What causes water in #2 cyl only?

[First opel 1981]

OK, Opel buddies, I have a few questions.

I have never seen this before in all my years of Opel engines.
I just removed the head from my project and here is what I found.

First off I want to say "nice job" to the idiot that broke the brand new water pump that was put on the engine right before he sold it. I'm especially happy to know that the RTV sealant held long enough to get it to some sucker. But I don't really care that much about the 2 broken ears. It would have been nice though if he actually used a gasket instead of just gooping it up with RTV and praying.

OK, so when I bought it it had water in the oil. No biggie. I wasn't buying the car for the engine, really. I figure I can rebuild them pretty easy. The car was going through water only when it was running. No big deal there either. I figured blown head gasket or cracked head. COOL! Piece of cake.

Removed the head. Head gasket looks perfect. No aging to it at all, and having seen a number of factory gaskets I can tell this isnt a factory one. Doesn't look like a Felpro. Looks more like a VERA. Anyhow, the head gasket is intact and still pliable.
I checked the #2 cyl on the head and...it looks perfect visually! It has the same amount of carbon as the other 3 BUT, the #2 piston looks steam cleaned. I mean it is CLEAN! I have seen a couple cracked heads that held water longer than this engine and the cracks were clearly visible to the naked eye. Those also had some clearly visible steam cleaning in the head in the cracked chambers.

So...

I will have the head checked for cracks on a more magnified level (if needed) but before I send off a possible trashed head for inspection, what else could it be besides a cracked head or blown head gasket? I suppose it could be a cracked cyl wall but i will rule that out too.

Also, it should be noted that this is a low compression engine. 10 bolt head with cupped pistons.
I'm thinking I should fill the pistons with JB weld before putting the engine back together to increase the compression........J/K

Any ideas on why there is water in only #2 cyl?

Thanks

[First opel 1981]

I feel soooooo stupid.

Decided to take a couple pictures to show (see below) to you all.
Though visual inspection didn't show the crack (at first) the camera picked it up like the crack was posing for a picture. The crack is actually much worse than the picture shows. It's about 3 inches long and goes into the exhaust valve seat.

So, off to the wrecking yard Saturday to pull a head and some flat pistons (cuz JB Weld is expensive ~LOL)

2 cyl.jpg

engine1.JPG

head1.JPG

[KN6VV]

OK, Opel buddies, I have a few questions.

I have never seen this before in all my years of Opel engines.
I just removed the head from my project and here is what I found.

First off I want to say "nice job" to the idiot that broke the brand new water pump that was put on the engine right before he sold it. I'm especially happy to know that the RTV sealant held long enough to get it to some sucker. But I don't really care that much about the 2 broken ears. It would have been nice though if he actually used a gasket instead of just gooping it up with RTV and praying.

OK, so when I bought it it had water in the oil. No biggie. I wasn't buying the car for the engine, really. I figure I can rebuild them pretty easy. The car was going through water only when it was running. No big deal there either. I figured blown head gasket or cracked head. COOL! Piece of cake.

Removed the head. Head gasket looks perfect. No aging to it at all, and having seen a number of factory gaskets I can tell this isnt a factory one. Doesn't look like a Felpro. Looks more like a VERA. Anyhow, the head gasket is intact and still pliable.
I checked the #2 cyl on the head and...it looks perfect visually! It has the same amount of carbon as the other 3 BUT, the #2 piston looks steam cleaned. I mean it is CLEAN! I have seen a couple cracked heads that held water longer than this engine and the cracks were clearly visible to the naked eye. Those also had some clearly visible steam cleaning in the head in the cracked chambers.

So...

I will have the head checked for cracks on a more magnified level (if needed) but before I send off a possible trashed head for inspection, what else could it be besides a cracked head or blown head gasket? I suppose it could be a cracked cyl wall but i will rule that out too.

Also, it should be noted that this is a low compression engine. 10 bolt head with cupped pistons.
I'm thinking I should fill the pistons with JB weld before putting the engine back together to increase the compression........J/K

Any ideas on why there is water in only #2 cyl?

Thanks

I have a quick question for you. Did you purchase this GT recently in Gresham/Portland OR area? Your photo looks exactly like a GT I was looking at several months ago in the Gresham area of Portland. If this is the same one the seller told me "head gasket" but I suspected at least a cracked head and maybe engine block!! Lets hope the head is the only crack.....sounds like you will be on your way to an easy repair! Best wishes.

[First opel 1981]

It is one in the same.
Head cracks and blown head gaskets don't bother me at all. The first Opel GT engine I ever did was a cracked head (between 2&3 cyl).

