swap 1.9 for a 2.2

[jayhawkjesse33]

So I was just at one of my local O'Reilly auto parts stores and I had some great luck with a few parts. They have NEW starters and NEW water pumps for our Opels! And for (i hate to say it) cheaper than OGTS. I got the starter for 55 bucks (+ a possible $27 core charge) and the water pump for 35 (with a possible $2 core charge). I will have those parts by Friday...

I've also found a local guy to do some powdercoating for me, at a great price. He does this with his brother as a 2nd form of income and just enjoys doing it. A body shop referred me to him, they send a lot of their work there. As of right now, I'm planning on getting the valve cover, the intake manifold, the thermostat and the water pump done. Any other suggestions?

[jayhawkjesse33]

Just got done un-crating the 2.2 and all the goodies that came along with it. I am finishing up some stuff tonight on the car to get it all ready for the swap on Saturday. I still have 3 bolts in the intake to exhaust that I can't get loose yet...any suggestions? Other than that I'm ready to roll and couldn't be more excited...

[BQS4]

I still have 3 bolts in the intake to exhaust that I can't get loose yet...any suggestions?

If you're referring to the ones that hold the carb'ed intake to the exhaust manifold, I'd just drill the heads off and be done...

[jayhawkjesse33]

Yep, those are the ones I'm talking about...they are a pain. Do you have to use the same bolts (countersunk torque bolts) when replacing them?

[BQS4]

Yep, those are the ones I'm talking about...they are a pain. Do you have to use the same bolts (countersunk torque bolts) when replacing them?

No, you can us allen head or socket cap screws, or you can open up the recess they go into with a dremel tool and use a hex head screw.

[GTJIM]

If you drill the heads off those stuck screws at least you will be left with something sticking up out of the exhaust manifold that you can get hold of after treating the stuck threads to PB Blaster and HEAT.

If you keep trying to undo them they may shear off flush with the exhaust manifold - then getting the threaded bit out is a whole 'nother game!

They are standard 8mm X 1.25mm thread pitch so you can get Metric Allen Head cap screws that will replace them (from McMaster-Carr). Use the stronger allen head cap screws with some Nickel anti-seize on the threads when you replace them and the next time they are up for removal you could have a 'fighting chance'.

Did the 2.2 come with an exhaust manifold? If so use that one as it is a later model 'Sprint' fuel injection type with nowhere for the intake to bolt onto = thus eliminating the problem in the future.

[jayhawkjesse33]

So we got the engine swapped out on Saturday and got it running late that night. We changed out the motor mounts, the engine, new water pump, new starter, new torque tube donut, installed an electric fuel pump, ran all new hoses and probably a few other things that are slipping my mind. Worked on fine tuning it yesterday and went out for the first drive to see how it felt. It just feels mean compared to what I used to drive!! However, the transmission is now acting up. I have an automatic, and it doesn't want to shift out of first gear...when it feels like it should shift in to 2nd, the engine just revs real high and it doesn't go anywhere. If I start out from a stop, I can manually put it in low gear and give it gas then shift it manually in to 2nd when it feels like it should and it works fine. 3rd gear however still feels like its slipping a bit. And when its in 3rd gear and I punch it, it will just rev high rpms but not downshift. Pretty frustrating seeing how I wasn't having this problem before....

Also, seems I have a small leak around the fuel pump...in the fitting of the pre-filter and the pump itself, so that needs addressing today.

And then when I did take it out last night to get gas, I started hearing a rattling from under the car...the brace/bracket for the muffler is gone so its flopping around. Then on the way home it sounded even worse, and when i got in the garage, I looked under the rear of the car and rubber rings that hold my tailpipes are gone as well. Now with that said, I was planning on having the exhaust redone this week anyway....but still a bit odd, but probably impressive on the cars behalf of shaking the stuff loose due to the new life it has.

It was a long, long weekend and still have some stuff to get fixed....

[GTJIM]

First - if you keep driving with a slipping auto the guts will burn out of it.

1) Check the fluid level - low or high with result in low oil pressure.
2) Check that the vacuum modulator is working and there are no leaks in vac line.
3) Make sure the kick-down cable is correctly adjusted - this adjustment has a major effect upon internal pressures and can destroy a trans if wrong.
4) What sort of condition (milage) has your trans got? Old and worn won't hack it with the extra torque the 2.2 motor puts out.

Probably a good idea to find a local GM Turbo-hydro trans man - an 'old' one who knows stuff!
You might even find someone at the local Suzuki shop who knows TH180 autos as they used that trans right up into the 1990's.
HTH

[opelenvy]

I agree with Jim on the vacuum lines. I'm not an automatic guy, but in Germany last year at the meet I rode with someone who had an auto and it would not shift out of first. If done manually we could get it to second but never third. After getting back to the park it was investigated and it was the vacuum line on the trans, it had come off. Took it out for a drive and all was well.

