Fuel flow from gas tank

[wlkelley3]

OK, where is the thread on fixing fuel tank outlet flow? I know I've read it before and need to again as I now have that problem. Got the Weber fixed and ready to crank and noticed junk in the inline filter. So I replaced it today and tried cranking it. No Go. And the filter didn't fill up so I checked the tank. No flow out when I removed the line. Worked on it some with a piece of twisted safety wire and compressed air (removed gas cap during this) and finally got some flow out. Apparently not enough to fill the filter and carb yet. Do I keep on going with wire into the tank? I added a couple gallons of premium fuel and gas treatment to help desolve some of the fuel clogging.

The gas tank was about the only thing I left alone during the resto. Guess I should have removed it and cleaned it while the car was apart. Oh well, Hindsight is 20/20.

[markandson]

Your problem is the fuel sock which is a fine mesh strainer that is at the outlet. You have to remove the line from the bottom of the tank, which means draining the tank then you poke up into the tank with a tool without causing any sparks and then you reconnect with an inline filter installed.

[tekenaar]

[ungermm]

You probably have a lot of rust flakes coating the sock in the gas tank. Punching through the sock and then pulling it back through the outlet is one way to get fuel flow restored. I also remember that someone had posted a method to cut the sock with a modified L shaped hacksaw blade at the base before pulling it through the outlet. After removing the sock, you'll need to flush as much of the rust inside the tank as possible and then use a cheap see though filter mounted near the tank. You'll want to mount it where quick and easy future changes are possible. For chronic clogging problems, you'll want to have the tank removed, cleaned and treated, or replaced.
Jerry

[tekenaar]

You probably have a lot of rust flakes coating the sock in the gas tank. Punching through the sock and then pulling it back through the outlet is one way to get fuel flow restored. I also remember that someone had posted a method to cut the sock with a modified L shaped hacksaw blade at the base before pulling it through the outlet. After removing the sock, you'll need to flush as much of the rust inside the tank as possible and then use a cheap see though filter mounted near the tank. You'll want to mount it where quick and easy future changes are possible. For chronic clogging problems, you'll want to have the tank removed, cleaned and treated, or replaced.
Jerry

. . . did you even look at my pic in the previous post?

[ungermm]

. . . did you even look at my pic in the previous post?

Well excusssse me...Show a little respect. I don't appreciate being talked to like that. Your diagram doesn't explain the process. Of all people I would think a cunning linguist would expound a little bit.
Nice diagram though. However, not everyone is going to know what it means. Maybe a link to the thread where it is posted would be of value.
Jerry.

[Dale .D]

Good for you! There are a few very knowledgeable people on this site that are on the sarcastic side or don't have allot of patience for others that are in need of learning more about these cars. As they if you don't have anything nice to say !!!!!!!!

[tekenaar]

You probably have a lot of rust flakes coating the sock in the gas tank. Punching through the sock and then pulling it back through the outlet is one way to get fuel flow restored. I also remember that someone had posted a method to cut the sock with a modified L shaped hacksaw blade at the base before pulling it through the outlet. After removing the sock, you'll need to flush as much of the rust inside the tank as possible and then use a cheap see though filter mounted near the tank. You'll want to mount it where quick and easy future changes are possible. For chronic clogging problems, you'll want to have the tank removed, cleaned and treated, or replaced.
Jerry

Well excusssse me...Show a little respect. I don't appreciate being talked to like that. Your diagram doesn't explain the process. Of all people I would think a cunning linguist would expound a little bit.
Nice diagram though. However, not everyone is going to know what it means. Maybe a link to the thread where it is posted would be of value.
Jerry.

. . . so, besides posting the pic that details your statement, you want me to "Search" for you as well then?!

. . . as Dale alluded to in his next post, I would suggest that including "Search first" will greatly accelerate that wished-for learning process. Since this site's inception over six years ago, most every Opel topic has been discussed in detail in at least one thread, many of my posts/threads with embedded/linked images to help the "Opel newbies" here . . . . and many subjects are discussed in multiple threads.

And Dale, since Jerry "remember[ed] that someone had posted a method . . . " and left it at that in his post, it suddenly becomes my responsibility to find the link?!

As Jerry, himself, so eloquently said, "Well excusssse me..." . . . but, no effort on your part does not constitute an automatic obligation on my part!

[opel kid]

come on guys there is no need to argue, you all answered his question and that is what matters

[wlkelley3]

Well, I've read enough on this forum to figure out that was my problem. What I'm looking for is how to get to it. I can't find direction to do it. How do the line under the car at the bottom of the tank come out? Does it unscrew or just pull it straight out? I'd really prefer to do the job once and right the first time. All anyone says is to remove the sock but doesn't say how to get to the sock. The pic shows a threaded fitting. Can I get to that threaded fitting from under the car? And what do I have to remove to get to it.

I'm looking for more detailed instructions on how to get to the sock so I won't damage anything when I try to get to the sock. After everything is apart I can handle the sock part.

