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Thread: Mechanical light Prob!

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    Member 73OpelMan is on a distinguished road
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    Mechanical light Prob!

    Hello,

    Well I am taking my whole light system out to be all re done and new parts put in but the problem is I CANNOT get the dash piece that covers the mechanical lever for the lights out. If anyone can help me please post!

    Thanks
    Spencer

  2. #2
    6,000 Post Club namba209 (R.I.P.) is on a distinguished road namba209 (R.I.P.)'s Avatar
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    Spencer, just looked at mine, out of the car. There are four spring clips, they go into holes in the metal structure. One in each rear corner and one each just forward and outboard of the shifter hole. The forward edge of the panel slips under the instrument panel. HTH.
    Ron
    72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed.
    75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next

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    Über OpelGT.com Moderator kwilford is on a distinguished road kwilford's Avatar
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    Dash piece? Do you mean the front console? Have you removed the lever handle? There is a small slotted set screw in the side. Then remove the ash-tray base (two screws) and GENTLY pry up the console.
    Or do you mean something else?
    Keith Wilford
    working on my '71 GT and '75 SportWagon

  4. #4
    Member 73OpelMan is on a distinguished road
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    I am talking about the piece where the automatic shifter is located. Also Will I have to have this up on a lift to do this?

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    6,000 Post Club namba209 (R.I.P.) is on a distinguished road namba209 (R.I.P.)'s Avatar
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    Nope, you can do this sitting inside the car. Just do as Keith indicated. HTH.
    Ron
    72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed.
    75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next

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    Über OpelGT.com Moderator kwilford is on a distinguished road kwilford's Avatar
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    I haven't worked on many GT automatics, but I think they just have an extra trim piece that covers the round hole where the stick shift usually is. Doesn't it just pop off? Then you remove the front console as described above. To remove the headlight lever, there are two bolts on top of the tunnel (under the front console) and one along the side (under the carpet and foam padding). But you have to get under the car to disconnect the linkage from the cable.
    Why are you removing the lever?
    Keith Wilford
    working on my '71 GT and '75 SportWagon

  7. #7
    Member 73OpelMan is on a distinguished road
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    I am removing the lever because it is a pain in the butt because I have to use two hands and a foot just to get the lights to turn over and lock and come on. So I need to get all that out to make sure there is no coins or anything stuck.

    And to answer your other question the thing wont just pop off. Thats what I thought it would do, but I have resorted to literraly pulling as hard as I can and it still would not pop off.

  8. #8
    6,000 Post Club namba209 (R.I.P.) is on a distinguished road namba209 (R.I.P.)'s Avatar
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    Spencer, did you disconnect the cable from the actuating arms yet, just to be sure it's the cable and not the rotaters that are sluggish? You may not have to pull the console cover off if it's not the cable that's binding.
    Ron
    72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed.
    75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next

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    Member 73OpelMan is on a distinguished road
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    Yes Ive done everything else and everything else is greesed up cables are checked and its still being a pain.

    I did get the console off, I just used a crap load of force and slightly bent one edge but thats ok. Now They console wont come off cause the lever is in the way for the lights....How the heck does that come off?

    I tok out a TINY screw that was on the right side of the lever but that did nothing so I put it back in lol...any other advice?

  10. #10
    Senior Contributor asdasc is on a distinguished road asdasc's Avatar
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    Take the tiny screw back out, you were on the right track.

    Then gently pry it off. I am pretty sure the only thing holding the plastic handle on is the set screw in the drivers side of the handle.
    Steve
    "ever notice you are never done tinkering with the GT?"
    Never mind, I am WAAAY beyond tinkering now...

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    I've heard of 2 similar experiences lately. One in which it had been glued on and finally cut off. The other was heated a bit and came off fairly easy afterward. Just in case it doesn't go well, I do believe OGTS sells new ones.

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    Old Opeler GTJIM will become famous soon enough GTJIM's Avatar
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    Rings a Bell ...

    The handle on the lever of my GT's headlight lever had TWO small screws in it - one on top of the other. Obviously the screw had worked loose at some time and would not stay tight so a second screw had been used to lock the first. Worth checking! The original has a slot in it BTW - it is not an allen grub screw.
    GTJim
    Opel Owner since last Century!

