Shear bolt removal
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Thread: Shear bolt removal

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    Shear bolt removal

    I've read a dozen how-to s on "dropping the steering wheel" to get the dash out and every one says it is a PITA and then moves on. What I want to know is HOW to do it! I don't see a capture nut or anything that looks like it would help, just those 2 "bumper bolts" sitting there! Do I drill them out, use a punch and try to turn them out, or just a stick of dynamite and blow the little (censored) suckers straight to the place opposite heaven! Please someone a little more detail!

    After they (whose name should not be spoken) are out, any suggestions on the hood opening cable? This one won't move a single mm so after I loosen the handle from the bracket I have a solid rusted inside rod to trace through. This is the rustiest car I have ever worked on!

    Rant over, but help still needed! -- Doug
    Last edited by slracer; 1 Day Ago at 01:14 AM. Reason: spelling error

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    Can Opeler Knorm65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slracer View Post
    I've read a dozen how-to s on "dropping the steering wheel" to get the dash out and every one says it is a PITA and then moves on. What I want to know is HOW to do it! I don't see a capture nut or anything that looks like it would help, just those 2 "bumper bolts" sitting there! Do I drill them out, use a punch and try to turn them out, or just a stick of dynamite and blow the little (censored) suckers straight to the place opposite heaven! Please someone a little more detail!

    After they (whose name should not be spoken) are out, any suggestions on the hood opening cable? This one won't move a single mm so after I loosen the handle from the bracket I have a solid rusted inside rod to trace through. This is the rustiest car I have ever worked on!

    Rant over, but help still needed! -- Doug
    I cut a slot in them and turned with a flat head no problem.

    You can drill them out too. Just order new captures nut things or tack weld a new nut on when you damage the threads.

    You can replace with a standard hex bolt. The bolts are not a safety feature. That is a misconception.
    They were an easy way to torque the bolts to spec and ensure they weren’t tampered with by people.
    "Mira," 1970 Opel GT Working ARA AC, European 2.0L and Midikit
    "Kara," 1972 Opel GT Targa, Welded Doors, Rhinolined

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    Hopefully hood latch mechanism is not rusted.
    There is 1/2" hole in firewall, behind dash, that is there, just for that purpose.
    Use coat hanger or anything you can bend into a hook, snake it through hole, and snag lever that cable goes into.
    Pull lever back.
    https://www.opelgt.com/forums/2a-bod...html#post15357
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lindsay View Post
    Hopefully hood latch mechanism is not rusted.
    There is 1/2" hole in firewall, behind dash, that is there, just for that purpose.
    Use coat hanger or anything you can bend into a hook, snake it through hole, and snag lever that cable goes into.
    Pull lever back.
    https://www.opelgt.com/forums/2a-bod...html#post15357
    The mechanism has been removed but the cable is rusted solid and I need to remove the cable to remove the dash (it goes through a hole in the lower part of the panel). It is really stiff so I will probably cut it off short and leave the carcass until later. -- Doug

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    Detroit,where my home was 2 Fast 4 U's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Knorm65;1400975]I cut a slot in them and turned with a flat head no problem./QUOTE]

    That's the way I did it too
    Opel Ascona;
    Only built from 1970 - 1975




    Understeer: The front of the car hits the wall,
    Oversteer: The rear of the car hits the wall,
    Horsepower: How fast the car hits the wall,
    Torque: How far the car pushes the wall.

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    [quote] I cut a slot in them and turned with a flat head no problem./QUOTE]

    Quote Originally Posted by 2 Fast 4 U View Post
    That's the way I did it too
    Wish you were here! No problem cutting the slot (a little tight but the new Dremel worked well). However, there was no turn left unstoned! Drilled them out and moved on. Matt's "yellow" car is nearly naked now, fully stripped and getting her brother Orange ready to meet the AZ Motor Vehicle Department inspectors. I'll put some pics in soon but don't let your children look!

    The major problem with the stripping down was things were glued down (center console to carpet, etc). Matt will be a couple of days here in AZ, then head home with Orange on the trailer and a title in hand for the border guards. Thanks for all the input. Last task of the day today was dropping the engine for better access to the panels being cut off for repairing the "V-8 will be really good in there" cuts.

    Doug

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