Steel is the best to use for fuel lines,cooper will crack at flange joints from vibrationsHTH
I have removed all the fuel lines to replace with new and found out they are copper. Is this a problem to go back with copper? Also, when i got this car ('69 GT) it had no canister and no extra hoses indicating there was one. Do i have to put one back one for the correct performance?
Bo
Buy it.Build it.
Drive it.
The rest is easy.
Steel is the best to use for fuel lines,cooper will crack at flange joints from vibrationsHTH
Guyopel
I have not failed - I've merely found 10,000 ways that won't work."
---Thomas Edison
It's amazing what God lets man get away with when lightning is so cheap. Mark Twain
That's what i thought too. It seems too flexible. It does not seem to have been there too long but the car did sit in a garage for 9 years before i brought it home and had gas in the tank too. That's why i am replacing the lines due to what i went through getting the tank back in running shape. Any idea about the canister?
Buy it.Build it.
Drive it.
The rest is easy.
Bo, for your performance question, you really just need the vacuum lines hooked up to the advance mechansims on the distributor and valve cover. For safety, you need to vent the fuel tank to a charcoal cannister. You don't want or need fuel vapors inside the car. I did a parts book search at my local Kragen's and found a fairly inexpensive cannister that I'm using on Willit? and it will also work on an Opel. I posted all the part numbers somewhere in my Willit? Update thread. HTH.
Ron
72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed.
75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next
Ok, I'll tread lightly this time. On a 69 it's been shown in pictures that it never had the charcoal cannister. All it had was a loop that vented in the rear of the car. When Jarod scrapped a 69 he posted pictures of it. Honest I'm not crazy, just remember my 69 too well.
On mine i found the vent line is going through the floor just under the tank. It has a rubber grommet securing it to the hole. Did the '69's even have cannisters? I plan on mounting my elect pump and first filter just under the body at the tank or in the nose next to the radiator (have not decided yet) and just want to make sure i plan for the hose routing.
Bo
Buy it.Build it.
Drive it.
The rest is easy.
Hi Bo,
My understanding is that the canister was part of the emissions stuff added in 71 or late 70. I have my 3rd 70 GT and don't remember any of them having the canister, just the drain tube/vent tube hanging out the bottem of the car in back near the exhaust pipes....hmmm, does that sound as bad to read as it just did to write? I might have to go look at that again....
Steve
Dave;Originally Posted by nobody
You're not crazy, trust me on this, if/when you ever do replace ALL the fuel lines in the back of your Wagon, remember this there is 14 ft, yes FEET, of fuel line in the back of a Sportwagon, probably the same for a Manta and a Ascona, but, part of it goes up inside the rear passenger side fender and just loops back. Ask me how I know...![]()
"Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon"
Nobody, We must have posted at the same time. I didn't see your post and it answered my next post. Thanks to your too, Steve. Case close.
Bo
Buy it.Build it.
Drive it.
The rest is easy.
O.K., I'll bow to you guys and your expertise on the 69s. All I ever had was a 71 and 72.
Bo, there is a pic in my Willit? thread on where I put my feeder fuel pump, just behind and inside the right rear wheel on the structure, with a filter between it and the tank. General consensus is an electric pump works better pushing the fuel than pulling it. So the closer to the tank the better. HTH.
Ron
72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed.
75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next
I saw that pic and looks pretty close to where i was gonna put mine. I have heard that elec pumps push better than pull and pushing helps cut down on vapor lock. I guess i will run the fuel line on the passenger side to keep from crossing over the motor to reduce heat.
Thanks,
Bo
Buy it.Build it.
Drive it.
The rest is easy.
Ooops, I made a major mistake!! Bo my feeder fuel boost pump is on the driver's side of the car. I followed the original routing of the fuel, vent and brake line on that side. Much better to route it on the driver's side than along the exhaust side of the car. You could run the fuel line along side the right front brake line at the bottom of the radiator support to cross over to the carb side of the engine, being you're replacing all the fuel lines. HTH.
Ron
72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed.
75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next
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