Ignition Switch Problem

[Gordy]

Will tear into it this week end but have an unusual problem with a 1970 GT. When the key is turned to the "on "position, the engine immediately begins to crank and start, as you would expect it to do in the "start " position. When the key is turned back towards the off position the car dies (as you would expect it to do). I would assume the ignition switch is gone out on the car. I have a spare column with a good switch, so I guess it becomes a donor. Any other thoughts? Is it easier to switch the switch by pulling the steering wheel from it's hub or taking things apart from the foremost part of the column? Thanks, Gordy

[BDD]

For the heck of it you could also check that the wire that goes from the fuse box to the positive terminal of the coil is attached properly at both ends and that the fuse there is intact. This is where the original resistor cable was connected in the schematic. If this wire is disconnected the starter will engage, the engine will start and then immediately die when the key is turned back.

[namba209 (R.I.P.)]

Gordy, how about checking to see if your switch is bad? Disconnect the White plug from the steering column at the fuse box, and check the plug from the column, not the one attached to the fuse box, with a VOM in the OHM position and the key in the ON position, there should be continuity from the Red wire in the plug to the Black wire. From what you said, the switch is good in the start position, so this will check the Run position. If there is continuity between the two wires, your switch is O.K. Connect the plug back in the fuse panel, then with the key in the Run position, check the last 3 fuses in the gang of 4 fuses and see if you have battery voltage at each one. If you have voltage, that also means your switch is good. Then it's time to check the resistor wire BDD was referring to.

If your switch is bad, then you have two options: Replace it with the donor you have, but you'll have to swap out the tumblers if you don't have a key for it, if you swap the steering columns. I would do the above check with the donor switch before going to the hassle of swapping the switch or column, though. The second option, if both switches are bad, is send one or both to OGTS to be repaired. HTH.

[baronbors]

You might invest in an OTTOSTART after you figure out the problem and you probably will never have a starting switch problem again- or at least for a long long time

[Gordy]

Thanks for the tips and advice guys! You are all the best!

[Anonymous D]

While the information about testing the resistance across the switch terminals is helpful (to learn the condition of the switch), the results are not definitive as to the actual cause of your symptoms. A good working switch that is installed incorrectly (with the cross-shaped connector, rotated 90 degrees off) will give you the exact same result as was described. Links to downloads of diagnostic procedures (dated January & April 2006) that concern this, are here: Electrical System

[Gordy]

All I've been able to check so far is that the wire (clear resistor wire from #3 fuse in from left, running to + of coil is intact (continuity test from fuse box to coil). Will begin tests on white connector from steering column tomorrow.

[mtfred99]

I just had the same problem last week. I sent my starter switch in to opelgtsource and the repaired the switch and it works like new. Its not that hard to replace.

[Gordy]

Are you saying it could be the starter itself??

[namba209 (R.I.P.)]

Gordy, your starter is not suspect, because it does start the engine, if momentarily. mtfred99, probably is referring to the ignition switch, he sent to OGTS. One other check I forgot to mention, check voltage at the + terminal of the coil, with the key on. It should be around 9 volts +/-. So far, it appears your resistor wire is O.K., so that leaves the fuse panel connections or the switch itself.