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Thread: adjusting the choke on a solex (Idles Too Fast When Cold)

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    Senior Contributor Willy_g77 Willy_g77's Avatar
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    adjusting the choke on a solex?

    my car wont idle when you first go out and start it. you have to constanly give it some gas, for it to idle until it warms up... when it warms up after about 7-10 mins it runs fine and wont need you to give it gas.. I was told that it was probably the choke needs to be adjusted. so how do you adjust it? or any other thoughts besides the choke? and yes its a solex....
    {)BILLY(} & The 71' GT
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    loosen the center bolt on the water connector and then turn it.

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    OPEL-LESS!!! greensmurf20 greensmurf20's Avatar
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    correct me if i'm wrong, but i dont believe that adjusts the choke on the solex, alteast my aqua choked solex didnt. there were 3 small screws around the aqua choke housing. loosen those 3 small screws and turn the aqua choke housing until you can see the choke plate completely shut inside the primary barrell with just a little tension, NOT MUCH!

    PLEASE correct me if i'm wrong about using the center bolt for choke adjustment!!!
    previousely owned 8 GTs and 1 manta.

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    Cunning Linguist tekenaar will become famous soon enough tekenaar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greensmurf20
    correct me if i'm wrong, but i dont believe that adjusts the choke on the solex, alteast my aqua choked solex didnt. there were 3 small screws around the aqua choke housing. loosen those 3 small screws and turn the aqua choke housing until you can see the choke plate completely shut inside the primary barrell with just a little tension, NOT MUCH!

    PLEASE correct me if i'm wrong about using the center bolt for choke adjustment!!!
    You are correct, Jared . . . choke's NOT adjusted by center bolt! Center bolt is used to separate water choke housing halves and/or to rotate water fittings in relation to choke housing.


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    Senior Contributor Willy_g77 Willy_g77's Avatar
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    ok, so when you loosen the center bolt and turn the housing thing, it wont do anything?? because i did already from the first post. no improvmemt. so the little screws( adjustment screws) you just unscrew them and turn the housing until the choke plate closes... ok but which side is the primary barrell?
    {)BILLY(} & The 71' GT
    73 manta luxus
    real cars don't power the front wheels...... they lift 'em

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    Senior Contributor Willy_g77 Willy_g77's Avatar
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    wide open choke plate

    i had my car runnin about 10 mins a few hours ago .. so before i started it, i pumped the gas, and then it idled really high... then i i tapped the gas the rpms fell and it died.. started it up again and then i had to keep giving it gas. but when it warmed up it ran fine... but i went out to see what side the primary barrell is , its the only one with the plate in it... ... well, it was wide open, it was straight up and down..... please help... does this still sound like the choke?
    {)BILLY(} & The 71' GT
    73 manta luxus
    real cars don't power the front wheels...... they lift 'em

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    OPEL-LESS!!! greensmurf20 greensmurf20's Avatar
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    ok, the WHOLE choke housing has 3 little screws that hold it and keep it from turning. yes, that little plate you can see needs to be shut when it is COLD. loosen ALL 3 of the screws that hold down the choke housing, rotate the choke housing until you can see that choke plate shut COMPLETELY
    previousely owned 8 GTs and 1 manta.

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    Senior Contributor Willy_g77 Willy_g77's Avatar
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    dont work!!!!

    if you put to much pressure on the choke plate will it idle really high and then when you hit the gas it will die? it does it when its cold.. havent let it warm up yet today.
    {)BILLY(} & The 71' GT
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    real cars don't power the front wheels...... they lift 'em

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    OPEL-LESS!!! greensmurf20 greensmurf20's Avatar
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    its the cold idle function of your carburetor. it is supposed to idle at about 1500 to 2000 when cold so the engine dont die, when the choke plate opens, it will disengage the "cold idle" so the engine will operate at normal engine speeds. revving the engine will disengage the cold idle also. find somebody to set your choke and then proceed to set your cold idle.
    previousely owned 8 GTs and 1 manta.

    currently own

    92 25th anniversary Z28. Ttop, 350, T56 swap, many upgrades, basically a complete restore.

    67 chevy sportvan deluxe....next in line.