[BQS4]

If yours is still there, there is a rubber boot that covers/seals the line coming out of the tank. If it's gone, then you should bearly be able to see the flats for the threaded "nut" that holds the tube to the bottom of the tank. This is where Paul suggested soaking in "PB Blaster" for a few days before attempting to try and turn it out. It will take some creativity to make a few tools for this. Just to hopefully get the tube off, you have to get a cheap deep well socket and grind a slot in it to allow the tube to stick out while the socket hopefully breaks free the threaded nut. If all goes well, then, according to Tekenaar's pic, you get a parts pick up tool or claw, and make a "L" shaped sharp cutting tool and cut the sock off, and pull it out. Then get OGTS's replacement piece and redo the connection correctly. Then add an in-line filter back by the tank, and one just before the carb. It all sounds complicated, but, it's just patience and perserverance.

[Gumby]

..."Search first" will greatly accellerate that wished-for learning process.

It's rare to see you misspell a word :P

Thread related - Does anyone know the specific thread type of the fuel outlet fitting?

[wlkelley3]

If yours is still there, there is a rubber boot that covers/seals the line coming out of the tank. If it's gone, then you should bearly be able to see the flats for the threaded "nut" that holds the tube to the bottom of the tank. This is where Paul suggested soaking in "PB Blaster" for a few days before attempting to try and turn it out. It will take some creativity to make a few tools for this. Just to hopefully get the tube off, you have to get a cheap deep well socket and grind a slot in it to allow the tube to stick out while the socket hopefully breaks free the threaded nut. If all goes well, then, according to Tekenaar's pic, you get a parts pick up tool or claw, and make a "L" shaped sharp cutting tool and cut the sock off, and pull it out. Then get OGTS's replacement piece and redo the connection correctly. Then add an in-line filter back by the tank, and one just before the carb. It all sounds complicated, but, it's just patience and perserverance.

This is what I was looking for! Thanks!!! And yes, the rubber boot is still there...sortof. It's not in very good shape but it's there. I didn't want to remove it and have gas dump on me. Now I know how to get access to it and when I'll be dumped on by gas.

[BQS4]

Well the part about soaking it with PB Blaster for a few days is the key. DO IT, it'll help.

[yellaopelgt]

Having personally had gas dumped in my face, I might suggest disconnecting the fuel line further down from the tank. IE: before the fuel pump....or somewhere that might be a bit more easy to get to. You dont really need to disconnect it right at the tank.....gravity will get the majority of it out for you. You WILL however get an arm-full regardless of where you disconnect it...
HTH
Joe

[namba209 (R.I.P.)]

Having personally had gas dumped in my face, I might suggest disconnecting the fuel line further down from the tank. IE: before the fuel pump....or somewhere that might be a bit more easy to get to. You dont really need to disconnect it right at the tank.....gravity will get the majority of it out for you. You WILL however get an arm-full regardless of where you disconnect it...
HTH
Joe

Joe, I've had fair good luck using a small pair of Vise Grips and squeeze the rubber hose closed, before I remove it from the plastic line. It may dribble some fuel out, but it's a lot better than dumping it out full force from the steel line. Of course a better solution would be to siphon out the majority of fuel before you disconnect the line.

[wlkelley3]

I don't think that is the point I'll have gas dumped on me. Right now I can disconnect the rubber fuel line at the tank and NO fuel comes out. I know there is 3-4 gallons of gas in there but it won't come out. I know the metal fuel line from the tank is plugged up some as I rane a piece of wire up it and it gets stuck before the tank. I figure the sock is not helping this problem and if I have to remove the line to get it unplugged then I might as well do the sock also and install an inline filter at the tank. I believe I'll have gas dumped on me when I remove the fitting from the tank. Knowing when and being prepared for it will help.

[yellaopelgt]

I don't think that is the point I'll have gas dumped on me. Right now I can disconnect the rubber fuel line at the tank and NO fuel comes out. I know there is 3-4 gallons of gas in there but it won't come out. I know the metal fuel line from the tank is plugged up some as I rane a piece of wire up it and it gets stuck before the tank. I figure the sock is not helping this problem and if I have to remove the line to get it unplugged then I might as well do the sock also and install an inline filter at the tank. I believe I'll have gas dumped on me when I remove the fitting from the tank. Knowing when and being prepared for it will help.

That stinks..........better get your scuba gear on before you try and tackle that.As Ron suggested...siphon it out best you can ahead of time then. Be safe and do it outside!!

[Dennis Texas]

I know there is 3-4 gallons of gas in there but it won't come out. .

Try jacking drivers side of car up 3 or 4 gallons is not the much, I would suggest as others to try to siphon the remaining gas out then jack up the whole left (drivers side) of car up remaining gas should run to opposite side of the tank and allow you to remove the connector without worrying about be bathed in the old gas.

[grslightng02]

I bought my '70 GT after it had been sitting for at least a year or two unused and figured I wanted to make sure the fuel system was clean, and do things right the first time. Although my sock filter was not clogged, after reading that this filter can be problematic, I decided to remove it. Here are my suggestions after having recently tackled this project.

