Well injectors is a place to check. You likely have another set, so you could have them cleaned and install them. Another thing I would consider is rotor and cap and spark plug wires. After that? I dunno.
OK, I'm a little "dumb" on F.I., so, I need some advice. This just started on my trip back from the Nationals. My 75 Sportwagon is a stock motor'd 75 F.I. save for the Pertronix ignition. I'm getting a hesitation or skip in the lower rpm's or if on power (like moderately accelerating). I first thought one of the plugs may be fouled. I have new plugs, but, I cleaned the old ones, just to see if that was the problem. No real difference. I have been told that even though Opel injectors do work, they're not the greatest design, so, outside of replacing/cleaning the injectors, I'm at a loss for what's causing this, other then something else in the ignition system. It's not a bad skip, but, it does make one uneasy. Any ideas?
Last edited by tekenaar; 09-10-2008 at 04:55 PM.
"Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon"
Well injectors is a place to check. You likely have another set, so you could have them cleaned and install them. Another thing I would consider is rotor and cap and spark plug wires. After that? I dunno.
TMK
Gene, from personal experience, it could be the flow meter rheostat needing cleaning. If you haven't looked at the inside of one, there is a wiper arm traveling across a potentiometer variable resistor on a printed circuit board.
If the circuit board becomes dirty, prying the cover off the flow meter, and cleaning the copper pot surface with contact cleaner or brake cleaner should
solve the problem. The cover can then be resealed with clear silicon sealant.
Do not be tempted to adjust the arm tension or play with the spring tension
of the air flow paddle to make the engine run leaner or richer. You won't really
help anything doing that and could cause the pot surface to wear faster.
Last edited by Aardvaark; 09-10-2008 at 09:50 AM.
-Mark
'75 Manta
Direct link to my album of Opel related parts catalogs
and magazine articles for reference:
http://www.opelgt.com/photopost/show...ser/23031/sl/a
Hi Gene
Try a leakage test. Make sure you do not have a burned valve.
Pete
Last edited by tekenaar; 09-10-2008 at 04:56 PM. Reason: burn valve
* * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Pete Anastopoulos
www.anastosmotors.com
info@anastosmotors.com
* * * * * * * * * * * * * *
I'd check the egr vacuum hose and the fuel pressure regulator and associated vacuum hose.....
Also, I'd get out the Mity-Vac and check the EGR diaphram for leaks....
You may have to remove the egr and clean out the gunk that is inside the metal tube
Paul
if your spark plugs are resistor plugs, they can wear internally. The outside can look good but internally they are shot.
Gene, this sounds like an electrical problem and the absolute first thing I would check is your common L-Jet system grounds - brown wires, one at the lower throttle bracket mounting bolt at the rear of the manifold - not as likely the cause - and a group of ground wires at the FI ECM behind the pass-side kick panel - the most likely place of corrosion build-up, oddly enough, and hardly ever checked!
Proper power is important, proper ground contact even more so!
1960: ♥ '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 ♥ '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
1970: ♥ '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P
1970: ♥ '73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 ♥ '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
1980: ♥ '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
2000: ♥ '09 Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT "Stage 2" Turbo 5S 3.73P
If you don't have spare injectors and stuff, I have several EFI set-ups here we can rob parts off of if need be.
1958 Rekord Sedan, 1958 Olympia Wagon, 1959 Opel Olympia Sedan, 1967 Kadett Coupe, 1967 Admiral Sedan 4L CIH-6, 1968 Kadett fastback 1.1L, 1970 Kadett Wagon Turbo 2.2L, 1971 Kadett Sedan 1.1L, 1975 Manta Wagon 4.3L V-6
BQS4
Lets put a scope on the car first and then go from there.
unless you want to be a parts changer sorry sore subject.
I've been wanting to probe a 75 fuel pump for a long time.
Last edited by wrench459; 09-11-2008 at 12:25 AM.
Gene - I had the same problem with one of my 75 Mantas. There's an inline fuse holder near the fuse box that supplies power to the F/I. I discovered the contacts inside the fuse holder were severely corroded. I cleaned the contacts and the problem went away. I would also concur with Otto regarding good grounding lug connections. They're critical. If all else fails...go to the back of the purple 75 FSM supplement. If you've never used it before...there's a respectable troubleshooting guide there for the F/I.
Scott D.
BQS4 we still have the old monsters if you want to go that route. I think they still work its been years since the last time they've been turned on.
Portable oh yeah almost will fit in your back pocket. Don't we have a meet coming up? Or Lisa and myself could make a fun run to the other half of Ga. one weekend. Good excuse to put some miles on the GT.
As a follow up to my problem....it has been solved. John Lewis (guyopel) did some quick checking and found the ground strap from the frame to the motor/trans had come loose and that was causing the hard starting after warm up, and the "skip" turned out to be the strap, blowing in the breeze and making contact with the body.
"Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon"
Oh Gene
Why didnt you tell me about the hard to start when hot?
When we test drove the 75 there was not.......... bit tongue.....
Dan;
Yes we did, but, we fired it right up, this would occur only if the car sat for about 5-10 minutes and it wouldn't start. If I let it sit for 20-30 minutes, it would start right up.
"Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon"
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