I would be interested also to find out if doing it harmfull.
Can't see why.
Been doing it this way since I got my cars.
Can I jack the entire rear of the GT by using the differential as a single jack point without creating undue stress or destruction?
I prefer to lift the front of the car with a single jack point (cross member). It saves time plus it frees up the two side jack points for the jack stands.
I'm looking for the same convenience in lifting the rear, but I've got a sneaking suspicion this isn't very good for the diff. or axle.
Thanks in advance.
I would be interested also to find out if doing it harmfull.
Can't see why.
Been doing it this way since I got my cars.
Projekt 2010 - Der OPEL GT
1971 Opel GT (Green) 10/28/06 VIN: 77 232 5469 Build date: 10/70
1972 Opel GT ..(Red) .05/11/07 VIN: 77 237 3202 Build date: 11/71
That's not rust, that's Patina.
If it don't rain, I'll be there.
Other Cars:
2006 Solstice (Aggressive)
2010 Fusion Hybrid (White)
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Link to some Opel Cruise Nights Slide Shows
Absolutely, the center of the differential is a great place to jack the car from. It is virtually the strongest point on the car. I would never hesitate doing this.
1970 Opel GT 1.9
1980 Moto Guzzi V50
2000 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo
2000 KTM 200 exc STOLEN
Yes this works , just put you jack stands or supports on the axle housing or under the springs to keep the rear shocks from being pulled down to max. length . HTH
John
Guyopel
I have not failed - I've merely found 10,000 ways that won't work."
---Thomas Edison
It's amazing what God lets man get away with when lightning is so cheap. Mark Twain
The differential is in fact the best point in the rear of your Opel to jack it up. I much rather do that than dent or scratch any rocker panels. Remember, the rear axle is made to carry the load of the car!
Dieter
To amplify what the others have said, the whole differential is one-piece cast iron assembly, so you can jack up the center section with no problem. I've had to use it to jack up the rear-end after the front was off the ground using jack stands under the jacking points. You can't use the OEM jack to raise one side, with the front in the air, because the whole body will liift and shift, which may cause the front to fall off the stands.
Ron
72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed.
75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next
Thanks guys.
My fear had been that the load was designed to be supported through the springs to the outer portion of the axle (shear).
And, that by jacking the diff, which normally hangs from the drive shaft & axles, the car's weight would be shifted so that it loads the outer axle and transfers to the diff creating a moment on the gears within the differential.
I've been told "Don't over-think it, just do it". This must be one of those times.
Again, thanks. I won't worry about it, and I'll save lots of time by lifting the entire rear-end at once. Plus, I won't have to twist the body by jacking a corner.
I have seen a couple of truck axles ruined by jacking in the center of the diff, but I think on most Opels it would be fine. Those trucks were heavy ones with utility bodies on the back, and well loaded-down, and when jacked up in the center of the axle the weld joints where the steel tubes are attached to the center of the axle flexed enough to crack and bend.
Try figuring that failure out 1000 miles later when the differential suddenly fails. It wasn't easy.
1958 Rekord Sedan, 1958 Olympia Wagon, 1959 Opel Olympia Sedan, 1967 Kadett Coupe, 1967 Admiral Sedan 4L CIH-6, 1968 Kadett fastback 1.1L, 1970 Kadett Wagon Turbo 2.2L, 1971 Kadett Sedan 1.1L, 1975 Manta Wagon 4.3L V-6
I'm afraid I'd have to be restrained from instantly bopping you right smack up side the head if I ever catch you doing that to my car, and especially a truck.![]()
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