Ignition coil, electronic ignition module or ignition switch? - Page 2
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Thread: Ignition coil, electronic ignition module or ignition switch?

  1. #21
    Senior Member The Cub's Avatar
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    Back to stock ignition for now

    Well for the first time in 25 years I went back to the good ol ignition points. Before I did this I replaced the ballast resistor wire with a new Beck Arnley 1.5k resistor and I thought the problem was fixed I swear the engine was smoother until another quick hiccup then later after I tried opening up the secondary, well slamming on the secondary to WOT the tach quit, the engine lost power and coasted in gear, I donít know what kept the engine running but I was coming up to a stop sign and then it just died again. This time it wouldnít restart for 10 minutes or so it seemed that long. I think after 25 years of flawless performance my xr-700 is on its way out. I had the module mounted to the driver side wheel well the whole time and maybe the repetitive getting hot & cooling down finally got to it. If thatís what it is I canít complain too much. I converted back to points for now, if the symptoms go away this will confirm it before I go replacing the module again possibly to the xr-3,000 this time. Iíve had a new replacement trigger sitting on the shelf for setting up my other dizzy that I havenít gotten around to using yet and Iím hooked on itís reliability. I was expecting to be disappointed going back to the points & condenser, the gap is .018Ē and the dwell angle is right on 50 degrees. Iím surprised how well it runs. Besides the maintenance one the main reason I swapped out to electronic ignition was that I always had problems with the points pitting. I remember replacing condensers a lot, it was just a guessing game. Well itís got new points and condenser, new in line resistor, no more resistor wire, new 1.5 ohms stock replacement ignition coil. I checked the ground and itís pretty good. If anyone has some suggestions on further checking to do I welcome it because itís been a long time since Iíve driven around with the original set up. Hopefully those pitting days are behind. Iím just temporarily going back to the stock ignition but Iíd certainly be much happier with no pitting issues. Depending on how it goes Iíd like to run the stock ignition to the next oil change interval. If no incidents that should prove pretty conclusive. Iíll post back hopefully with better news

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  3. #22
    Opel Rallier since 1977
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    Pitting and metal transfers on the point is usually caused by a poor/bad/incorrect condensor, or the coil + and - hooked up backwards. You used to be able to find info like this all over the place:
    https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/c...d=jd&th=594860 I've not heard much good about the current crop of points made in Mexico and overseas (for engines like Mopar 225 /6's), so if you can find some true old Delco sets, I would.

    FWIW: I rallied my Opels with the stock points systems always; never switched to any of the electronic ignition systems of the day because of reliability. (I bought my 1st CD ignition in 1974 and it lasted maybe 4 years in a Ford Ranchero.) That Opel engine was shifted 2-3 at 7700 RPM typically and sometimes I would get it up to 8200 RPM. Never had a single solitary issue with the stock 50 series Opel points system and coils and resistor wire; that was in at least 30 event and at least 3000 full tilt stage miles in those cars. Replaced the points and condensors regularly as cheap preventative maintenance.

    Probably was giving up a couple of HP over the better burn that a modern electrnoic ignition could give, but reliability of everything is at a premium in events where you were paying the modern equivalent of $500-800 entry fees, and a breakdown means being stuck out the far woods until your service crew finds you in the wee hours of the morning.
    Vincent and The Cub like this.

  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Cub View Post
    Well for the first time in 25 years I went back to the good ol ignition points.
    I'm still having intermittent issues with the engine cutting out like you are having and am considering ditching the Pertronix Ignitor electronic ignition and going back to points, too. I thought I solved the issue but on a drive over the weekend it happened again and am fairly certain at this point it's the Pertronix. Nothing like being stuck in traffic when your car shuts off and won't restart.

    How has your car been running since switching back to points?

