Wire Source

[zero]

(Meaning Spring, 1980) There was a second "high-output" alternator available as a replacement for the original, for '72s. On an otherwise all-original could not seem to get any ignition. Thought it was the switch, and dis-assembled the column. No luck. Finally traced the problem to a non-conductive alternator bolt, and wired some three-twisted 12-gauge from engine to body, and got back on the road. Thanks for the diagrams--I'll need them.
BTW, that's the only time my '72 needed any service, carb and all!

[zero]

That non-conductive bolt, which completes the circuit for charging the alternator brings to mind another, older issue. Has anyone heard of "crystalline block"? I have a '37 Ford, which since we got it in '65 has pfffft as soon as it gets warm. Still only 29500 original miles from the real old lady driver, who never drove on any highway. Literally only on streets in her small town. Never got broke-in properly; I've heard that iron blocks don't get properly crystallized--and conductive-- unless they're heated/cooled hot/cold enough times, to make them conduct, thus making the spark return path conductive enough. My years as materials scientist/physicist have failed me; maybe someone here could direct me to more info!
Thanks
0

[tomking]

Never heard of it and seriously doubt it. I am no physicist though.

[RallyBob]

That non-conductive bolt, which completes the circuit for charging the alternator brings to mind another, older issue. Has anyone heard of "crystalline block"? I have a '37 Ford, which since we got it in '65 has pfffft as soon as it gets warm. Still only 29500 original miles from the real old lady driver, who never drove on any highway. Literally only on streets in her small town. Never got broke-in properly; I've heard that iron blocks don't get properly crystallized--and conductive-- unless they're heated/cooled hot/cold enough times, to make them conduct, thus making the spark return path conductive enough. My years as materials scientist/physicist have failed me; maybe someone here could direct me to more info!
Thanks
0

Can't say I've heard of this in terms of conductivity....BUT, it's a well know fact that a 'seasoned' block (one that has undergone numerous hot/cold stressed cycles) is more thermally stable, and will have taken a 'set'. Any engine builder knows this and would prefer to rebuild a 100,000 mile engine over a 1000 mile engine any day. New stuff 'moves around' and can dimensionally change. Not good when trying to stick to close tolerances!

So maybe that is where this theory materialized from?

[tedb103689]

Welcome to Waytek Wire that should work

[Redskinsjbs]

Welcome to Waytek Wire that should work

Aww, Great Find! When you need something like3 ft of purple wire, buy 20 of it just doesn't make sense! Sweet. Thank you so much.

[MonkeyNutZ]

I'm prepping for redoing my harness and was wondering which company you went with and how many colors/gauges you used? TXL or GXL wire? Wiring sleeves/looms?

Waytek apparently has a minimum of 100ft so KayJayCo looked the best at about $100 for 14, 20ft rolls of 16 gauge GXL.

[BQS4]

or you can go here:

Kabel Groß UG - Opel GT 1968-73

and get a complete, ready to put in wiring harness for about $588

[blancojp]

Hi all,

I would like to rewire my GT during these winter months but I have ran into a slight speed bump. Where can I purchase the proper color coded wires? I know of places where I can buy 100ft spools of each at a minimum, but I only need a couple feet in most cases.

I know of the EZ wire kit, but being somewhat of a wannabe electrical engineer, I'd like to do the wiring myself and not just plug in a new set.

So any sources where I can buy maybe 25ft spools of all of the various color coded wires required for the GT?

Thanks

Believe it or not, Harbor Freight tools have a wire spool rack that comes with 12 colors or 25 or 50 foot rolls. The cost is less tan $50 for either one.

Check it out

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Not a bad deal!