Weber 32/36

[tekenaar]

I don't understand it...
The distributor is allready connected to the intake's vacuum. Is it enough to close the port on the carb...or should it be connected it to something else? I don't see what more should need vacuum beside the brakebooster, the distributor and the valvecover...
In another thread they spoke about distributors vacuum en vacuum retard...i guess thats the same (my english isn't thát good).
Another question...i'm waiting for the gasket/spacer...shoudl i use some gasket sealer on it..or is this not necessary?

The #2 port in your picture is indeed the distributor vacuum advance port. This port is connected ABOVE the carb throttle plates and has NO vacuum at idle. When you open the throttle, this port is exposed inside the carb to manifold vacuum and adds to the mechanical RPM-controlled advance in the distributor. Under load, this fires the mixture earlier to produce additional power for accelleration, which is exactly what you want, understand? That's why it's called vacuum advance.

If you already have your distributor vacuum canister hooked up, it's likely to be connected to manifold vacuum and . . . connected WRONG! It ALWAYS has vacuum while the engine is running and is actually used for RETARD! That's it for advance/retard in a nutshell.

Use NO SEALER on carburetor gaskets!!!

[ZmokE]

Use NO SEALER on carburetor gaskets!!!

Oops..sorry...LOL
Thanks for the clear answer...i understand it now..
But..what to do with te small port on the intake manifold?
Just close it?

[tekenaar]

Oops..sorry...LOL
Thanks for the clear answer...i understand it now..
But..what to do with the small port on the intake manifold?
Just close it?

One more time . . .

Carb fitting - venturi vacuum: distributor vacuum advance

Intake manifold fittings - manifold vacuum:

3-port fitting: large - brake booster; small with tiny hole (metered orifice) - small valve cover port; other small - distributor vacuum retard

2-port fitting with single small fitting below it: large - brake booster; small with tiny hole (metered orifice) - small valve cover port; manifold single small - distributor vacuum retard

2-port fitting with single small 90° fitting on valve cover side: large - brake booster; small - distributor vacuum retard; small 90° fitting on valve cover side (metered orifice) - small valve cover port

[ZmokE]

Looking at other threads i understand now that there are distributor cannisters with two ports also. The cannsiter on my GT have only one...thats why i didn't understand the whole vacuumstory.
So the port on the cannsiter should be connected to the manifold...the vacuum port at the carb should be closed....correct me if i'm wrong.

[guyopel]

No vacuum from carb. goes to dist. HTH
Guyopel

[Bo Mows]

What is the gasket set up for the Weber starting from the intake to the base of the carb. I think i've got a bad vaccum leak between the heat shield and intake or heat shield and carb. What gaskets do i need in what order? The PO didn't have the carb tight, just sitting on the intake.

Bo

[baz]

got to get you guys and gals to use the search engine it gets you things like
http://opelgt.com/photos/showgallery.php/cat/539
which should be a good start to fixing air /vac leaks

[Bo Mows]

Baz, I used that on my hose setup, but i have not found anywhere the placement of the gaskets and spacers for the mounting of the carb to intake. Really, i've looked. Maybe i just have not used the right search word combo yet.

Bo

[GTJIM]

Manifold - paper gasket - heat shield - paper gasket - insulating spacer - paper gasket - carb.
That is why the studs are so long!

HTH

[Bo Mows]

Thanks here is a picture of the carb with questionable hoses. There is no charcoal canister in the car. I think the PO tried to route around it. Hoses don't fit where the diagram in earlier post say they should go.

[Bo Mows]

Here's a pic of the carb. The label saying 2 lines going to distributor are the 2 lines going to front and back of vaccum advance. So there are 3 vaccum lines here, brake booster vaccum advance and retard. This doesn't seem right to me.

[tekenaar]

Manifold - paper gasket - heat shield - paper gasket - insulating spacer - paper gasket - carb.
That is why the studs are so long!

HTH

If you follow that stack-up, you won't have any fuel bowl percolation problems . . . even if driving in Texas summer heat!

[andrericardo]

are the DGV series carbs Bolt-on the manta 1.9 inlet?

[Anonymous D]

Yes, the Weber 32/36 DGV 5-series, 5-A series, and 33-B series
(as well as the 32/36 DGEV and 32/36 DGAV) will bolt up to a
1.9 Manta manifold (although you'll need to adapt the throttle
linkage and air filter).

Additional instructions are here:

http://www.opelclub.com/TuneUpPart1bJune2006.pdf

[wrench459]

I don't know where to post my questions but this looked like a good spot.
How much milling of the choke housing before ventura booster problems? (32-36 DGxV)
I need air and lots of it under the confines of the GT hood.
Also is the 32-36 choke housing interchangeable with the 38 DGxV?

[gt crazy]

If you want a carb that you can just put on and not worry about jetting and all that fun stuff, you need to go to OGTS. I got my from them and it works GREAT! Very great quality. I think I paid 383 for the carb all the linkage things gaskets and the chrome air filter. WORTH EVERY PENNY!

[bigjim5551212]

I don't know where to post my questions but this looked like a good spot.
How much milling of the choke housing before ventura booster problems? (32-36 DGxV)
I need air and lots of it under the confines of the GT hood.
Also is the 32-36 choke housing interchangeable with the 38 DGxV?

the answer is YES for the choke question. With regards to milling, you dont want to mill that housing. that gives more air into the carb