On the way for painting

[Ray Morley]

The deck showed up today to take my 70 Kadett Rallye in for bodywork and paint.

I shall post additional photos as the project progresses.

[Paul]

Wow.... Looks like a Mazda RX-2

[Ray Morley]

Here are a couple of snaps of the Kadett in the shop. I will post more pics as the work continues.

[Sparky73]

Could just be the lighting in the pictures, but did the clear coat get sanded off before the body filler was applied? Seems strange to start filling dents and such with that much paint left on the car.

Also, what kind of lift/jack is that under the car? Definitely looks like something I could use.. depending on the cost. With the fluid underneath of that, I'm guessing it's hydraulic?

[opelspyder]

I was going to comment the same. The paint should fully be removed to apply body filler. Should be bare metal. It appears they are going to just paint over the old paint. This could lead to dissaster not too long from now.
1. The original paint may not intermix with the new chemicals in the paints, and LIFT later
2. Some say that if the original paint is nice, its a good base, as it has not lifted, or caused any problems. These cars are too old fto have base clear technology from the factory and still would recommend stripping the paint and starting with a modern primer. Some were Enamel and some were Acrylic Lacquer. I don't know if the new stuff would stick as well to it or not.


I don't know what you were quoted to paint the car either, and they may be trying to save you money this way. It may turn out okay, just know there are risks to doing it that way, and could mean doing over again.
Keith

[Ray Morley]

The jack he uses is actually pretty nice and its hydraulic............hence the puddle under the fitting. I think he paid $2500.00 for it.

My car has no rust at all on the body and it was sanded to bare metal (where you see the filler) prior to the fill being applied. He is going to fix all of the dents and dings first and then strip as much of the original paint off.

He finds its easier to see 'the lines' of the car with as much paint on it as possible during the initial repairs.

This fellow does amazing work and many prize winning show cars have come out of his shop.

[opelspyder]

As long as he is removing the original paint, that can give you a better feeling when sleeping at night for sure. I am glad to hear that. I know what he means on seeing the body lines to see the dents and such, I have a different order in doing that is all. I tend to skim coat to make sure all lows are leveled out, then blocking down the primers will fine tune these lows as well. The car looks to be straight for sure, looks identical to the one I just picked up and working on to get driving. Are you going with the original orange? I often thought an even brighter shade of the color would be better myself, but then you have to paint everything.
Keith

[Ray Morley]

Yes, I will go with the original Rallye Orange paint formula.

The car will be totally Rallye Orange. I do not plan to do any black on it at all. It will have black body side moldings put on it and they will probably be at least 2" wide or maybe a bit wider. Maybe some nice black accent pin stripes too.

I will also not be putting the Fog Lamps back in. The ones I have (the originals) are in rough shape. The wires will have connectors on them and then taped just in case I find a nice pair of lamps for later installation.

[Ray Morley]

Its out of the paint shop and looks really nice. I plan to have it home in a few days and I will post photos of the completed project with all of the bumpers and chrome on.

[opelspyder]

Be sure to clean out what overspray you can from the radiator-seems like 5 minutes of taping up could have saved 1 hour of labor-ask me how I know. I can't wait to get this car in my shop to this point.
Keith

[blancojp]

Its out of the paint shop and looks really nice. I plan to have it home in a few days and I will post photos of the completed project with all of the bumpers and chrome on.

Sometimes it better to fill and then sand to maintain perspective on how the vehicle looks. If the car has no rust, it makes sense since the panels have good sealeant under the paint and you might want to keep it to reduce work. The second reason to do it this way is to minimize block sanding and warpage which it looks you have very little on the car.

What you might want to do before you start assembly is to color sand the car and then a full polish. You will get an unbeliable result when you do this. On Stealth, I tinted the primer and added one coat of clear to get a feel of what the car will look like with the proposed color. I can then assemble all of the custom stuff, verify fit and operation then block sand and paint when it is convenient. I know this is alot of double work but at least I get to drive the car sooner while taking care of little bugs here and there.

Good luck and keep on Opeling.

[Gordy]

Any pics of the completed car now? Like to see how it looks. Gordy