It all depends on your tune. On a stock car with a stock tune the vacuum advance would be minimal below 1000.
With whatever mods you have, you may have your throttle plates open more at 1000rpm than a stock car and thus more vacuum advance there. My vacuum advance (when I had one) usually kicked in about 1000rpm as well, but definitely didn’t move the idle up that much if removed.
Your vacuum advance is plugged into the carburetor fitting correct?
If so you might need to richen or lean you mixture out.
Turn the mixture IN (leaner) until the engine SLIGHTLY slows down, and then turn the screw OUT (richer) about a full turn. This gives me the best air fuel ratio on every Opel I’ve worked on. After driving a bit you can experiment with turning the mixture screw in a little. I usually go back and forth 1/4 turn depending on the temperature outside.
Last edited by Knorm65; 05-02-2019 at 04:30 PM.
," 1970 Opel GT Working ARA AC, European 2.0L and Midikit
," 1972 Opel GT Targa, Welded Doors, Rhinolined, 40 DCOE SSD, Working GM AC
Correct, into the base of the carb.
I've often wondered If my setup is optimum... car runs great but maybe bins can be advanced further for more HP?. (set to 10 BTDC for start)
Originally Posted by Conaero
2.323L stroker, megasquirt EFI, 36/1 trigger wheel, ford EDIS, wasted spark, CR 8.7, isky cam, ported head, big valves
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