Starter Reassembly
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Thread: Starter Reassembly

  1. #1
    Opeler
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    Starter Reassembly

    I've read the manual but thought I'd ask before I get too aggressive with a hammer based on some poor pictures in a PDF

    I have a 70 GT that I've been working on for a little bit now. I came to testing the starter and it didn't spin. I pulled it off and it, like most of the other spinny bits of the car, seemed to be seized from sitting. I got it largely knocked loose but thought lubing it up would be a decent plan while I had it off. Surely that would be a quick job. I'm not in full 'I must make everything factory new' mode, I'm just trying to see if this engine has life in it as-is, basically. Anyway I popped the starter apart, greased it up, got everything spinning and moving smoothly, and then realized I might have screwed up. I pulled the geared end cap with the solenoid and armature that it activates off in one piece. The brush-end however doesn't seem to want to come off of the middle section. The brushes have all sprung out of their holders and I don't see a way to get them all back in place and held there while I insert the whole armature into place. I assume the brush-end should come off as well? I've given it some fairly decent whacks with a rubber mallet but haven't seemed to budge it. I didn't want to get more aggressive before checking here and seeing if I'm headed in the right direction.

    Is the brush-end of the starter supposed to separate from the center section with the field windings? If not, how am I supposed to get these brushes in place and hold them there while I get the armature back in?

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  3. #2
    Über Genius First opel 1981's Avatar
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    I use paper clips to maneuver the whole thing back together while screaming sailor words for about 2 hours.

    It's a royal PITA
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    I use paper clips to maneuver the whole thing back together while screaming sailor words for about 2 hours.

    It's a royal PITA
    D'oh. At least I know I'm not missing something stupid. I'll have to give it a think. I have a 3D printer; maybe I can design some sort of break-away jig or something.

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  6. #4
    Opel Rallier since 1977
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    Yes, the end plate should come off after removing the long through bolts. Soak that area with PB Blaster and keep tapping it light to medium everyone once in a while on the edges of the end plate with a small hammer (not rubber) and it will eventually work the PB Blaster in there and come loose. (You need to have a small case of PB Blaster for your car restoration!) Clean out and re-lube the bearing in the end plate with grease.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Manta Rallier View Post
    Yes, the end plate should come off after removing the long through bolts. Soak that area with PB Blaster and keep tapping it light to medium everyone once in a while on the edges of the end plate with a small hammer (not rubber) and it will eventually work the PB Blaster in there and come loose. (You need to have a small case of PB Blaster for your car restoration!) Clean out and re-lube the bearing in the end plate with grease.
    Hah! I actually already picked up the gallon jug of WD40 I've had to soak and clean old oil and grease off so much stuff.

  8. #6
    Opel Rallier since 1977
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    Yes, WD40 is good for that. For freeing rusted frozen parts, PB Blaster is a LOT better than WD40; I have come to think it is better than Liquid Wrench too. You need both in your arsenal, and a can of silicon spray for rubber parts and as a general lube.

    One spray that we use that both penetrates and lubes is from the local Mopar dealer; they developed this in the 40's or 50's to use on exhaust heat riser flaps and keep them freed up, but it is a great combination penetrant and lube, much better than WD40 and has lube properties that PB does not. You can get it at the local CJD/Ram dealer under PN 04318039AC. The parts counter guys ought to know right away what it is; the dealers seem to use it a lot.

  9. #7
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    A 29mm socket can be used to hold your starter brushes in place as you reassemble the starter (or disassemble, to late for that).
    HTH
    John
    Guyopel
    I have not failed - I've merely found 10,000 ways that won't work."
    ---Thomas Edison
    It's amazing what God lets man get away with when lightning is so cheap. Mark Twain

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