Can't prime the pump

[thescifiguy]

I just got my rebuilt factory 2.0 running, but I wasn't able to remove the plug to prime the pump.
I've run it for 2 hrs at 1950rpm to break it in and everything about it is perfect, except that my oil pressure pins the needle above 5 no matter which way I connect the two wires. In one configuration the needle pins as soon as power is applied, in the other config the needle goes to 1 when power is applied, then pins above 5 when I start the motor. But the car runs smooth and cool with no smoke or anything funny.
The 2.0 timing cover came with a @#$% 7mm allen bolt where the square plug to prime the oil pump is. I didn't think to loosen it when I had the engine out. The hex stripped out when I tried to remove it once the engine was in.

How can I tell if my oil pump is working? My oil pressure sending unit worked on the previous engine. I've been told that my engine would have siezed by now if I wasn't pumping oil.

[Gordy]

Take off the valve cover and see if the rockers are coated with oil which would mean oil is being pumped up there. Did you put the oil pump cover on or did it come already installed. I've seen the cover put on backwards and it'll blow the oil filter gasket out as soon as the car is started.
If you cut some cardboard shields so oil doesn't fly all over start the car with the valve cover off and you should see in an instant whether or not the oil is being pumped.

[Gary]

Check the wires to the sending unit. One may have gotten pinched and is grounding the circuit.

[thescifiguy]

I just looked through my 72 factory service manual and on page 120-78 it mentions that "1972 Opel engines have a steel encased oil pressure switch.". My car is a '72 that had a '68 engine in it when I got it. It now has an '83 2.0 engine. The picture on the page shows a single wire type pressure sender. My car had 2 wires and no pressure sender at all when I got it. I bought a 2 wire sender and installed it and it worked fine, reading at 2-3 when running. The page in the book goes on to say that the old type switch was a "tight fit". And then it says: "The new type switch cannot be used in an engine fitted for the old type switch."

Are one wire senders the "new type"?
I've got an '83 engine, could that be why my "old type" sender is reading funny?
If '72's used the new one wire type, why does my '72 have two?
Do I need to install a one wire type sender and see which wire makes it go?

I'll pull the valve cover tomorrow and do the cardboard thing to see if I see oil pumping around. I myself cleaned the pump and installed the proper gasket in the correct orientation with the cover. There are no leaks at all of anything even though I rebuilt the entire rear, the engine, replaced the entire brake system head to toe, and converted from a stick INTO an auto tranny.

[GoinManta]

Another way to prime the pump is with Vasoline..

Yep the Petro Jelly for burns and cuts..

Pull the Cover, pack in the Vasoline and put back the gears and tighten the cover.. works like a champ..

The other way is to remove the distributor and get a long screwdriver bit and attach it to a drill and prime the pump that way.

BUt if you didnt have decent oil pressure.. I think you would have thrown a bearing or something at this point.

[Gordy]

Cars that have only an oil warning light have only one terminal on the sender unit. Cars (like your GT) that have both a light AND a pressure gauge have the 2 terminals on the sending units.

[wrench459]

If it ran for two hours without locking up. I would think that the oil pump is primed. It only takes a few seconds without oil to lock it down.
First clue would be a funny squeaking sound from the main bgrs. running dry.
But for piece of mind install a mechanical gauge just for grins and giggles.

[thescifiguy]

I'm pretty confident that the pump IS working. I used lots of assembly lube, which is thick like vasoline, when I packed the oil pump. I might be half a quart over filled with oil.

If I see oil splashing around tomorrow, I'll concentrate on the sender wiring. So all GT's have two wire senders?

[First opel 1981]

I'm pretty confident that the pump IS working. I used lots of assembly lube, which is thick like vasoline, when I packed the oil pump. I might be half a quart over filled with oil.

If I see oil splashing around tomorrow, I'll concentrate on the sender wiring. So all GT's have two wire senders?

All GTs are supposed to have 2 wire sending units.