[jayhawkjesse33]

So I just thought I'd provide an update to what's goin on with the 2.2. The motor is fantastic, but the car as a whole is having a few issues.

1.) The transmission. I have an automatic and it is slipping like crazy! If I give it any gas at all it revs really high in 1st gear and doesn't wanna go in to 2nd. I can bump it from 1st to 2nd manually, however 3rd gear just doesn't feel right...especially if I give it any gas at all. I took it to a transmission shop yesterday and they gave me the "we drove it and somethings not right. We can do an overhaul for you. Cost ya about 12-1400 bucks". Needless to say I left without any plans. I actually had the car at an exhaust shop today to have the exhaust overhauled and had the guy check out the vacuum lines....and all was good. He said he couldn't see the kickdown cable attached anywhere though.

2.) The hood. Which I know is a weird one to mention. But ever since I changed the motor (along with the new motor mounts) the hood will rattle at idle. When I'm goin down the road, it doesn't do it. I have had to put a new catch-bar on the right side of the hood because its came off at some point, so that could be contributing to the rattling, but its annoying.

3.) The alternator. This is currently being covered in another thread (see 'smoke and sparks from alternator'). But I don't have any charging going on and my amp gauge is in the negative and the light is always on. I did have a wire meltdown (fuseable links at the red wire from alternator to the fuse panel, the wire from the solenoid to the fuse panel and from the voltage regulator to the blue and white wire going to the fuse panel) due to a short in the alternator. Not sure what my problem is...

I did have the exhaust done today....2 1/4" pipe back to a turbo muffler with 2 outlets with 2 inch pipes over the exhaust to chrome tips out the back. Much different sound than what I'm used to, but its a good, rich sound and really sounds great when I give it some gas (as little as that can be right now with the trans issue)

Once I finally get these things taken care of, I think I'm really gonna love driving my car even more than I already did...which was a helluva lot to begin with

[GTJIM]

If you keep driving with a slipping auto you will do irreparable damge to vital components inside the trans - stop!

A Master Rebuild Kit is available for the Opel TH180 trans for about $110 - $240 - any halfway competent trans mechanic should be able to instal it following a Factory Service Manual - the 1969 one is very detailed as the trans was a new type then. Probably for a LOT less than $1,200 - $1,400

Try: Transmission Parts Trans Online Automatic Transmission Parts Transmission Kits

OR:http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata...AllModelsTH180

They both list Opels with TH180 trans.

OR: your local auto trans supply shop.

[jayhawkjesse33]

Thanks for that link...I actually noticed the 4L30E auto trans when I clicked on the Opel link. The guy at the transmission shop said that the 4L30 is a newer version of the TH180. Can this be swapped out in a GT?? It has an overdrive I believe...

And I have only driven the car to the trans shop (4 miles away) and to the exhaust shop (15 miles away)...and have babied it big time.

[GTJIM]

The 'E' on the end of the designation means that the later model trans is computer controlled - lots of mods needed ... and it does not directly bolt onto the Opel motor.

You can adapt anything to anything - just takes time, knowledge ... and MONEY!

Better to just fit the TH180 you have - or get a spare GT trans (Kadetts & Mantas are different) rebuild it and swap over.

I am in the process of fitting an Isuzu Piazza trans - Aisin-Warner 4-speed OD but that is quite a challenge even though the torque converter bolts up to an Opel 6-cylinder flex plate and that flex plate bolts to the 4-cyl crankshaft. Still a few problems to iron out.

Stick to the TH180!

[jayhawkjesse33]

Oh I definitely plan on sticking with what I have...I have enough money in my car over the past month with the new motor and everything else I've bought to go with it that I'm just trying to get what I have on the road again. And hopefully with as little more money spent in the process...

[opelnut10]

Oh I definitely plan on sticking with what I have...I have enough money in my car over the past month with the new motor and everything else I've bought to go with it that I'm just trying to get what I have on the road again. And hopefully with as little more money spent in the process...

The TH180 is one tough transmission behind the Opel CIH engine, very few problems. If the engine has been out you might want to check the detent (kickdown) cable, if it is not hooked up or out of adjustment it can cause the type problem you are discribing.

[Viny Charb]

Really disappointing to hear about all these problems ( i.e electrical, tranny, etc.)...... I was really hoping you'd have success with your engine swap, but I guess the story doesn't always end with "...and he drove it happily ever after".

