what, again with the headlights??

[houserc]

Keith,

Started the process of correcting the rotator cog yesterday. You're right! It is a major PITA. The PO had apparently drilled through with a smaller bit, but had never completed the job. So, I was able to push an awl through the bolt holes, giving the appearance of a good hole. After removing the headlight bucket, I could see that the hole was reduced, not allowing the bolt to insert.

I did try drilling the remainder of the bolt while it was installed AND I can't get enough leverage to apply enough force to get the drill to bite much. (That and the original bolts are like diamonds, they're so hard.)

So, I have a spare I will take care of first and then check out other one.

[houserc]

Just got my spare Cog back from the machine shop yesterday. $20.00 and no headaches on my part. I think the guys had fun with it.

The first machine shop I took it to wouldn't take it. They said it was too small. Anyway, the shop that did take it had done some other specialty machining work for me a couple years ago.

I think it's like any work. These guys love the off the wall stuff to break up the monotony of their regular work.

Next to remove the existing rotator assembly.

If any one around the KC area needs a great machine shop to do specialty fabricating or detail work, see Douglas Pump on Merriam Drive in Merriam, KS (KC area). They fabricated some specialty hinges from some rough drafted drawings for a Jeep foot rest one of my sons invented for science. These guys do great work for very reasonable $.

[Stressed]

I think there is an easier way. Get a new assembly. :-)

[houserc]

I did pick up the current spare I have from eBay. The problem with it was it was so rusted it was froze up. It made more sense to disasemble it and replace the one part.

The other thing is, it hard to find the "new" rotator assemblies that are worth a darn. And I don't have the place to store a parts car.

Does anybody out there have the rotator access plates that attach to the inner side of the wheel well? They are the pieces that cover the access panel to the back of the Headlight rotators? I need both of them. Thanks!

[tomking]

I have two pretty complete spare GTs with buckets. Show me exactly what you are looking for and I will dig them out and let you know of condition, maybe pics. I am in Joplin Mo so not too far.

[houserc]

First, tomking, thanks for the offer.

Here are two pictures of the access door I need. This is located in the front of the front wheel well.

Second,
I got the headlight bucket installed again. It looks great, and I was testing it before I started using the rotator at full speed.

My problem is this, I can not get the headlight bucket to release from the closed position. It is in the closed position and does not want to unlatch. The other bucket is releasing, but the one I repaired is not releasing. And goodness knows, I pulled and pushed the headlight arm, And I have tried to pop the bucket loose by smacking it and it won't. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I did achieve my first goal. The headlight is secure and not over rotating any more. Now it just won't open.

Thanks all!

[BQS4]

Houserc:
which side do you need on that panel?

[namba209 (R.I.P.)]

Gene, in an earlier post he said he needed both panels.

Houserc, I've attached a pic that shows the mechanism in the locked closed position, back side of the right (passenger side) headlight. Directly below the top screwdriver is where the sector hits one overcenter lock hook and releases the pin to rotate the lights. That piece has to move to unlock the mechanism normally. The screwdriver on the right is pointing to the other overcenter hook, it has a little bit of an ear protruding outside the mechanism housing. If you can raise that ear up, it will release the pin and the mechanism will unlock manually. Now if you can get the mechanism out or get access to it, that area has a lot of moving parts that need to be liberally lubricated so they will function correctly. I spent a lot of time playing with both mechansims and lubing them so would work, and before I install them again, they'll get another dose of lube. HTH.

Ron

[BQS4]

Ron;
Sorry did see that But, I do have a driver's side panel, if no one else has both sides.

[namba209 (R.I.P.)]

Gene, No problem, I just remembered that he wanted "both" panels, but I had to go back and double check to be sure that was right before I said anything.

Ron

[houserc]

Thanks guys!

I stepped away from it yesterday to work on some of the finishing sanding on the spoiler modifications. It was a good break.

Originally, I had two broken bolts in the rotator cog. I disassembled the rotator assembly to have the bolt ends removed, then reassembed it and it is well greased with White Lithium wheel bearing grease. I had some in a spray can also to get the latchs lubed also.

I'm wondering when I welded the unit back together if I didn't assemble it too tightly.

I figure today I will try to unlatch the headlights in between gardening work and the spoiler finishing. (Got to remember Mother's Day tomorrow.)

[houserc]

Almost forgot, Gene, thanks for the info on the panel cover.

If nobody else has both, I'll take you up on yours. Just let me know how much you want for it.

Thanks,
Chris

[standups]

will the broken 8 mm bolts cause them to over rotate

[First opel 1981]

will the broken 8 mm bolts cause them to over rotate

Assuming you are talking about the headlight rotaters...

They could over rotate but it's not likely. You would have to have them snap at a perfect point in the rotation cycle and thats highly unlikely.

One of my GTs had pins drilled in the rotaters as well as the 8mm bolts. The pins were supposed to take the torque instead of the bolts. It was a hassle to work on it because 2 of the ins on each side had sheared on one light and everything sheared on the other light.