[tekenaar]

I just got my rebuilt factory 2.0 running, but I wasn't able to remove the plug to prime the pump.
I've run it for 2 hrs at 1950rpm to break it in and everything about it is perfect, except that my oil pressure pins the needle above 5 no matter which way I connect the two wires. In one configuration the needle pins as soon as power is applied, in the other config the needle goes to 1 when power is applied, then pins above 5 when I start the motor. But the car runs smooth and cool with no smoke or anything funny.
The 2.0 timing cover came with a @#$% 7mm allen bolt where the square plug to prime the oil pump is. I didn't think to loosen it when I had the engine out. The hex stripped out when I tried to remove it once the engine was in.

How can I tell if my oil pump is working? My oil pressure sending unit worked on the previous engine. I've been told that my engine would have siezed by now if I wasn't pumping oil.

Check the wires to the sending unit. One may have gotten pinched and is grounding the circuit.

. . . is not the only cause of the OP gauge's pegging needle! Remember this post a few weeks ago?!

[hrcollinsjr]

All GTs are supposed to have 2 wire sending units.

Yes. If it has a gauge showing pressure and an idiot light it requires a two wire sender. GT or Rallye gauge equipped cars.

HTH,
Harold

[hrcollinsjr]

Another way to prime the pump is with Vasoline..
... works like a champ..

Yep, been there done that!

The other way is to remove the distributor and get a long screwdriver bit and attach it to a drill and prime the pump that way.

Tried this with a fresh engine and front cover that was dry. If the system is completely dry I don't think it will work. At least it didn't the time I tried it.

Harold

[tomking]

"Unanswered: Can't prime the pump "
Gordon there have been lots of medications developed for this the past few years. It is advertised on TV all the time.

[thescifiguy]

Would that be "Viagravation"?

I pulled the valve cover and started her up.......and oil splashed all over the place. Even with cardboard shields. So I guess I've got oil pressure.

I removed the wires from the sender. The pressure needle still pegs when I start the engine. Is that normal? A voltage check of the sender read "0" resistance engine-off and infinite when running. Still normal?

We're probably entering thread territory that's already been covered. If you guys tell me that my voltage checks on the sender are normal, I'll assume a wiring problem with the car itself and we can wrap this thread up.

[BQS4]

Gordon, let me take a wild shot here. The motor is in the car, with the trans on behind it, just as a crazy thought, as I have seen it before, the wires for the sending unit come around the back of the head and if you're not careful when installing the trans, the wire or wires for the sending unit get caught between the trans and the block. Have you checked this?

[tekenaar]

Would that be "Viagravation"?

I pulled the valve cover and started her up.......and oil splashed all over the place. Even with cardboard shields. So I guess I've got oil pressure.

I removed the wires from the sender. The pressure needle still pegs when I start the engine. Is that normal? A voltage check of the sender read "0" resistance engine-off and infinite when running. Still normal?

We're probably entering thread territory that's already been covered. If you guys tell me that my voltage checks on the sender are normal, I'll assume a wiring problem with the car itself and we can wrap this thread up.

. . . to even read my post #10's referenced earlier thread?

To wit . . .

. . . of course everyone knows that a grounded OP sender wire will peg the OP gauge and I was so focused on that source of the problem, that I completely forgot that an open sender wire (broken, disconnected) will do the same thing! . . .

[thescifiguy]

Yeah, must've been an open wire or a loose connector 'cuz after playing around with it yesterday it mysteriously started working again. Because I converted to an auto tranny, the fill tube and tranny lines make it virtually impossible to remove or even loosen the wires to the pressure sender. Therefore, I had prewired the sender with about 18" of wire with speaker connectors that I could then plug in, after the engine was in, to the engine compartment wire harness. Doh! I should've made them 24" or longer because they ended up directly behind #4 cylinder and I had to plug them in by "feel". I guess one of them wasn't seating well......or I do have a short somewhere that's just not shorting at the moment.....

Thanks for your help guys!

[caramiciu]

What should the oil pressure be in a 1.9L?
What should the gap between the oil pump teeth be?
Thanks

Marius

[newman27]

What should the oil pressure be in a 1.9L?
What should the gap between the oil pump teeth be?
Thanks

Marius

The pressure varies of course as you drive but in general mine sits at "1" at idle and rises to as high as "3" to "3.5" in normal driving. The gap question was answered in the other thread you started.

[jlthunder]

Mine idles at 1.5 and regular driving it gives me 2.5. I think that is the pressure my by-pass valve in the oil pump opens.