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    Senior Contributor markandson is on a distinguished road markandson's Avatar
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    After lubing everything did you disconnect the cable assembly from the rotating assembly up by the radiator? That is how you will be able to tell if the problem is in the cable/lever or in the rotators. You may be doing the console thing for nothing! I see that this question was asked previously, but your answer was not definitive.
    Last edited by markandson; 11-12-2005 at 08:57 AM.
    Jeff

    '73 GT,5spd,Recaro,EDIS4 2.2 EFI by MegaSquirt, Ali Flywheel w/S10 Clutch, Electric Fan, Roller Rockers, Venolia Pistons, 6 Cyl Intake w/ Custom Injection, 15" Wheels,Lecarra,F&R Sway Bars,Custom Exhaust,1" Sport Spring,Koni Reds,Big Brakes,3 Core Ali Radiator,Hse of Colors Kandy Pagan Gold.
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    Member 73OpelMan is on a distinguished road
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    Well to tell you the truth I have no clue where that cable is, I know you say by the radiator but I cant not find a cable that conects to the rotators or whatever they are called.

    Iam very new at this so things need to be explained in details so I know what the heck I am looking for.

    THanks for the help so far guys,

    Spencer

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    With the hood open it's just under where the hood opening is in the front. There is a clip that holds the cable end on to the rods for the lights. if you take the clip off and work the cable end off you can work the cable part and the lights seperate from each other to find the problem.

  16. #16
    Member wrangler is on a distinguished road wrangler's Avatar
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    spencer, there is a spring clip right near the hood hinges that attaches the cable to the rod that rotates the headlights. if you disconnect the cable and it moves freely, then like others said, your problem is not inside the cab.
    Brett
    ALso, do you have a service manual? If not I have one for a 71 that would help you alot in most areas. All you have to do is come and get it!

    there is a thread under "headlight cable" by rangerrick with some pics if you still are unsure.



    Oops... Nobody beat me to it! lol
    Attached Images

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    Senior Contributor markandson is on a distinguished road markandson's Avatar
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    Here you go!
    Attached Images
    Jeff

    '73 GT,5spd,Recaro,EDIS4 2.2 EFI by MegaSquirt, Ali Flywheel w/S10 Clutch, Electric Fan, Roller Rockers, Venolia Pistons, 6 Cyl Intake w/ Custom Injection, 15" Wheels,Lecarra,F&R Sway Bars,Custom Exhaust,1" Sport Spring,Koni Reds,Big Brakes,3 Core Ali Radiator,Hse of Colors Kandy Pagan Gold.
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    Member 73OpelMan is on a distinguished road
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    Ok thanks a bunch for the pictures guys that help A BUNCH!!! Also thanks for the call wrangler, that helped a bunch too!

    Now I got the cable thing off and it slides somewhat ok with alittle risistance. Is there sposed to be ANY resistence or should it slide in and out very easily.

    Also the cable for the lights that switches back and forth has no problem sliding back and forth, and no resistance so I am thinking it is the cable I had a *Beep* hard time getting off.

    One more question, any specific greese I should use? AND where do I put it..on the pole? or somewhere else?

  19. #19
    Member rangerrick is on a distinguished road
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    Look again at my pic. & lube hose on end.

    73 GT. I used a rubber hose attached to the end of the cable, filled it with a thin penetrating type oil (NOT DIDLY D 40) (WD40) gets gummy after a while and can make things worse!!! Once you got the oil in the hose, slowly hit it with some shop air to help push it down the legnth of the cable. If you remove the acuators behind the hedalmp buckets, soak them over night in kerosene as per Gil at OGTS, then lube them up well with a thin oil before reinstallation. I did this and mine work slick. I spent about 2 1/2 days on this

    My headlights are now intermittent switch or relay??? I'm not sure, neat feature but a Major PITA for what it's worth!!! I dont care for there engineering of how the lights come on and off, built in gaurentee you'll be driving in the dark with NO lights someday and no easy fix roadside!!!
    Regards,
    Rick

  20. #20
    Senior Contributor markandson is on a distinguished road markandson's Avatar
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    I would say to lube the rod that sticks out of the cable. Sounds like your rotators are OK if you can move the horizontal rod easily. What can happen is that the rod is dry and when you push on the cable it deforms a little bit and causes a lot of friction/resistance. There should also be a spring in the same area which helps when closing. You should still get to the rotators and at the very least squirt some good long lasting lube into them.
    Jeff

    '73 GT,5spd,Recaro,EDIS4 2.2 EFI by MegaSquirt, Ali Flywheel w/S10 Clutch, Electric Fan, Roller Rockers, Venolia Pistons, 6 Cyl Intake w/ Custom Injection, 15" Wheels,Lecarra,F&R Sway Bars,Custom Exhaust,1" Sport Spring,Koni Reds,Big Brakes,3 Core Ali Radiator,Hse of Colors Kandy Pagan Gold.
    123 WHP @ 6800 RPM

    '64 VW Karmann Ghia
    '08 BMW M3

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