At home media blasters

[FuriousGT]

I've been searching the forums and other places on the interwebs but have yet to come up with an answer.

I am looking to media blast my GT. I'll have to buy a blaster unit and the media so I want to know how much media have other at home blasters needed for a full body blast? The GT only appears to have two paint coats, the top being very thin as I can see the yellow undercoat in places.

Why not professionally done? It costs a lot of money and I think I can do it cheaper and not ruin the car if I use a friendly media like glass or corn cob or something. I only plan to use a sand or metal abrasive for rusted areas which don't appear to be many.

Additionally how can media such as glass be collected and prepared for reuse?

Thanks!

[BQS4]

This is just my opinion, but, since you're doing this yourself, I would start with soda, or rather baking soda as your media. It's safer than other media, especially for those who have not done it before. You can do more damage than good, just trying to "clean" the body. The soda is also safer for the enviroment. But, in answer to one of your questions, you reuse the media. But, since you can't catch it all, hence the soda. Then when you've cleared off and gotten to the harder areas, then decide sand/glass/??? to handle, just that area., again, this is just my opinion

[First opel 1981]

I've been searching the forums and other places on the interwebs but have yet to come up with an answer.

I am looking to media blast my GT. I'll have to buy a blaster unit and the media so I want to know how much media have other at home blasters needed for a full body blast? The GT only appears to have two paint coats, the top being very thin as I can see the yellow undercoat in places.

Why not professionally done? It costs a lot of money and I think I can do it cheaper and not ruin the car if I use a friendly media like glass or corn cob or something. I only plan to use a sand or metal abrasive for rusted areas which don't appear to be many.

Additionally how can media such as glass be collected and prepared for reuse?

Thanks!

I used walnut shells for blasting an engine and it was all but worthless. I wouldn't use it again.

Glass is OK but you need a lot of precautions with it since the glass will go everywhere.

Soda is preferred for a number of reasons, the least of which is that it washes away but I am told you need to get it out of every nook and cranny or it can cause problems down the road.

Any blast abrasive has the potential for "burning" the metal it is used on causing slight warpes in the lines. I am told this is reduced with walnut (worthless) and soda.

No matter what you use, use eye, ear, ventilator and skin protection. Causing 35 year old products to become airborne can cause a whole lot of medical issues.

[opellane]

I've been searching the forums and other places on the interwebs but have yet to come up with an answer.

I am looking to media blast my GT. I'll have to buy a blaster unit and the media so I want to know how much media have other at home blasters needed for a full body blast? The GT only appears to have two paint coats, the top being very thin as I can see the yellow undercoat in places.

Why not professionally done? It costs a lot of money and I think I can do it cheaper and not ruin the car if I use a friendly media like glass or corn cob or something. I only plan to use a sand or metal abrasive for rusted areas which don't appear to be many.

Additionally how can media such as glass be collected and prepared for reuse?

Thanks!

I started my project with a 60LB Media Blaster rig. It's good for small jobs.
1st you need a decent Air Compressor with a least 11.5 cfm or more a 3 or 4 HP, and a really good water seperator
Your Rig is going to have a small nozzle so you can only do a little at a time could take forever. ( like me two years) And you could warp the metal I decided to search for a Moblie Sand Blaster and just so happen to find one in the next town. What a Blast Inc
He used Soda the 1st time and fine glass the second
see photos below
By the time you buy the blaster and purchase over 400Lbs of sand/glass or media you will see why it's better just to let the pro's do it. It less expensive than you think. And you puts you ahead of the game. Just paint all bare metal just after blasting, ASAP (I made that mistake )
Just my thoughts, If you can do it your self Go for it, It's allot of work.

[blancojp]

I've been searching the forums and other places on the interwebs but have yet to come up with an answer.

I am looking to media blast my GT. I'll have to buy a blaster unit and the media so I want to know how much media have other at home blasters needed for a full body blast? The GT only appears to have two paint coats, the top being very thin as I can see the yellow undercoat in places.

Why not professionally done? It costs a lot of money and I think I can do it cheaper and not ruin the car if I use a friendly media like glass or corn cob or something. I only plan to use a sand or metal abrasive for rusted areas which don't appear to be many.

Additionally how can media such as glass be collected and prepared for reuse?

Thanks!

I don't know what area you have available for this work so here goes......

I believe by the time you buy the required materials and tools, you probably spent as much as if some one does it for you. There are plenty of shops that dedicate themselves to media blast and can cover a large area in little time. I have a dedicated area for blasting with an old US Army diesel powered compressor that puts out 18Cfm @ 120psi. We also use three different types of media depending on the condition of the metal we are attemting to clean.

A better and cost effective solution for you might be to spray or brush paint remover on a selected area and then pressure wash to remove loose paint and leftover paint remover. I would then use a scuff pad (similar to a brillo pad) and scuff the area to blend it. Then pressure wash again, dry and cover exposed metal with a self etching primer.

[First opel 1981]

I started my project with a 60LB Media Blaster rig. It's good for small jobs.
1st you need a decent Air Compressor with a least 11.5 cfm or more a 3 or 4 HP, and a really good water seperator
Your Rig is going to have a small nozzle so you can only do a little at a time could take forever. ( like me two years) And you could warp the metal I decided to search for a Moblie Sand Blaster and just so happen to find one in the next town. What a Blast Inc
He used Soda the 1st time and fine glass the second
see photos below
By the time you buy the blaster and purchase over 400Lbs of sand/glass or media you will see why it's better just to let the pro's do it. It less expensive than you think. And you puts you ahead of the game. Just paint all bare metal just after blasting, ASAP (I made that mistake )
Just my thoughts, If you can do it your self Go for it, It's allot of work.