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    Senior Contributor Willy_g77 Willy_g77's Avatar
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    i have the choke set... i hope.. it started and ran at 1500 rpms... now i have it set.. i hear this very loud screech when i hit the gas.. every time you hit the gas it makes this ungoddly sound... kinda sounds like peeling out when you rev the gas.. any ideas on this???
    {)BILLY(} & The 71' GT
    73 manta luxus
    real cars don't power the front wheels...... they lift 'em

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    opel free after 26 years baz is on a distinguished road baz's Avatar
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    check your fan belt it might be a little loose or worn out
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    I can turn min left or right and the choke never moves. When I finally get it started (with the aid of starter fluid) the choke will engage. Any thoughts?

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    Senior Contributor Willy_g77 Willy_g77's Avatar
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    hit the throttle, and then the choke plate should fall... then it should move.... well thats how it did while adjusting mine...
    {)BILLY(} & The 71' GT
    73 manta luxus
    real cars don't power the front wheels...... they lift 'em

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    Cunning Linguist tekenaar will become famous soon enough tekenaar's Avatar
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    Solex choke not engaging!

    Quote Originally Posted by Wolf Spyder
    I can turn min left or right and the choke never moves. When I finally get it started (with the aid of starter fluid) the choke will engage. Any thoughts?
    Remove the choke housing by removing 3 screws used for adjusting choke. Inside the carb housing you will see the choke actuating lever sticking straight out at you. Inside the choke housing you removed you'll see a coiled flat "spring" with an "eye" at one end. This "eye" has to fit over the choke lever in the carb for the auto choke mechanism to function correctly.

    Your's is more than likely NOT on this lever. Once this has been corrected and you've re-assembled the choke housing to the carb, you will be able to adjust it (3 screws still loose) by turning the housing in relation to the carb, CW = more choke, CCW = less choke.


    1960: '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
    1970: '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P
    1970: '73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
    1980: '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
    2000: '09 Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT "Stage 2" Turbo 5S 3.73P

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    Senior Contributor Willy_g77 Willy_g77's Avatar
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    almost there...

    well i went out to see if the choke was fixed today.. well it starte dup and it idled at 2500 rpms, so i hit the gas and then the rpms fell and then it died... so then i started it and let it run without bothering it and then i hit the gas then it would idle, is the choke just close? or would it be something else?
    {)BILLY(} & The 71' GT
    73 manta luxus
    real cars don't power the front wheels...... they lift 'em

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    I think I would tighten up the choke just a bit more, it sounds like the engine isn't warm enough to maintain idle when you hit the throttle and the fast idle cam drops off. At least now, the choke is working when you first start it up, which is a good indication. The motor just needs a little more time before the choke drops off the fast idle cam. HTH.
    Ron
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    OPEL-LESS!!! greensmurf20 greensmurf20's Avatar
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    if its only dying when you stomp your foot in the gas to release the cold idle, the motor is too cold as ron had stated. now if its just ideling high and then allt he sudden dropping RPM and dying, tighten the choke a little more as ron suggested. If it idles high, and when you release the cold idle by hitting the gas, and it keeps ideling, i'd just leave it be at that and not mess with it anymore.
    previousely owned 8 GTs and 1 manta.

    currently own

    92 25th anniversary Z28. Ttop, 350, T56 swap, many upgrades, basically a complete restore.

    67 chevy sportvan deluxe....next in line.

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    Senior Contributor Willy_g77 Willy_g77's Avatar
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    i was pump the gas before i start the car.. or else it wont start... so then i start it then it idles high(not a big deal) but when i put it it gear and back up out of the drive way, and put it in neutral.. not hitting the brake yet, it will die. it will do the same thing if its just sitting still( will start it, it will idle high, then tap the gas and then it will die) all this occurs when ever the first start up of the day happens...
    {)BILLY(} & The 71' GT
    73 manta luxus
    real cars don't power the front wheels...... they lift 'em

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    OPEL-LESS!!! greensmurf20 greensmurf20's Avatar
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    engine is too cold still
    previousely owned 8 GTs and 1 manta.

    currently own

    92 25th anniversary Z28. Ttop, 350, T56 swap, many upgrades, basically a complete restore.

    67 chevy sportvan deluxe....next in line.

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    Senior Contributor Willy_g77 Willy_g77's Avatar
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    no more hoping in the opel and taking off

    so i can't just hop in the opel and take off any more? ouch.. that hurts... well, will it do it during the summer? becasue it didnt last summer.... started right up and it was ready to go..
    {)BILLY(} & The 71' GT
    73 manta luxus
    real cars don't power the front wheels...... they lift 'em

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