He told me it had a little "overheating problem" but I knew better. Someone had taken out the spark plugs to check the cylinders and never tightened them. I took them out by hand and the #2 was wet. You can't get wet plugs without a water leak.
I'm pretty sure the block is fine (now) because the head appears to be a standard overheating crack. When I first got it I thought the block was cracked because of the water leaking from what turned out to be the broken water pump.

As you know, the engine was/is so covered in sludge it was hard to see where the exterior water was coming from and it appeared to be a brand new water pump. Well it is a brand new water pump that was over torqued with a partial gasket and a buttload of RTV.

Whoever replaced the water pump wasn't smart. I'm guessing it was either a kid or some guy with a mental impediment.

Yeah, I know it's harsh but you should see the job this guy did.

[OrangPeEL]

fill the pistons with JB weld before putting the engine back together to increase the compression

You got me!! The rest of the post was out-the-window as I could only try to think of a nice way to mention how bad of an idea that would be...at so many levels!! I couldn't. I checked back later and re-read. Oh, you really got me good! LOL

[OpelJim]

Got a call from an Opel GT owner who said he had water in the #2
only he lives in Temecula Ca.
He wanted to buy an engine
I told him to pull the head first and have it magnafluxed
Head gaskets and or cracks in the head are the 2 causes of
water in the cylinders, do not know of any other reasons

[deaner]

The picture of #2 cyl looks like a crack running up. I'm not sure I would invest in checking out this head. (if that is indeed a crack) What you need to do is buy my high comp rebuilt engine. yes, a shameless plug.

[KN6VV]

It is one in the same.
Head cracks and blown head gaskets don't bother me at all. The first Opel GT engine I ever did was a cracked head (between 2&3 cyl).

He told me it had a little "overheating problem" but I knew better. Someone had taken out the spark plugs to check the cylinders and never tightened them. I took them out by hand and the #2 was wet. You can't get wet plugs without a water leak.
I'm pretty sure the block is fine (now) because the head appears to be a standard overheating crack. When I first got it I thought the block was cracked because of the water leaking from what turned out to be the broken water pump.

As you know, the engine was/is so covered in sludge it was hard to see where the exterior water was coming from and it appeared to be a brand new water pump. Well it is a brand new water pump that was over torqued with a partial gasket and a buttload of RTV.

Whoever replaced the water pump wasn't smart. I'm guessing it was either a kid or some guy with a mental impediment.

Yeah, I know it's harsh but you should see the job this guy did.

Well let me first say I was willing to buy that GT and I think you got a good deal for what he was asking! I decided to go with a 69 gt in S. California that was a bit cleaner and less costly on transport BUT yours was a better buy price wise! The guy you bought it from also told me he did not have the title to it but was soon going to have it. The titled owner I was told owed the seller some back wages for work done and they agreed to giving him the GT as partial "payment". As you may have gathered, the seller knew VERY little about the car as he only had it long enough to sell to get his wages out of it. I was not willing to buy the car until the title was available so in the mean time I found a 69 GT.

I agree with you that the head gaskets and cracked heads are the main cause of water in oil BUT I have seen cracked blocks where the water jackets leak into the case usually due to no or little antifreeze in the cooling system in cold climates. As you pointed out it looked like a cracked block so I was thinking possible engine replacement! Glad to hear it was only a water pump install gone bad by the previous owner! In any event new motor or not I think you got a great buy and a nice GT. Good luck and best wishes.

Tom

[Dennis Texas]

sounds like one of those professionally rebuilt engines off of ebay

[tekenaar]

I feel soooooo stupid.

Decided to take a couple pictures to show (see below) to you all.
Though visual inspection didn't show the crack (at first) the camera picked it up like the crack was posing for a picture. The crack is actually much worse than the picture shows. It's about 3 inches long and goes into the exhaust valve seat.

So, off to the wrecking yard Saturday to pull a head and some flat pistons (cuz JB Weld is expensive ~LOL)

Attachment 20241

. . . when you observe one 'steam cleaned' piston after removing the head and the head gasket appears intact like yours did, 99.9% of the time it's a cracked exhaust seat in the head of that cylinder . . . clearly seen in your first pic above.

I would only add that, in CIH engines, it's more typically the #3 cylinder that exhibits this problem . . .

[First opel 1981]

. . . when you observe one 'steam cleaned' piston after removing the head and the head gasket appears intact like yours did, 99.9% of the time it's a cracked exhaust seat in the head of that cylinder . . . clearly seen in your first pic above.

I would only add that, in CIH engines, it's more typically the #3 cylinder that exhibits this problem . . .

Yup. I was expecting a crack but I have seen them more in #2. Maybe we count the opposite way. ~L
It's a good thing I'm getting different pistons or I would be upset that the engine only cleaned one of the pistons.