Not to mention the cost of the mattresses.

[wrench459]

I am looking to media blast my GT. I'll have to buy a blaster unit and the media so I want to know how much media have other at home blasters needed for a full body blast? The GT only appears to have two paint coats, the top being very thin as I can see the yellow undercoat in places.

Why not professionally done? It costs a lot of money and I think I can do it cheaper and not ruin the car if I use a friendly media like glass or corn cob or something. I only plan to use a sand or metal abrasive for rusted areas which don't appear to be many.

First open up those rusted areas and see what evil lies under there before buying any equipment. Just my two cents worth.

[Lindsay]

I've been searching the forums and other places on the interwebs but have yet to come up with an answer. <snip>
Thanks!

Your location specified is Oceanside. Is it Oceanside, Calif.?
There is a soda, blaster shop in San Diego near I-8 & I-15.
If it is a Calif. GT, rust should be minium.

[FuriousGT]

I am in Oceanside, CA. I've checked with a couple shops so far. The first one I inquired into quoted around $2400 and used plastic then garnet. No way. The second quoted $800 plus and only uses garnet (makes me nervous). I have not heard from the third shop I contacted. I was trying to find shops that are close to home since towing is costly. I am, as you might have guessed, trying to keep the costs as far down as possible. I only about about $300 per month to spend on this project.

I do have a compressor but it's weak; 6.5CFM @ 40PSI. It was a gift, I didn't question the giver. I'd have to buy the media and blaster. A cheap blaster is about $110. 50lbs of glass ball media I found for about $40. If I do need as much as 400lbs of media that would be quite costly.

I'm not so worried blasting to paint. I think the car could be painted over in it's current condition. I do want to see what's under the rust however. Will the airplane stripper dissolve rust?

[Sparky73]

I'm not so worried blasting to paint. I think the car could be painted over in it's current condition. I do want to see what's under the rust however. Will the airplane stripper dissolve rust?

If the car isn't that bad, and your just worried about the rusty spots, then IMO you should just get a cheap sandblaster and blast the rusty spots only. Harbor Freight sells one that is like a 'blasting gun' which is great for blasting rust spots and small items.

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

[opeljohn]

I think Tom King told me he had a Kadett body sent off to be dipped in a stripper bath. Not sure what he said it cost but that would seem to be the way to get every thing.

[tomking]

I think Tom King told me he had a Kadett body sent off to be dipped in a stripper bath. Not sure what he said it cost but that would seem to be the way to get every thing.

Here I am! Three years ago I hauled the 69 kadett rallye body to Indy to have it dipped by RediStrip. $1400 to remove all paint, seam sealer and rust.

[opellane]

I am in Oceanside, CA. I've checked with a couple shops so far. The first one I inquired into quoted around $2400 and used plastic then garnet. No way. The second quoted $800 plus and only uses garnet (makes me nervous). I have not heard from the third shop I contacted. I was trying to find shops that are close to home since towing is costly. I am, as you might have guessed, trying to keep the costs as far down as possible. I only about about $300 per month to spend on this project.

I do have a compressor but it's weak; 6.5CFM @ 40PSI. It was a gift, I didn't question the giver. I'd have to buy the media and blaster. A cheap blaster is about $110. 50lbs of glass ball media I found for about $40. If I do need as much as 400lbs of media that would be quite costly.

I'm not so worried blasting to paint. I think the car could be painted over in it's current condition. I do want to see what's under the rust however. Will the airplane stripper dissolve rust?

I had the "What a Blast" Contractor come the first time and he blasted in soda and fine glass. the bottom and top and engine bay cost me $800

I blasted the inside with my small media blaster and fine industrial sand (I purchased the sand at a good lumber yard or contractors center) fine sand is 50lb bags cost $5.00 and I re-used it after screening out the dirt
Used over 400 lbs but took forever.
I would use the guy who quoted $800 and ask him if he could use fine white crushed Glass or Soda .
"Don't use glass beads" to blast (Silca) use crushed glass or sand or fine garnet.
If you do it your self The Air Supply is the most important pc of equipment. (can never have enough air supply and your compressor will never stop running. The more cfm's the better.Match your compressor cfm's to your blasting nozzle size) Then make sure you have a good Eching primer to shoot onto all the bare metal afterwards
I hope that some of this info will help you out.
Mike


I guess you like my home made blasting stand Matresess and Corning Fiberglass rolls. The GT body is light and didn't have any problems with dents from rolling it over on it's sides. It worked out perfectly for me

[RallyBob]

FWIW, my local powdercoater will bake an Opel chassis in his oven (burns off all paint/bondo/undercoating/seam sealer), then lightly blast the shell for $500. For another $500 he'll powdercoat the entire chassis!

[tomking]

FWIW, my local powdercoater will bake an Opel chassis in his oven (burns off all paint/bondo/undercoating/seam sealer), then lightly blast the shell for $500. For another $500 he'll powdercoat the entire chassis!

I would say that price cant be beat.

[2 Fast 4 U]

......will bake an Opel chassis in his oven (burns off all paint/bondo/undercoating/seam sealer).....

doesn't that soften the steel??

[First opel 1981]

doesn't that soften the steel??

Just talked to sheet metal guys about getting metal for the seat base that I'm doing.

From what he said, you can't soften the steel any more than it is. Since the body has to be press molded in the first place they use a pretty soft steel for it.

[Paul]

The steel only has to be heated to ~600*F to burn the paint off, which is far below the temperature required to change it's mechanical properties.

And, yes the steel used was most likely Draw Quality steel to make the body panels, which is a little softer than Commercial Quality. However, during the drawing operation, the steel regains some of the hardness/strength back.