Stupid questions thread.

[RallyBob]

I think you run a higher risk of damaging the pistons trying to press off the pins and re-press them again.

FWIW, racing engines generally run NO oil holes in the rods, they rely on splash lubrication only. Opel added the oil spray to ensure 200,000+ mileage from these engines at autobahn speeds (remember the German origins!). You can probably drive at US-legal speed limits for 20 years without the oil spray. Maybe more.

Or if it really bothers you, you could drill the other side of the rods for the oil holes. The angle and location need to be the same, as well the rod bearings need a feed hole drilled. But it's another option.

[First opel 1981]

Hmmmmm, that redrilling sounds like fun as long as I have a bit small enough and strong enough. I don't think I do though.
The wrist pin is pretty tight. I already tried. I didn't have the right support for the piston though and think I need a shop to get the wrist pin done.

Luckily the piston wasn't damaged in the first attempt.

Decisions, decisions....

[RallyBob]

The wrist pin is pretty tight. I already tried. I didn't have the right support for the piston though and think I need a shop to get the wrist pin done.

Luckily the piston wasn't damaged in the first attempt.

Usually a machine shop will install new pistons/pins onto the rods by heating the small end of the rod and freezing the pins. Then the difference in thermal expansion/contraction makes the pin install easy...you can fit them in by hand, no press required!

Removal of an existing pin from an assembly means you need a piston fixture as you've stated, because it's REAL easy to f**k up a piston otherwise!

[First opel 1981]

Well, after much consideration, examination of the connecting rods, the squirt holes, the wrist pins, a bungled attempt at pressing a pin out (luckily not damaging the piston, cost of machine shop....etc... I have decided to drill a new squirter and block off the old one. Blocking off the old one is now the only concern. Its a tapered hole so probably won't be an issue.
I will just drill the hole in 2 stages. The first stage will be with a larger bit than the squirter and stopping right before it goes through the rod. Then I will drill the last little bit with a 1/32 drill bit.

bottom line is this will be the best result with the smallest risk and least damage to the wallet.

Thanks all.

[jeff denton]

I suggest you take them to an engine shop and ask them to simply flip the rods for you.
We racers prefer not to re-use a piston that has been pressed on for pin removal, but for street use it happens all the time.
Alternatively I'd not be terribly afraid to run it backwards, for street use.

[First opel 1981]

I suggest you take them to an engine shop and ask them to simply flip the rods for you.
We racers prefer not to re-use a piston that has been pressed on for pin removal, but for street use it happens all the time.
Alternatively I'd not be terribly afraid to run it backwards, for street use.

"We racers"?
~L~
I'm assuming you mean those of us who like to head to a track as opposed to those of us who just like to teach a rice burner a lesson at a stoplight, right?

Anyhow, this is what I did.

I decided that since it was Saturday I would just redrill the squirters on the opposite side of the rods. I matched the angle of the hole and drilled a 1/8 hole 3/4 of the depth of the final hole. I then switched to a 1/16 bit and drilled it the rest of the way. I did it with a Dremel and managed to hit the angles within a degree or two.
Then I took some brass finish nails that were a little over 1/16" and drove them into the original holes. The heads were a tad larger than the 1/8 pilot hole as well so it was a tight fit. Then, for good measure I bent the tip of the brass nail over so it can't possibly wiggle loose and fall back into the bearing.

Finally I drilled the new hole in the bearings themselves. I used the 1/8" bit with the Dremel and then used a 1/4" bit as a deburring tool. I just spun the 1/4" bit with my fingers.

I'm confident that, though this wasn't the "proper" solution, it is one that will work for the normal life of an engine.....100K miles or so. I call it a custom modification now. ~LOL~

I probably won't ever think about it after the engine is fired.

[First opel 1981]

After looking through the GT wiring diagrams it looks like if the amp gauge is fried, it will wipe out all of the electric supplied to the entire car. Basically, nothing will work.

Is this correct?

[Redskinsjbs]

On the '73 Diagram it doesn't seem to be so. I think that it is a parrallel circuit to another supply circuit in the fuse box

[Redskinsjbs]

Here is a snapshot of the wiring diagram with only the wires in question in it.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3653/...de06fd.jpg?v=0

[First opel 1981]

Here is a snapshot of the wiring diagram with only the wires in question in it.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3653/...de06fd.jpg?v=0

That would work great but do you have it in a larger readable format?

I have a FSM but it's in the oven getting the moisture out. The wiring diag is in color but, as you know, there are lots of wire runs in the diag that cross and it gets a little confusing.

[Redskinsjbs]

Hows this?

[First opel 1981]

Hows this?

ACK!! I'M BLIND!!!



Thanks. I think it answered the question.

I totally forgot about the stupid fusible link. I hope thats the problem. It would make life so much easier.

[opelwasp]

After looking through the GT wiring diagrams it looks like if the amp gauge is fried, it will wipe out all of the electric supplied to the entire car. Basically, nothing will work.

Is this correct?

Yes if the AMP gauge is dead there will be no power from the alternator. Just had this problem. Modern cars no longer use AMP meters so why should we? I eliminated mine after the thing shorted out and caught the fuse box on fire as I was driving. Gonna get a volt meter instead.

[First opel 1981]

I checked today and it the problem is the fusible link.
Bypassed it with a test lead and everything works as designed.

Thanks for posting the HUGE wiring diagram. I would have missed it without a large one.

[First opel 1981]

Who created the one in the PDF above.

I would like to know if he would like input as to possible incorrect runs and other possible errors.

Just trying to help.

Thanks.

[Redskinsjbs]

Who created the one in the PDF above.

I would like to know if he would like input as to possible incorrect runs and other possible errors.

Just trying to help.

Thanks.

I made that diagram and I do know that there are errors in it, but if you catch any, please let me know.

[First opel 1981]

I made that diagram and I do know that there are errors in it, but if you catch any, please let me know.

Let me say that you did a great job. I am referring to it quite a bit. Thanks!!

I will PM you screenshots of the errors when I come across them. One, in particular, is a problem. Its not catastrophic but trying to figure out a problem with my wiring led me to discover the error.

Thanks again for making it.

[MonkeyNutZ]

I've got the gas tank unbolted, and all but the bottom fuel line (metal) is still attached, is there an easy way to disconnect it or should I simply cut it?

[BQS4]

I've got the gas tank unbolted, and all but the bottom fuel line (metal) is still attached, is there an easy way to disconnect it or should I simply cut it?

Well, the bottom metal line is actually threaded into the tank. Unless you're going to clean the tank, and possibly add a new connection while it's out, I wouldn't cut it.

[MonkeyNutZ]

So I disconnected the rubber bit, now I assume I just get a wrench on the nut and yank on it? It wouldn't happen to be reverse threaded would it?