[blancojp]

Thanks for that link...I actually noticed the 4L30E auto trans when I clicked on the Opel link. The guy at the transmission shop said that the 4L30 is a newer version of the TH180. Can this be swapped out in a GT?? It has an overdrive I believe...

And I have only driven the car to the trans shop (4 miles away) and to the exhaust shop (15 miles away)...and have babied it big time.

I would not try to use some of the "E" style trans unless you have a full computer aboard. If you need a good used Auto tranny at the right price let me know.

[jayhawkjesse33]

I just read my Owners Workshop Manual and it has a troubleshooting section and what I am experiencing seems to point to the kickdown cable, either being out of adjustment, bent or not hooked up properly. I mean the trans was working fine before I took it out of the car, just hasn't been right since it went back in. The guy at the exhaust shop yesterday did some looking around the car for me yesterday when it was on the lift and he asked me if the car had a TV/detent cable...because he couldn't see/find it. Where is the kickdown cable located? I wouldn't mind trying to figure that out today...its 65 and cloudy in July...which is totally nuts, so its an inside day for me today...plus I'd love to get this figured out

[tekenaar]

So we got the engine swapped out on Saturday and got it running late that night. . . .

Worked on fine tuning it yesterday and went out for the first drive . . . the transmission is now acting up.

I have an automatic, and it doesn't want to shift out of first gear...when it feels like it should shift in to 2nd, the engine just revs real high and it doesn't go anywhere. If I start out from a stop, I can manually put it in low gear and give it gas then shift it manually in to 2nd when it feels like it should and it works fine. 3rd gear however still feels like its slipping a bit. And when its in 3rd gear and I punch it, it will just rev high rpms but not downshift. Pretty frustrating seeing how I wasn't having this problem before....

. . . It was a long, long weekend and still have some stuff to get fixed....

So I just thought I'd provide an update to what's goin on with the 2.2. The motor is fantastic, but the car as a whole is having a few issues.

1.) The transmission. I have an automatic and it is slipping like crazy! If I give it any gas at all it revs really high in 1st gear and doesn't wanna go in to 2nd. I can bump it from 1st to 2nd manually, however 3rd gear just doesn't feel right...especially if I give it any gas at all. I took it to a transmission shop yesterday and they gave me the "we drove it and somethings not right. We can do an overhaul for you. Cost ya about 12-1400 bucks". Needless to say I left without any plans. I actually had the car at an exhaust shop today to have the exhaust overhauled and had the guy check out the vacuum lines....and all was good. He said he couldn't see the kickdown cable attached anywhere though.

2.) The hood. . . . rattling, but its annoying.

3.) The alternator. This is currently being covered in another thread (see 'smoke and sparks from alternator'). But I don't have any charging going on and my amp gauge is in the negative and the light is always on. I did have a wire meltdown (fuseable links at the red wire from alternator to the fuse panel, the wire from the solenoid to the fuse panel and from the voltage regulator to the blue and white wire going to the fuse panel) due to a short in the alternator. Not sure what my problem is...

I did have the exhaust done today.... and really sounds great when I give it some gas (as little as that can be right now with the trans issue)

Once I finally get these things taken care of, I think I'm really gonna love driving my car even more than I already did...which was a helluva lot to begin with

1. Have you checked that the VM (Vacuum Modulator) vacuum line holds vacuum (doesn't leak), remove and check at the intake manifold? The VM is the primary shift controller for the A/T and you changed the vacuum source (engine) on which it depends!

That said, and especially since you said it was working normally before you changed engines, I had the same problem when I changed from a stock Solex to my dual carb sprint intake on an otherwise stock 1.9 engine!

Even though my original VM checked out "GOOD", it would no longer shift my TH-180 properly with pretty much the same symptoms you describe and noted in my referenced post. I swapped mine out for a new one, PIONEER P/N 747025 from O'Reilly (tell them, Chevy Vega/Chevette A/T) for about $25 and tranny shifts completely normal now!

3. Alternator not charging - do you have a ground wire between the alternator case and the engine block? If so, remove and re-insert lower, 3-prong regulator connector at the alternator lower rear several times to ensure good connection there. If still problem, swap regulator with "known good"/new one. If still problem, it's alternator itself . . . likely worn brushes, not much else goes wrong usually!

[tekenaar]

1. Have you checked . . .

3. Alternator not charging - do you have a ground wire between the alternator case and the engine block? If so, remove and re-insert lower, 3-prong regulator connector at the alternator lower rear several times to ensure good connection there. If still problem, swap regulator with "known good"/new one. If still problem, it's alternator itself . . . likely worn brushes, not much else goes wrong usually!

. . . for example . . .