Slow starting auto trans

[2 Fast 4 U]

I have a problem with my auto trans, after starting the car, in the morning or after work, and putting it into D and wanting to drive away the car wil only move very slow, like it's moving with the engine on idle in D, even with the "pedal floored", and after about 50 meters it picks up in speed and works fine after this, until the car is restarted after many hours the whole thing repeats its self.
This has been going on ever since I had to replace my broken 2.0 with a 1.6, does any body have a clue what is causing this

[BQS4]

How long has it been since the filter in the trans was changed?

[2 Fast 4 U]

I don't know, Gene, but can this happen just by pulling the auto trans and putting it back in again?

[First opel 1981]

I don't know, Gene, but can this happen just by pulling the auto trans and putting it back in again?

I'm not Gene but the answer is YES. It's possible that you dislodged some goop that normally isn't a problem. This can happen because during the engine removal, the transmission can experience some odd angles and movement.

If I were you, I would start by removing the transmission pan and replacing the filter then refilling with new tranny fluid.

[2 Fast 4 U]

Than I'll have to find a oil filter for the auto trans

[BQS4]

Than I'll have to find a oil filter for the auto trans

If you can't find one there in the Netherlands, give me a shout, I have two kits sitting on the shelf.

[2 Fast 4 U]

Than I'll have to find a oil filter for the auto trans

If you can't find one there in the Netherlands, give me a shout, I have two kits sitting on the shelf.

I'll do that, thanks Gene

[Aardvaark]

Have you checked the hot fluid level on the dipstick? On some automatic transmissions it doesn't have to be very low for what your describing to happen with cold fluid since the fluid expands quite a bit as it heats up.

[tekenaar]

I have a problem with my auto trans, after starting the car, in the morning or after work, and putting it into D and wanting to drive away the car wil only move very slow, like it's moving with the engine on idle in D, even with the "pedal floored", and after about 50 meters it picks up in speed and works fine after this, until the car is restarted after many hours the whole thing repeats its self.
This has been going on ever since I had to replace my broken 2.0 with a 1.6, does any body have a clue what is causing this

. . . try fluid level check first (GM THM A/T transmissions are real finicky about too low AND too high! fluid levels), then change filter/strainer and clean tranny pan . . .

[2 Fast 4 U]

About the fluid level, I check that very often because the trans has a leak in the front and in the back seal, so that isn't the fault.

I could remove the pan and put in a filter from one of three other auto trans I have, just to get rid of the problem for now until I have a new filter.

Is there a way to flush the trans to see if there is more gunk in it??

[oldopelguy]

Just because so many people seem to forget how to check auto trans levels: You do check the level in the transmission with the car running and in either neutral or park, right? Because if you were checking it with the car off the level would not be correct due to an uncertain amount of fluid draining back into the pan from the torque converter.

Sounds like you need to just install one of your other transmissions if you are losing fluid out both ends. That or pull yours out and replace seals and such.

[2 Fast 4 U]

I check the level in the trans with the engine running at operating temp [± 90°C] and in the N position.

[David McCollam]

"Slow gear engagement

Description:
If the transmission is placed into gear when the engine is warm, it takes a while to engage into a gear. Occasionally you can speed up the engagement by pressing on the gas pedal, but it may occur with a clunking noise.

Possible reasons:
The transmission fluid level is low or incorrect
There is an internal problem in the transmission
The idle speed of the engine is wrong
The transmission filter is clogged
The throttle linkage is out of adjustment or damaged"

[2 Fast 4 U]

It's not slow gear engagement, but slow coming to speed and it doesn't happen when the trans is warm, only when it's cold and for about 50 meters/yards of driving, then the trans works normal until it hasn't been used for a number of hours

[Aardvaark]

If after you service the filter and still have the problem, I've had great luck
with balky auto trans control systems by adding a bottle of Lucus TransFix after removing a similar amount of the atf. I most recently put it in a '63 Ford Cruisomatic to stop a front pump seal leak and it not only pretty much stopped the leak but the trans now shifts much better. If it's headed for a trans shop anyway, it might save you a trip. I really don't like additives for the most part except as a last resort to maybe avoid a large repair bill.

[guyopel]

This is starting to sound like a Torque Converter Stator
that is damaged ( Roller Clutch ) . This would require Trans. removal ....I would O.H. Trans. at this point because metal from Torque Conv. goes into the Trans. pump.
HTH
John

[blancojp]

I have a problem with my auto trans, after starting the car, in the morning or after work, and putting it into D and wanting to drive away the car wil only move very slow, like it's moving with the engine on idle in D, even with the "pedal floored", and after about 50 meters it picks up in speed and works fine after this, until the car is restarted after many hours the whole thing repeats its self.
This has been going on ever since I had to replace my broken 2.0 with a 1.6, does any body have a clue what is causing this

I see this problem all the time with vehicles brought in for restoration and it is very common with auto transmissions that start out with a front seal leak.

The main cause is some of the front seals in the body are hardened and they take a bit of time to expand and come back to life. If you change the fluid and replace the filter, you might make the situation worst if this is the first fluid change after lots of miles. Simple way to see if it is a seal problem is to put the car in "L" when you start out from a cold condition. If the gear engages rapidly or after a few seconds without any additional RPMs, then a tranny reseal would be in order.

I believe you should have either a TH180 or a TH200 which are simple to work on and not that expensive to reseal. As an example, a TH200 could cost you about $600 to reseal.

[trlmr]

The pump for the trans is behind that front seal. The seal is old and hard and was probably deformed when you switched motors if you left the torque convertor hanging on the input shaft for any length of time. Now the pump is sucking air as it tries to prime itself after sitting for a bit. There is an air bleed valve that may be sticking also, but it is most likely the seal-pump combination. You can always try some of the seal softening additives and see if it helps.

[Aardvaark]

bit. There is an air bleed valve that may be sticking also, but it is most likely the seal-pump combination. You can always try some of the seal softening additives and see if it helps.

Do the seal softeners ever work? I've never had any luck with them.
That's why I suggested the Lucas or other brand that coagulates the leak at the seal rather then softening the seal which would at best be pretty sort lived.

[2 Fast 4 U]

......There is an air bleed valve that may be sticking also.......

Where can I find the air bleed valve?

@ blancojp: It's a TH 180 trans