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Old 12-11-2004   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: adjusting the choke on a solex?

my car wont idle when you first go out and start it. you have to constanly give it some gas, for it to idle until it warms up... when it warms up after about 7-10 mins it runs fine and wont need you to give it gas.. I was told that it was probably the choke needs to be adjusted. so how do you adjust it? or any other thoughts besides the choke? and yes its a solex....
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Old 12-11-2004   #2 (permalink)
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loosen the center bolt on the water connector and then turn it.
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Old 12-11-2004   #3 (permalink)
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correct me if i'm wrong, but i dont believe that adjusts the choke on the solex, alteast my aqua choked solex didnt. there were 3 small screws around the aqua choke housing. loosen those 3 small screws and turn the aqua choke housing until you can see the choke plate completely shut inside the primary barrell with just a little tension, NOT MUCH!

PLEASE correct me if i'm wrong about using the center bolt for choke adjustment!!!
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Old 12-12-2004   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by greensmurf20
correct me if i'm wrong, but i dont believe that adjusts the choke on the solex, alteast my aqua choked solex didnt. there were 3 small screws around the aqua choke housing. loosen those 3 small screws and turn the aqua choke housing until you can see the choke plate completely shut inside the primary barrell with just a little tension, NOT MUCH!

PLEASE correct me if i'm wrong about using the center bolt for choke adjustment!!!
You are correct, Jared . . . choke's NOT adjusted by center bolt! Center bolt is used to separate water choke housing halves and/or to rotate water fittings in relation to choke housing.
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Old 12-12-2004   #5 (permalink)
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ok, so when you loosen the center bolt and turn the housing thing, it wont do anything?? because i did already from the first post. no improvmemt. so the little screws( adjustment screws) you just unscrew them and turn the housing until the choke plate closes... ok but which side is the primary barrell?
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Old 12-12-2004   #6 (permalink)
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wide open choke plate

i had my car runnin about 10 mins a few hours ago .. so before i started it, i pumped the gas, and then it idled really high... then i i tapped the gas the rpms fell and it died.. started it up again and then i had to keep giving it gas. but when it warmed up it ran fine... but i went out to see what side the primary barrell is , its the only one with the plate in it... ... well, it was wide open, it was straight up and down..... please help... does this still sound like the choke?
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Old 12-12-2004   #7 (permalink)
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ok, the WHOLE choke housing has 3 little screws that hold it and keep it from turning. yes, that little plate you can see needs to be shut when it is COLD. loosen ALL 3 of the screws that hold down the choke housing, rotate the choke housing until you can see that choke plate shut COMPLETELY
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Old 12-13-2004   #8 (permalink)
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dont work!!!!

if you put to much pressure on the choke plate will it idle really high and then when you hit the gas it will die? it does it when its cold.. havent let it warm up yet today.
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Old 12-13-2004   #9 (permalink)
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its the cold idle function of your carburetor. it is supposed to idle at about 1500 to 2000 when cold so the engine dont die, when the choke plate opens, it will disengage the "cold idle" so the engine will operate at normal engine speeds. revving the engine will disengage the cold idle also. find somebody to set your choke and then proceed to set your cold idle.
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Old 12-13-2004   #10 (permalink)
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i have the choke set... i hope.. it started and ran at 1500 rpms... now i have it set.. i hear this very loud screech when i hit the gas.. every time you hit the gas it makes this ungoddly sound... kinda sounds like peeling out when you rev the gas.. any ideas on this???
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Old 12-13-2004   #11 (permalink)
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check your fan belt it might be a little loose or worn out
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Old 12-13-2004   #12 (permalink)
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I can turn min left or right and the choke never moves. When I finally get it started (with the aid of starter fluid) the choke will engage. Any thoughts?
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Old 12-13-2004   #13 (permalink)
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hit the throttle, and then the choke plate should fall... then it should move.... well thats how it did while adjusting mine...
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Old 12-14-2004   #14 (permalink)
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Arrow Solex choke not engaging!

