come out in one piece and can be re-used after cleaning. If not (Murphy's 10 percent), the bolt will brake at the point where it is rusted and just a tad more work needs to be performed.

This has worked for me in all past projects I have worked on.

[StefanLee]

The first deamon is slain! Too bad though that an even greater beast is staring down on me!

I got the crossbolt out on the upper drivers side, but I can now see that there is a fair amount of play between the (visually worn) crossbolt and tube, NO!!!

The bolt needs replacing and that will take some of the play out, I haven´t measured the wear on the bolt yet. But what if there is still play (how much is allowed?)

In short, how screwed am I? I´m thinking of getting new bolts, and if the play is still noticable to perhaps drill out the tube slightly and sleeve the bolt with a thin (.5-1mm) tube.

What size are the bolts, are they some metric standard or very Opel-specific?

Stupid or not?

Stefan

[RallyBob]

The first deamon is slain! Too bad though that an even greater beast is staring down on me!

I got the crossbolt out on the upper drivers side, but I can now see that there is a fair amount of play between the (visually worn) crossbolt and tube, NO!!!

The bolt needs replacing and that will take some of the play out, I haven´t measured the wear on the bolt yet. But what if there is still play (how much is allowed?)
In short, how screwed am I? I´m thinking of getting new bolts, and if the play is still noticable to perhaps drill out the tube slightly and sleeve the bolt with a thin (.5-1mm) tube.

What size are the bolts, are they some metric standard or very Opel-specific?

Stupid or not?

Stefan

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but usually when there is play in the upper cross-sleeve, the sleeve is bad...not the bolt! They become elongated internally. I have replaced MANY of them in GT's over the years...very common wear area! I grind away the welds, and fit a new piece of metric tubing in place. Make sure if you do this the alignment is the same as the other side (front-to-rear). This establishes the vehicle's baseline caster setting.

Bob

[StefanLee]

Awwwww......

It figures. Well, time to bite it bigtime then. Well, what would life be without problems to solve?

Stefan

[GTJIM]

What size are the bolts, are they some metric standard or very Opel-specific?
Stefan

Those bolts are looooong 10.9 (medium/high tensile) grade Metric bolts - McMaster-Carr don't list any that grade which are that long.

OGTS has them listed as PN. 3018 Bolt, Upper Control Arm .... $15.00 each.

I have also found the Quinton-Hazel Kits for Opels on EBay.UK from time to time - for GT and Kadetts; both the same part used.

[StefanLee]

I have solved the problem with play in the upper cross-sleeve.

Since I am using PU bushings, I thought of something new. I used chemical metal to cast a new channel around the bolt in the cross-sleeve. It didn´t take much to fill out the worn parts. I didn´t glue the bolt in, naturally. The bolt can spin in the cross-sleeve.

Since the PU bushing rotates around the inner sleeve of the bushing, there is no movement in the crossbolt when the a-arm moves. The bolt is securely fastened by the nut and inner sleeves, so it sits there tight.

There will be no rotational wear on the chemical metal, and because of that I think it will stand up nicely. It is a temporary solution since I am planning on reinforcing the damper towers and install coilovers next winter, a project now more urgent because of the worn cross-sleeve.

I have installed the PU bushings and mounted the a-arm, and it is very tight with no play whatsoever.

Right now I am trying to figure out how to reinstall the lower a-arm. It is kind of difficult to line up the two vertical bolts with the mount while incrementally pushing the leaf spring up.

Any good tips on that?

Stefan

[jeff denton]

Drop some long bolts down from the top to use as guides while jacking up on the spring. If this causes argument because it isn't possible, I'm sorry. It may only work on my car, which has been modified a little...