Front end rebuild... the beginning to the final chapter

[Thom71GT]

Ha ha. Actually, this was so simple that if anyone hurt themselves doing this, then they shouldn't be working on cars. Period. I used a cordless drill and the battery was about to die and it still worked just fine. Actually, I might even recommend it.

Actually, I should add that I had the control arm OFF of the car.

[Thom71GT]

How do I get them out? Is there a special tool or anything I need to get these boogers out? I have them off the car now and want to sand blast them and paint em.

[baz]

1 very large vice or a press and some big thick wall pipe
pipe must clear the base of the ball joint ,put it on the bottom side and a pipe that clears the taper and rests on the top of the ball joint,compress till b/joint pops out fitting is reverse space top of the carrier off and put the b/joint in with a pipe that rests on the edge and not in the centre cap then compress in keep square and be careful

[Turbo X]

How do I get them out? Is there a special tool or anything I need to get these boogers out? I have them off the car now and want to sand blast them and paint em.

all you want to do is pant them? if you don't have a press or tool for the job I wouldn't do it. you may damage them , and then you would have to replace them..
for that matter if i were going to take them out I would just replace them,, nothing like new parts.

[JackJ]

You should consider getting new ones.A few years ago My 73 Opel Wagon with only 38,000 miles on it(and alot of sitting around in a parking lot for 10 years) started creaking when I turned the wheel.One day in a parking lot I was making a "U-Turn" and "kathud" went the right suspension.The ball portion (of the lower one)popped out of its socket.Yep instant lowrider on the left front wheel.Luckily I popped it back in and drove home careful not to turn the wheel much.I replaced it by putting a short length of steel pipe under it(diameter just a hair larger than the joint housing )and popped it with a small heavy hammer.There should be a "u" ground into the edge of the ball joint housing(notice which way it was pointing upon removeal).You can press it back in (or take it out )with a ball joint press tool from Autozone(basically a loaner you pay for and get your money back after using).This is one area you should not be cheap in!

[Thom71GT]

Ok, so we all know you have to burn out the old rubber bushings, but what if I have an old Poly bushing? I removed my upper control arms and low and behold.... I have a poly bushing in the top. I think I put that in there 20 years ago.

How do I get those things out? I saw an old post with a make up of some kind of "puller". Do you think that might work? Any suggestions are appreciated

[neuropel]

Can't burn it out as well?

[Thom71GT]

I dont know. Seems that that would be really messy.

[formula_raider]

I have never burned them out but what I have does was take a drill bit about 3/8" or smaller and make holes real close to each other in a circular pattern through the bushing. Just be careful not to scrape the inside of the metal sleeve. If you make enough holes the bushing will collaspe and give enough room for you to push it through.

[namba209 (R.I.P.)]

Thom, the puller might have been the one I made when I rebuilt my front suspension. It's somewhere in my Willit? thread, I think. If not, what I used was a threaded rod with washers, nuts, some sockets for spacers and my 3" vice jaws. Basically, the arm went up agains the side of the vice jaws, and I pulled the bushings, by tightenening the nuts on the threaded rod, inside the jaws of the vice. Not real scientific, but functional.

[DennisGardiner]

Removing old polies are real easy.
I just remove the control arm, and tap them out with a hammer & a drift
on the uppers. on the lowers I use a screw driver to pry them out a bit. Then
grab them with a pair of pliers & twist.
Dennis

[Thom71GT]

HA!! As I was reading it I was thinking it was like a punch. I have one, but I call it a flat tip punch. Learn something everyday.

[Paul]

A drift is generally softer than the part being forced out of position. This prevents marking, denting or damage to the object.

[Thom71GT]

Hello all, Im installing new inner tie rod boots today. What do I use to attach them? Zip ties?

[jerseyopel]

Yes. Try the plastic ones with the metal tab inside, they seem to work best.

[guyopel]

Hi Thom
The plastic ones are fine for the dust boots . HTH
J Lewis

[Thom71GT]

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!!!


Black Powda!!!

Thanks John, Awesome job!!!

[Thom71GT]

Im trying to put the dust covers on the inner tie rod and it wont slip over the outer tie rod. I need to remove either the outer or the whole thing and don't know how to do it.

I did a search in the forums and came up blank.

Any help would be appreciated.

[nobody]

The easy way is a bit of WD40 to make them slick then work them over the outer joints. Tricky part is new ones are kinda stiff so you need to position the rack so they fit easy and you don't have to stretch them out too much. HTH

[GTJIM]

Carefully "pop" the tapers from the steering arms and mark how far the outer ball joint outer tie rods screw into the inner tie rods. Then undo the clamp and unscrew the outer tie rod ends. Now use the CRC or brake fluid to "slippery up" the inside of the rubber boots and work them over the clamp ends of the inner tie rods. Taking the inner tie rods off don't help as the swivel joint on the inner end is bigger than the clamp end. Taking the bolt right out of the clamp does help though.
Warming the rubber gaiters in hot water helps too.
It is a bit like congress with cats and using enough butter .........