Originally Posted by Wolf Spyder
I can turn min left or right and the choke never moves. When I finally get it started (with the aid of starter fluid) the choke will engage. Any thoughts?
Remove the choke housing by removing 3 screws used for adjusting choke. Inside the carb housing you will see the choke actuating lever sticking straight out at you. Inside the choke housing you removed you'll see a coiled flat "spring" with an "eye" at one end. This "eye" has to fit over the choke lever in the carb for the auto choke mechanism to function correctly.

Your's is more than likely NOT on this lever. Once this has been corrected and you've re-assembled the choke housing to the carb, you will be able to adjust it (3 screws still loose) by turning the housing in relation to the carb, CW = more choke, CCW = less choke.
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Old 12-14-2004   #15 (permalink)
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almost there...

well i went out to see if the choke was fixed today.. well it starte dup and it idled at 2500 rpms, so i hit the gas and then the rpms fell and then it died... so then i started it and let it run without bothering it and then i hit the gas then it would idle, is the choke just close? or would it be something else?
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Old 12-14-2004   #16 (permalink)
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I think I would tighten up the choke just a bit more, it sounds like the engine isn't warm enough to maintain idle when you hit the throttle and the fast idle cam drops off. At least now, the choke is working when you first start it up, which is a good indication. The motor just needs a little more time before the choke drops off the fast idle cam. HTH.
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Old 12-14-2004   #17 (permalink)
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if its only dying when you stomp your foot in the gas to release the cold idle, the motor is too cold as ron had stated. now if its just ideling high and then allt he sudden dropping RPM and dying, tighten the choke a little more as ron suggested. If it idles high, and when you release the cold idle by hitting the gas, and it keeps ideling, i'd just leave it be at that and not mess with it anymore.
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Old 12-15-2004   #18 (permalink)
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i was pump the gas before i start the car.. or else it wont start... so then i start it then it idles high(not a big deal) but when i put it it gear and back up out of the drive way, and put it in neutral.. not hitting the brake yet, it will die. it will do the same thing if its just sitting still( will start it, it will idle high, then tap the gas and then it will die) all this occurs when ever the first start up of the day happens...
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Old 12-15-2004   #19 (permalink)
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engine is too cold still
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Old 12-15-2004   #20 (permalink)
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no more hoping in the opel and taking off

so i can't just hop in the opel and take off any more? ouch.. that hurts... well, will it do it during the summer? becasue it didnt last summer.... started right up and it was ready to go..
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Old 12-15-2004   #21 (permalink)
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Billy, just tighten up the choke a little more so it stays on a bit longer, it's just that the idle will be higher for a bit longer to. Jump in and go? Never, start the engine, put on your belts, turn on the sounds, for me, light a cigarrette, then go. Give the oil a chance to circulate before you give it gas and go. The motor will last longer.
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Old 12-15-2004   #22 (permalink)
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when you say tighten it some, do you mean put some more pressure on the choke plate?well see i have to back it out of the garage, get out then shut the garage door, get in and turn on the tunes... then go, but it will die when i pull it outta the garage..
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Old 12-15-2004   #23 (permalink)
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Yes Billy, put more pressure on the bimetallic spring inside the choke housing, so the choke will stay closed a bit longer. So you have to back the car out of the garage, no problem, just don't give it any gas, at all. Put the car in reverse, slowly let the clutch out, as the car starts to move, push the clutch back in. You can do this numerous times without touching the gas and the engine will continue to run and you'll be able to get the car out of the garage.
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Old 12-15-2004   #24 (permalink)
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its winter anyway billy, i hope you are not trying to drive the GT. i know you get snow, ice, salt, ect down there, be a shame to ruin that GT. the old carburated cars like the heat alot more. my car will start right up and idle at 1,500, soon as you hit the gas it WILL die unless you give it enough time to reach operating temp, or near that temp. my car shoulud be even more cold blooded than yours, as i dont have the stock manifold to heat the intake plenum no longer.
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Old 12-16-2004   #25 (permalink)
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it wont be in the snow

i wont even take my gt out in the rain... i'll only drive it when it is dry.. i just want it to be ready for summer... just seeing if it is normal.. so if i tighen it a little more, it should be good to go, as far as the carb for this summer?
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