Front end rebuild... the beginning to the final chapter - Page 6
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Thread: Front end rebuild... the beginning to the final chapter

  1. #101
    7,000 Post Club wrench459 (R.I.P.)'s Avatar
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    Excessive toe-in will feather the tread
    You'll feel the sharp edges just by gliding your hand across the tire.
    Toe-out the feathering will be on the opposite side.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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  3. #102
    Über Genius First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
    Normally there are just two adjustments. Upper arms can be modified to provide more or less camber than usual.

    Camber alone doesn't wear tires too quickly. Camber plus toe-in or toe-out wears tires like crazy. I've seen new tires shredded in a week from this.
    Well, I'm down to the tread bar on my left side outer. The right side is wearing a little less.
    The inside of both tires still have the mold marks.

    The tires have less than 5K on them. Probably closer to 2500.

    I reset the toe to be perfectly straight. I know it's supposed to be a teensy toe in but I don't know how much. I expect it to dance a little bit with a straight toe.

    It's going to be better than nothing til I get the front rebuilt.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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    Humans are not an endangered species!
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  4. #103
    7,000 Post Club wrench459 (R.I.P.)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post

    I reset the toe to be perfectly straight.
    I'm going to guess a static measurement.
    If so then the tire's will be toe-out while traveling down road.
    There is also this little thing called "thrust angle".

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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  6. #104
    Über Genius First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    I'm going to guess a static measurement.
    If so then the tire's will be toe-out while traveling down road.
    There is also this little thing called "thrust angle".
    Correct. That's why, above, I said I know they are supposed to be toe in a teensy bit. I just don't know how much. Probably 3/4" @10 feet.

    Back in the day I had a device for measuring toe. And I had a list of common application measurements.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
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  7. #105
    7,000 Post Club wrench459 (R.I.P.)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    Correct. That's why, above, I said I know they are supposed to be toe in a teensy bit. I just don't know how much. Probably 3/4" @10 feet.

    Back in the day I had a device for measuring toe. And I had a list of common application measurements.
    Back in the day all we used was a toe stick.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  8. #106
    Über Genius First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    Back in the day all we used was a toe stick.
    Interesting that you are chiming in. I just found the thread where you were asking about toe in and I was the one that explained it to you.


    Yes, back in the day I did alignments with a stick (10 foot angle iron). Two to be more precise. And four paint cans.

    You lined the angle iron along the wheels, on top of the paint cans and measured at the front og the wheel and at the end of the angle iron. The basic principle being that the length of the angle iron multiplied the distance of the toe in making for an easier reading.

    That's why I said 3/4" at 10 feet. It's actually closer to 8 feet because the first two feet are alongside the wheel. If my rudimentary math is correct, 3/4 inch at 8 feet falls within the 1/32 - 1/8 total toe that's recommended in the service manual. (according to the thread you started a year ago)
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  9. #107
    Opeler zinthesky's Avatar
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    Cross-member damaged beyond repair?

    Decided to rebuild the front suspension and also change out the front spring to lower the car a bit. When I removed the lower control arms, I discovered excessive wear on the cross-member and the pads that cushion the spring on each side, see pics. I am pretty sure the holes are supposed to be round and not oval that to bolts go through on the cross-member, correct me if I am wrong. Should I replace the cross-member, if I don't I believe my lower control arms will be shifting around?

    BTW, the car did have some play in the steering, I thought it was just the rack, but it appears the LCAs might have been an issue as well.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #108
    Just Some Dude in Jersey The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Yes, replace it. Those bolts are normally locked down pretty tight, so that there's no chance of movement. Your bolts were obviously loose for a long time and have badly egged out the holes. Opel GT Source, Opels Unlimited, someone with a spare, etc. are your sources.

    I suppose you could weld up the holes and redrill them, assuming you trust the rest of that abused crossmember. For peace of mind I would replace it entirely.
    tomking likes this.

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