Water Choke Issues on a Weber

[wlkelley3]

I bought a used Weber 32/36 DGV w/water choke a while back to install on my car during resto. Went with water choke as it was on the Weber I bought which was cheap and I never had issues with the Solex water choke. Anyway, I rebuilt the carb (desperately needed it) and installed it. Now the car will start but won't stay running, which I believe vacuum leaks to be part of the problem but I think the choke is a contributing factor. I couldn't tell when working on the car by myself but got some help and we found out that the choke plates just flop around. The engine will start with the choke open and as soon as it starts the venturi vacuum closes the choke and the engine dies. I learned about water choke on the Solex years ago and it worked. Even figured out how to adjust it. But this one seems to have a weak spring inside the choke as adjusting it has no effect. Think I figured out why the Weber was so cheap, only paid $70 for it off of eBay last year.

Anyway, my question is can I replace the water choke with a manual choke? Or do I have to replace the water choke components? This is frustrating as I've been working on the resto for a couple years and have it all back together now. This is the only thing keeping it off of the road and I've missed 3 shows I wanted to take it too. I'm almost to the point of rebuilding the Solex and putting it back on.

[hrcollinsjr]

Wendell,

I believe there is a kit to convert an automatic choke to a manual choke. You can easily convert the water to an electric choke or vice versa.

I believe your adjustments are off. Venturi vacuum should pull the choke open shouldn't it? If the choke isn't completely open when you rev the engine the choke should suck open even more because of the extra air flow.

Harold

[wrench459]

I've got a weber electric choke that is going unused.
Only one string attached... a small donation to Gary to help keep the site up.
PM me if your interested.

[wlkelley3]

I've got a weber electric choke that is going unused.
Only one string attached... a small donation to Gary to help keep the site up.
PM me if your interested.

Interested. PM sent.

[traytodd]

I may be wrong but I think the only difference between the water and electric chokes is the outer housing. One contains an electric coil to heat the bimetallic strip-spring and the the other water from the engine. Is the spring properly engaged by the pin that actuates the choke? If the spring is on the wrong side, it will not actuate the choke. Also there is a lever mechanism that connects the choke plate shaft to the fast idle cam that has a small snap ring. If this is dissengaged, the choke plate will free float as descibed. The third possibilty is a broken choke spring.

Terry

[wlkelley3]

I may be wrong but I think the only difference between the water and electric chokes is the outer housing. One contains an electric coil to heat the bimetallic strip-spring and the the other water from the engine. Is the spring properly engaged by the pin that actuates the choke? If the spring is on the wrong side, it will not actuate the choke. Also there is a lever mechanism that connects the choke plate shaft to the fast idle cam that has a small snap ring. If this is dissengaged, the choke plate will free float as descibed. The third possibilty is a broken choke spring.

Terry

Is the spring properly engaged by the pin that actuates the choke? Yes

Also there is a lever mechanism that connects the choke plate shaft to the fast idle cam that has a small snap ring. If this is dissengaged, the choke plate will free float as descibed. Small snap ring present and accounted for, in other words there and installed.

The third possibilty is a broken choke spring. Not that I can tell, no broken springs.

I am wondering about the linkage behind the water choke housing being backwards as that seems to be where the issue is.

[Gordy]

OGTS has the conversion to electric from water for the Weber. Easy to install and cleans up all the God forsaken extra plumbing in that area!

[tekenaar]

. . . not mentioned and something else to consider, there's also a considerable OD size difference between the Solex and Weber's choke water connectors, Webers are much larger and you'd have to adapt the hoses to the much smaller size of the Solex heater hose T's . . .

[wlkelley3]

Yep, noticed that and took the appropriate measures to adapt the larger hose size. It's the same size as the rest of the heater hoses. That isn't the issue, the choke butterflies seem to be working backwards. When sitting on the fast idle lobe, the butterflies are all the way open and when kicked off they close. Took it apart yesterday and trying to figure out how to reverse the linkage by the fast idle lobe. That's where the problem seem to be. I think if I rotate the linkage 180-degrees the butterflies would work in the right direction. The problem is I haven't figured out the linkage with that circle spring and how it will react with the fast idle cam. I think it would interfere, but haven't tried it yet. I'm studying it and thinking it over so I won't break anything.

[tomking]

I have never seen a water choke, but if the spring is the same as the electric choke, just turn the spring around. You said it was working backwards I think?? then the spring is on backwards.

[hrcollinsjr]

. . . there's also a considerable OD size difference between the Solex and Weber's choke water connectors, Webers are much larger and you'd have to adapt the hoses to the much smaller size of the Solex heater hose T's . . .

Only the TX ones.

Harold

[namba209 (R.I.P.)]

Tom, just a little suggestion. Look at the spring and see how it's wound, then understand when the temp gets cold the spring will wind up and as the temp increases it will unwind. That should give you an indication of how the spring is supposed to be hooked up to the choke operating mechanism, either water or electric. HTH.

[tomking]

Only the TX ones.

Harold

Is that a Sol-er or Web-ex choke??

[hrcollinsjr]

Is that a Sol-er or Web-ex choke??

Weber is cast into the bottom one, but they are both Weber chokes. I sent Wendell a picture of the backside of a choke a few days ago to help him determine it the spring was backwards or not.

Harold

[bigjim5551212]

if the choke plates are flopping around, then there is connection missing, or missing parts. We have a manual conversion for the auto choke, but still you need the parts in place for everything to work. There is vacuum going to the choke. You could have a blown pull off diaphragm as well. There is also a small o ring that goes between the housing of the carb and the choke mechanism. you have to look at exploded views carefully to check if you have parts missing.

If you need help, give me a call. 604 879 6288

[tobytj]

As discussed above the weber water choke to electric choke is a very easy conversion. You just need to remove the 3 screws holding the annulus ring and change the stoves.

Be careful of different part numbers. I have had electric "stove" units supposedly for a 32/36 supplied that were actially for a 34ADM. They are different. The one you want has a tubular end connection on the end of the bi metal spring to rest of the choke mechanism. Don't dispair if you get the wrong one cos you can use the old water staove bimetal spring by carefully opening the slot on the copper mount for the bi metal spring.

P.S. Don't touch a 34 ADM with barge pole - it is a dog of a carby.

[BQS4]

P.S. Don't touch a 34 ADM with barge pole - it is a dog of a carby.

Sort of like the way a lot of us feel about the OEM solex...

[West Coast GT]

I've decided to convert the Weber 32/36 from water choke to electric. This is reducing the rats' nest of hoses that has always irritated me. To illustrate, I've reduced the number of hose clamps by 9, and eliminated both Tee's.

I considered by-passing the heater core altogether, but figured there might be a day I'm on a road trip and need a defroster.

Has anyone on the west coast done away with heating altogether? And did you find a benefit or did it come back to bite you?