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Thread: Will headlights lock manually?

  1. #1
    Opeler grslightng02 is on a distinguished road grslightng02's Avatar
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    Will headlights lock manually?

    The cable to the headlights on my 1971 somewhat daily driver GT is disconnected from the handle inside the car. I can manually roll the headlights into place, but they don't stay locked. I know there are an abundance of other maintenance issues that can go wrong, and adjustments and repairs that can be done. I need someone to answer this question so I can move forward with troubleshooting.

    My first and foremost question is, even without the cable attached to the headlight lever on the inside of the car, should the headlights stay locked in place? Or does the headlight cable and lever provide the tension to keep them locked?

  2. #2
    Member Nathan Acree
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    They should lock without the cable although you might have a hard time getting them to do so- someone probably disconnected the cable because they were not latching properly which means you may not be able to do it by hand either.

    Long story short is that there is a latch on side of each headlight rotator. There is actally a little lever on the latch than you can pull up on to get them to latch (or release for that matter). You can see these little levers if you look under the hood by each headlight bucket (the easiest one to see is the drivers side inside latch by the master cylinder).

    I can't remember right off hand but I believe you have to get at one "inside" latch for one headlight and one outside latch for the other to lock it in the open position (but don't quote me on that). The "outside" latches are a pain to get to because you have to take off the front side-marker light and reach in through the hole to get to them.

    Bottom line is that you can latch them open or closed by hand but it is not something you want to do all the time ( due to having to remove the sidemarker).

    Hope that helps,

    Nathan Acree
    Albuquerque New Mexico

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    Tennessean hrcollinsjr will become famous soon enough hrcollinsjr will become famous soon enough hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    If they are working half way decent you might be able to push or pull depending on which side of the car you are on the rod that connects the two in front of the radiator. If the cable is still connected then it'll be a lot easier to disconnect and manually lock them up or down. Remember a gentle push or shove may not be quite enough. You don't have nearly as much leverage under the hood.

    HTH,
    Harold

  4. #4
    Opeler grslightng02 is on a distinguished road grslightng02's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for the info so far. I took the headlamp housing out today and oiled and greased all the moving parts. What a difficult chore! While looking at the gears and rotator assembly I realized that part of my problem seems to be the locking mechanisms. One locks it open/closed. It seems these may be worn and is not locking the headlamp housing in the open or closed position.

    I may have a solution of just swapping out the worn rotator mechanism in my 1970 for my rotator mechanism in my garaged 1969 body... at least I know that one works and locks.

    Now for a new problem I need advice on:

    While reinstalling the passenger side headlamp housing, there is a bracket that holds the upper part of the housing to the rotator assembly. There are three bolts that tighten the housing to the bracket, and two bolts that tighten to the rotator assembly. The problem is with the bolts that tighten to the rotator assembly, the first one to the right was tricky but I got the bolt through with the bolt head inside the bucket and the nut between the lamp housing and the rotator. The second bolt on the left I got in, but there is nearly no room to get that nut onto the bolt, even with needle nose pliers.

    Any suggestions or pointers on this?

  5. #5
    Tennessean hrcollinsjr will become famous soon enough hrcollinsjr will become famous soon enough hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    You do realize the teeth in the rotator mechanism that are shorter are there to let it freewheel so that it will lock. The first time I had one apart I just knew I was going to have find replacements.

    Once you've cleaned all of the years of accumulated grit and old grease out, re-lubed and adjusted everything you'll be amazed at how easily they lock in both positions. Don't forget to lube the forward pivot point.

    Harold

  6. #6
    Opeler grslightng02 is on a distinguished road grslightng02's Avatar
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    Yes I lubricated the moving parts on the rotator with lubricating oil, and cleaned and lubed the pivot point in front with some green silicon lubricant.

    Now I just need to figure out how to get that one last bolt and nut together, the one that attaches the bracket for the lamp housing to the rotator assembly.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by grslightng02 View Post
    While looking at the gears and rotator assembly I realized that part of my problem seems to be the locking mechanisms. One locks it open/closed. It seems these may be worn and is not locking the headlamp housing in the open or closed position.
    Switches are probably not bad, but they are very difficult to operate manually it needs the speed and rotating mass to hit those locks and engage a locked condition. I just cleaned a set is why I know, thought I had a bad lock, finally slammed it hard enough on bench vise it engages then had to hit the little lever to disengage it on the bench. After I saw it work I tried it a few more times it is very hard to make locks without being all together.



    If everything seems to be going well you have obviously overlooked something.

  8. #8
    Opeler grslightng02 is on a distinguished road grslightng02's Avatar
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    Here's a pic of the problem I'm having reassembling the headlamp bucket to the rotator assembly. I thought about pulling rotator and bucket out, and bolting it all together, but then I wouldn't be able to clear the swivel/pivot bolt toward the bumper.
    Attached Images

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by grslightng02 View Post
    Now I just need to figure out how to get that one last bolt and nut together, the one that attaches the bracket for the lamp housing to the rotator assembly.

    This is how I did it: I wrapped a piece of stiff wire around the nut, bent the wire so I would have the correct angle, and slowly lowered it to where it would catch the bolt. It usually does not work at the first attempt, but with some serious swearing and patience, you will eventually get it.

    Good Luck !!!

    Dieter (2)

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    Southern Red Neck BQS4 will become famous soon enough BQS4 will become famous soon enough BQS4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grslightng02 View Post
    Here's a pic of the problem I'm having reassembling the headlamp bucket to the rotator assembly. I thought about pulling rotator and bucket out, and bolting it all together, but then I wouldn't be able to clear the swivel/pivot bolt toward the bumper.
    I hate to tell you this after all you have gone through so far, but, that nut/bolt could have been assembled on the bucket while it was out of the car. Then you pop the bucket back in and just align the 3 screws that attach the bucket to the rotator mech. Sorry
    "Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon"

  11. #11
    Opeler grslightng02 is on a distinguished road grslightng02's Avatar
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    I'm not sure how I would put that bolt and nut back together with the headlamp housing out, since this is what holds the rotator assembly and the bracket together. How do you install the headlamp housing with the bracket already bolted to the rotator assembly?

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by grslightng02 View Post
    I'm not sure how I would put that bolt and nut back together with the headlamp housing out, since this is what holds the rotator assembly and the bracket together. How do you install the headlamp housing with the bracket already bolted to the rotator assembly?
    All I ever take off is the outside cover (the light side when opened 3 screws) the front positioner little cup that fits over the front shaft to spin it (bumper side two bolts 10 mm head). I take the three bolts out of the actuating spindle (little guys not sure of the head size but these go through the flex plates attaching bracket to the spindle) you have to handle it and it's a tight fit but promise you it will come out as a unit short of the parts mentioned above.



    If everything seems to be going well you have obviously overlooked something.

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