1. Remove the flexible fuel line from the metal outlet tube "L" shaped under the gas tank.

2. With a wrench or set of pliers loosen the nut that attaches the "L" shaped tubing to the gas tank and remove the tubing.

3. With whatever homemade tool you decide to try, coat hanger/needle nose pliers/saw blade...etc push up into the opening where you just removed the tubing and puncture the mesh filter, allowing the fuel to flow out. Keep a gas can or bucket handy for the gas to flow into.

**Here is where you may scratch your head. I feel anything worth doing is worth doing right THE FIRST TIME! Since the car is more than 30 years old it's likely you may have rust of debris in the fuel tank, and simply puncturing the fuel sock and pulling it out through the bottom may temporarily solve your problem it may also leave more problems to come. I suggest removing the tank to clean and inspect. This also makes it easier to see what condition your tank is in, and easier to see if you still have any of the fuel sock left to remove. Removing the fuel tank is an involved project though.**

4. Open the vinyl flap in the cargo area. Remove Spare tire and Jack. Remove the wood shelf that supports the spare tire and jack. There are screws/bolts on the side of the wood shelf near the wheel well. Once you have removed the wood shelf from behind the cargo area, you MUST remove the brackets that supported the wood shelf. The bolts that hold them in place are accesible from the outer part of the rear wheel well. Failure to remove these brackets will make pulling the tank out impossible! Remove the four bolts that hold that tank in place, two on each side.

***STOP!*** . . . before you go any further take a picture of how all the hoses are hooked up to the tank. There are a series of smaller venting hoses that are hooked up to the right and left side of the tank, and they then meet and connect near the hose near the filler neck. Having a picture of how to reconnect these later will be priceless.***

Detach the small venting lines from the tank. Detach the large hose from the filler neck, you may need to just cut the old hose with an exacto to remove it and buy a new hose later. Remove the electric wire from the fuel gauge sender that sits on the top center of the tank. Once this has been done you should be able to finagle the tank out of the rear of the car.

5. Give your tank a few hours or a day to dry out and vent. With a screwdriver remove the fuel sender from the top of the tank. With a flashlight inspect the condition of the inside of the tank, noting whether you have rust or sludge built up in the tank. If you do, you may want to go to your local hardware store and find a chemical treatment to clean it out, or take it to your local radiator store and have them clean the tank for you. As you shine the flashlight down into the tank you will see the small cone shaped wire mesh filter at the bottom of the tank. Be sure to remove all of the mesh filter, leaving part of it in there may break off and later clog your tank or fuel line again! This would be an excellent time to sand down the outside of your tank, be sure to sand any rusty areas back down to bare metal and remove as much rust as possible. I suggest a RustOleum Primer and RustOleum Gloss Black Paint.

6. Now that the tank has been cleaned, primered and repainted, reinstall the fuel sender (you may want to consider installing a new sender at this time, one less thing to replace later.) Refinagle the tank back into place in the car. Be sure to remove all the old small venting lines and either go to the local hardware store and buy your own fuel grade clear or solid rubber lines or order from OGTS. Cut your new lines to the same length as the old lines. Cut and replace one line at a time and label each new line so you don't end up with all sorts of hoses, not remembering where they go. When you cut your new lines give yourself a few extra inches on each line (the old tubing may have shrunk over the years or simply wasted away.) I suggest tighetening all the new hoses with hose clamps. Attach your NEW filler neck hose to the tank and filler neck BEFORE you bolt the tank back into place. This will allow you to move the tank around as you fanangle the large hose into place. I would also suggest large hose clamps to fit around the new filler neck hose. Reattach the electric wire to the fuel sender. Once the filler neck hose and venting hoses (trimmed) are in place mounted correctly bolt the tank in securely. Reattach the brackets that hold the wood spare tire tray in place.

6. Make sure the "L" shaped metal tubing that comes off the bottom of the tank is clean and clear. Reinstall the outlet tube to the bottom of the tank.
Some people suggest installing a fuel filter at the rear of the car just off the tank...you decide. Remove all of the old fuel line from the car and install the new rubber fuel line between the fuel tank and the fuel pump.

7. Install new fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor, I also suggest using hose clamps at each connection. Some people suggest rerouting the fuel line away from the engine area, go forward into the nose of the car, and come back into the right driver side. This keeps the fuel line away from engine heat. Be sure to install a fuel filter at some point between the fuel pump and carburetor.

8. Pour a FEW gallons of fuel into the tank. Turn the car on and turn it over. You will have to crank the car for a while and use some starter fluid, as the fuel works it's way back into the lines. Be sure to have you or a friend visually inspect for leaks along the way and correct them as you go. If you do have any leak issues, this is why I suggest only pouring a FEW gallons of fuel into your tank, rather than having a full tank to deal with while it's leaking!

I may have missed a few things.... I'm not an expert, but this is what I learned along the way and I hope this helps you and anyone else out there with this project to tackle.

Happy Opeling, NEIL, Sacramento, CA