Look on driver's door for a silver tag that has the cars build date. Give us the vehicle identification number and build date and some one here will tell you all about it.
1973 Buick Opel G.T.
I live in Irmo and happened to see this listing last night. I think I'm going to go check it out tomorrow. I've only seen a handful of GT's in my time (2 were operable), so maybe this one might be ok enough to drive around the neighborhood.
It looks like it needs a good bit of work in all areas, so, IMO, it seems way over priced.
He has it listed as a 73, but is it really? As best I can tell, it is post 71 with the pop out rear windows, but it doesn't have the 73 taillights. I'm thinking 72 that may have first been registered in 73.
What are some of you guys' thoughts about its value and/or age?
Look on driver's door for a silver tag that has the cars build date. Give us the vehicle identification number and build date and some one here will tell you all about it.
Projekt 2010 - Der OPEL GT
1971 Opel GT (Green) 10/28/06 VIN: 77 232 5469 Build date: 10/70
1972 Opel GT ..(Red) .05/11/07 VIN: 77 237 3202 Build date: 11/71
That's not rust, that's Patina.
If it don't rain, I'll be there.
Other Cars:
2006 Solstice (Aggressive)
2010 Fusion Hybrid (White)
LINK to my picture Albums
Link to some Opel Cruise Nights Slide Shows
The early 73's had that tail light configurement. Like has been said, look at the build date on the sticker on the driver's door. The car has a lot of rust issues and will require cutting out and replaceing metal if you cannot do this work yourself it will get very pricey. I think $5000 is WAY out of line unless it has a sack full of hundred dollar bill that comes with the car.. I think I would have to keep looking before I paid anywhere near that for that car, it is a low compression 12 bolt headed engine and that does not make it a desirable car.
The wheels are for a '73, and the early tail-lights could indicate a September or October 1972 build date, which would still make it a 1973 model. I agree with the other comments. It has far too much rust to be worth $5000, and with the number of dents, some of which such as the front bumper and underlying nose, will prove to be expensive to repair. Depending on what else you find on close inspection, I wouldn't offer more than a couple of grand, and only if the rust proves to be less extensive than it appears.
JM2CW
Keith Wilford
working on my '71 GT and '75 SportWagon
ROFLMAO!!! I REALLY love this part....
Serious buyers only. (Won't last for $5,000)
"Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon"
I would also say that it is WAY over priced for it's condition. I just bought one with a much better body as far as rust is concerned, although it needs a bit of collision damage repair in the front and there might be engine or carb issues, but I paid only about one eighth of what this guy is asking. Bill
My car is in far better shape and was only appraised for 4000$ Canadian.
i.e. all my chrome is good , my interior mint, body fair but not showing rust, engine clutch and tranny original but great... Just to give you an idea... In my opinion over priced!
Last edited by Viny Charb; 08-01-2009 at 10:24 PM.
I'm thinking $1500 would be more like it. And that's if it really goes 150 mph like the speedometer says!![]()
Well I went and looked at the car today. It was just as it appeared in the pictures - rough. After he moved his Jeep truck out of the driveway and rolled it out into the street, I hopped in ready to drive my first Opel.
The first thing I noticed was the car is TINY. I know that it is an old sportscar and the original idea was to be really lightweight and aerodynamic as possible, so this was to be expected, but I nearly hit my head on the A-pillar getting in. I then realized that this rather small Hispanic guy had the seat all the way forward....
I got my feat situated on the pedals and ran the car through the gears just to get a feel for them. The shifter moved pretty easily into all the gears (I assume, at least the shifter moved easily). I asked where reverse was so that I didn't have to think about putting in reverse. He told me that it was up and to the left after you pulled the little lever on the handle. I guess Germans like to put it over first because my Audi is up and to the left after you push the whole gear shifter down toward the floorboard.
I have played around with the gears and pedals enough that I'm ready to go (and my Dad and I were about to pass out from the CO and CO2 fumes). We were on a hill with his other car behind it and I wasn't yet familiar with the clutch, so I used the ebrake to hold the car in place while giving gas and trying to find the clutch's engagement point.
After getting completely off of the brake, we didn't move. I didn't go forward and I didn't roll backward. The brake never disengaged. I looked down and saw that the button on the end of the ebrake wasn't out, and we couldn't make it come out. We all three messed with it until I told the guy thanks and left my without my first Opel driving experience. At least I got to sit in one.
Thanks for the thoughts guys, I think he's probably just trying to make money off of it as he's only had it for a short while. I guess he doesn't know much about Opels, but he'll quickly learn that they are not good cars for making money off of.
-clemsongt
PS: He called me when I made it home saying that he'd gotten the brake disengaged. Maybe I'll give him a shout next weekend.
Tiny is an understatement..
Some 6'4-6'5 people can fit.. some 6'1 guys like me can't ...
Depends on if you have a tall torso or long legs.. LOng legged guys can fit tall torso guys (Like me) can'tThus I like Mantas
This car is at best $1500-$2000 IF It runs.. since it didn't.. I think at best its $1250..
CURRENT
'06 Pontiac GTO
'71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D (w/ Opel Parts & Service 2.0L)
'74 Opel Manta (Bens Manta)
'74 Opel Manta (w/ LK5 transplant)
Past
'73 Opel Manta (Blue Max)
'75 Opel Manta (Yellow)
'85 Bitter SC
'73 Opel Commodore B GS
'73 Opel GT (w/ Vinyl Roof)
At least 16 or So Parts Opels
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