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  6. #24
    Senior Member The Cub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejota View Post
    I'm still having intermittent issues with the engine cutting out like you are having and am considering ditching the Pertronix Ignitor electronic ignition and going back to points, too. I thought I solved the issue but on a drive over the weekend it happened again and am fairly certain at this point it's the Pertronix. Nothing like being stuck in traffic when your car shuts off and won't restart.

    How has your car been running since switching back to points?
    So far no incidents at all, definitely worth trying. Iíve been waiting for the hammer to fall but instead my confidence is building. If I make it to the next oil change it will be problem solved. Iím not calling it in just yet. Two weeks were as long as I got with the electronic ignition between incidents and it did get worse. I think itís been longer now with the ignition points. It runs much better than I thought it was going to. I was really apprehensive about going back after 25 years of trouble free performance. It was just the boogeyman though she runs great. If you put-íem in do it by the book I ran too retarded for too long while fumbling with the timing light and the engine got too hot in a hurry. I shut it down lined it up with the #1 and TDC after it cooled down and it went much better. Oh if you do decide to convert donít forget about the cam lube Iíll post up at my next oil change as it seems like itís the direction this is headed.
    Manta Rallier likes this.

  7. #25
    RunOpel dpre's Avatar
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    Wow, I have been thinking of switching to Petronix, but not sure now. I have been running points for several years with no problems. Maybe I should stay put.
    Dan

  8. #26
    1000 Post Club kwschumm's Avatar
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    The best of both worlds is to install electronic ignition but keep a set of points and condenser in the car just in case. In my case I'd keep a spare pertronics and a set of points.
    The Cub likes this.
    Thurston County, WA, effective motto: "Gophers, Gophers ‹ber Alles"

  9. #27
    1000 Post Club Vincent's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpre View Post
    Wow, I have been thinking of switching to Petronix, but not sure now. I have been running points for several years with no problems. Maybe I should stay put.
    Dan
    My points and condenser were over 30 years old and still work perfect. Switch to pertronics few years back. Install was easy, and haven't had any problems nor regrets.

  10. #28
    RunOpel dpre's Avatar
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    Good to know, I'm still leaning towards switching to Petronix. I think the convenience is worth the try. I have heard more good than bad.
    Dan
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  11. #29
    OpelGT.com ‹bermoderator kwilford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpre View Post
    Good to know, I'm still leaning towards switching to Petronix. I think the convenience is worth the try. I have heard more good than bad.
    Dan
    Spend the few extra $ and get the Pertronix II (91847V), as that has better over-current and reverse polarity protection and so is much more rugged and reliable, and doesn't require a 3 ohm resistor coil. The III is even better, but most folks won't take advantage of the rpm limiter, although not needing the magnet insert is nice.
    Keith Wilford
    Finishing up a bare-metal, nut & bolt rotisserie restoration of my '71 Opel GT

  12. #30
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    If you stick with points, I'd encourage you to buy the 'best' points from a place like OGTS. The current crop of points from Mexico and China just don't seem to have the durability of the ones sold here 'back in the day'. The same applies to condensors. I'd even lok for NOS parts.

    Either way is good IMHO. The points system in these cars is not challenged like it can be in a V8 so works well. They need attention and so that speaks to a good electronic system. Either can and will fail. Example: Coil failure will happen in both just as readily.
    CommodŚren likes this.

  13. #31
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    A four cylinder coil has more time to charge than an eight cylinder one and that makes it possible to fire the plugs with a stronger spark at a higher RPM.
    Manta Rallier likes this.

  14. #32
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    I ended up replacing the voltage regulator and going through all my grounds and wiring, including one loose nut on the intake manifold to carb (this was likely the issue in the first place). Several trips later with no stalling, I think the problem is finally solved! Still running the Pertronix and it's working well, even in the hot weather here in Portland right now.
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  15. #33
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    I have a question regarding match of distributor and ignition module.

    I have a distributor w. electronic ignition and mech advance from a 2.0 injection (JHFU4 0237020042) and a Bosch ignition module (1227022006) and a pertronix coil.
    Do you know if this distributor and ignition module will run?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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