[kwilford]

Assuming you are talking about the headlight rotaters...
They could over rotate but it's not likely. You would have to have them snap at a perfect point in the rotation cycle and thats highly unlikely.
One of my GTs had pins drilled in the rotators as well as the 8mm bolts. The pins were supposed to take the torque instead of the bolts. It was a hassle to work on it because 2 of the ins on each side had sheared on one light and everything sheared on the other light.

On the contrary, broken rotator bolts (which are actually M5 bolts with 8 mm heads) are typically the cause of GT headlight over-rotation. And every GT headlight rotator came with three roll pins, to back up the three wee little bolts. But they often break as well, or when the headlights get re-installed by a PO in the past, the pins are inadvertently pushed into the rotator gear holes and aren't effective. Come to think of it, that is likely the reason for many of the M5 bolts getting broken.

Have a look at
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/2c-gt-h...echanisms.html
for some ways and means to repair the broken retractor bolts.

HTH

[First opel 1981]

On the contrary, broken rotator bolts (which are actually M5 bolts with 8 mm heads) are typically the cause of GT headlight over-rotation. And every GT headlight rotator came with three roll pins, to back up the three wee little bolts. But they often break as well, or when the headlights get re-installed by a PO in the past, the pins are inadvertently pushed into the rotator gear holes and aren't effective. Come to think of it, that is likely the reason for many of the M5 bolts getting broken.

Have a look at
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/2c-gt-h...echanisms.html
for some ways and means to repair the broken retractor bolts.

HTH

I should have clarified my reply to indicate sever over rotation to the point of damaging the mechanism or the lights but at any rate, you are correct.
So the pins are supposed to be there on all the lights? That explains a lot.

I just replaced the bolts on my sons GT with allen head because, Number one I had them, and number two because they are high strength for some machines I work with.

Looks like I will be putting some pins in sometime in the future.

[Redskinsjbs]

Ok, I am officially sunk! My passenger side headlamp assembly now has 2 broken tapered taps in it! This is my cry for help.

I didn't realize that the rotor gear was that hard and I believe that it is toast.

Does anyone have a working spare assembly, without broken bolts and the threads still in the holes?

TIA,

Jay

I am just trying to get this thing on the road!

[kwilford]

Ok, I am officially sunk! My passenger side headlamp assembly now has 2 broken tapered taps in it! This is my cry for help. I didn't realize that the rotor gear was that hard and I believe that it is toast.

I assume that you didn't read the companion article (stuck at the top of the Forum):

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/2c-gt-h...echanisms.html

Read away, and then let us know if you still need a rotator. The technique I came up with will almost surely remove both the broken bolt AND the broken tap.

It takes some skill, a drill press, and a welder or some way to re-assemble the rotator halves, but from what I have read of your accomplishments so far, you should be quite capable of this.

[Redskinsjbs]

I assume that you didn't read the companion article (stuck at the top of the Forum):

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/2c-gt-h...echanisms.html

Read away, and then let us know if you still need a rotator. The technique I came up with will almost surely remove both the broken bolt AND the broken tap.

It takes some skill, a drill press, and a welder or some way to re-assemble the rotator halves, but from what I have read of your accomplishments so far, you should be quite capable of this.

Kieth,

Thank you for the kind words and the link to the sticky. I had read this sticky, but it was a couple of months ago when the bucket first stopped spinning.

I do believe that I still need rotator, but you can tell me.

I did manage to drill out the remnants of the three bolts. And when I say drill, I mean that I used 3 5/32 cobalt bits, an ounce of cutting oil, and about 15 minutes of grunting with a drill in my hand. However, I did this with the entire mechanism in then car; which I can see now was a mistake. I believe that with my overzealous drilling, there are no longer any threads on the inside of the holes in the rotator gear. As you said in that article, the bolts are a 10.9 hardness, which is why they are such a bugger to get out, but the gear is even HARDER.

I believe I have explained the situation thoroughly enough. If I haven't, shoot away with thte questions and I will answer to the best of my ability.

The main reason why this sort of setback is doubly annoying is that I was going to register my car this week and finally have it out on the road; but who will let me drive with only 1 headlamp?

I hope that you, Kieth or any other gurus, have a solution. I am almost willing to do anything at this point to get this bucket, by that I mean the car, on the road!

[kwilford]

If you kept the 5/32" (about 4 mm) bit perfectly inside the 5 mm bolt shank then there might still be threads to engage a new bolt. Not likely but possible. I would try to split the rotator halves, and try drilling the gear from behind with a SLIGHTLY larger bit to see if you can salvage the rotator you have. If not, nothing lost. Try one of the "numbered" sized bits to find a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the broken bolt at the root of the threads and drill slowly and carefully, and then see if you can GENTLY chase the threads with a new 10/32 UNF tap FROM THE FRONT, with as little taper as possible, but only to the depth of the bolt. The end of the hole (inward, towards the rear) is NOT tapped from the factory, which is probably why you broke the tap off, in trying to chase threads that weren't there.

If not, then you are looking for a good used rotator, or a bad used rotator that you can apply the techniques now known to renew it.

HTH