"Failure to start": 265 chevy pistons and valves
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Thread: "Failure to start": 265 chevy pistons and valves

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    "Failure to start": 265 chevy pistons and valves

    When making this conversion, did anyone experience "failure to start" issues? and if so, how was it resolved.
    All parts of the equation are covered, ((timing marks all on -- great compression (all 150 or better), great spark, and gas getting into the cylinders))
    Does not even attempt to start
    Last edited by kwilford; 9 Hours Ago at 02:37 AM.

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    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronaldwright View Post
    When making this conversion, did anyone experience "failure to start" issues? and if so, how was it resolved.
    All parts of the equation are covered, ((timing marks all on -- great compression (all 150 or better), great spark, and gas getting into the cylinders))
    Does not even attempt to start
    There’s nothing physically would prevent the engine from starting, presuming machine work is done correctly.

    Generally, no-start conditions on a new build boil down to one of three problems.

    1)cam timing
    2)fuel delivery
    3)ignition timing and/or no-spark condition

    Fuel delivery is easy to diagnose. Whether you have spark or not is easy to diagnose.

    Proper spark timing and cam timing take a bit longer to figure out, but are simple enough.
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    If you are getting 150 psi cranking compression, then your cam timing must be good, and the piston seal is adequate to good.

    Look at the plugs. Are they wet and do they smell of gas?

    And how are you testing spark? If you are looking at a spark jump a spark plug gap in open air that test is in no way valid to check that the spark is strong enough. It takes many times higher spark voltagae to jump the spark plug gap in a compressed fuel-air mixture than in open air. You have to connect a spark plug wire to a screw driver and put the screwdriver shaft near metal (like the body or valve cover) and the spark should jump 1/4" or more in open air.
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    Most common mistake, distributor firing is 180 degrees off

    Also, make sure you put the rotor on the dizzy shaft.
    Last edited by First opel 1981; 2 Days Ago at 01:52 AM.
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    No ground cable would be a problem, too. I forgot that when swapping motors one time.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manta Rallier View Post
    If you are getting 150 psi cranking compression, then your cam timing must be good, and the piston seal is adequate to good.

    Look at the plugs. Are they wet and do they smell of gas?

    And how are you testing spark? If you are looking at a spark jump a spark plug gap in open air that test is in no way valid to check that the spark is strong enough. It takes many times higher spark voltagae to jump the spark plug gap in a compressed fuel-air mixture than in open air. You have to connect a spark plug wire to a screw driver and put the screwdriver shaft near metal (like the body or valve cover) and the spark should jump 1/4" or more in open air.
    I have tested the spark, both in the open air and will with the timing light. both show consistent firing -- they are not missing. Spark plugs were replaced twice during the testing process. On the off chance that the plugs had gotten fowled. There is a strong smell of gas in the cylinders if you pull the plugs and turn the engine over. -- Also, if you push it far enough out of time, the fire shooting out of the corroborator will travel halfway to the garage ceiling -- got my attention the 1st time that happened.

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    It’s most likely 180° out.
    Swap plug wires 1 and 4, and swap 3 and 2 then try.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronaldwright View Post
    -- Also, if you push it far enough out of time, the fire shooting out of the corroborator will travel halfway to the garage ceiling -- got my attention the 1st time that happened.
    Are you SURE that the distributor is not 180 degrees out? That sure sounds like it.

    It is a very common mistake, since the cam timing is set with #4 at TDC in firing position, NOT #1 as most folks might think. But the distributor install instructions require that the crank be rotated 360 degrees, which puts #1 at TDC in firing position. Easy to check, by moving the plug wires so that #1 is the top left (versus the bottom right) on the cap, and follow the firing order clockwise: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 . Or pull the distributor, set the engine to firing position on #1 (valves closed, ball lined up w/ timing mark) and reinstall the distributor. Then try rotating the distributor as you try to start it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwilford View Post
    Are you SURE that the distributor is not 180 degrees out? That sure sounds like it.

    It is a very common mistake, since the cam timing is set with #4 at TDC in firing position, NOT #1 as most folks might think. But the distributor install instructions require that the crank be rotated 360 degrees, which puts #1 at TDC in firing position. Easy to check, by moving the plug wires so that #1 is the top left (versus the bottom right) on the cap, and follow the firing order clockwise: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 . Or pull the distributor, set the engine to firing position on #1 (valves closed, ball lined up w/ timing mark) and reinstall the distributor. Then try rotating the distributor as you try to start it.
    I agree with Keith, and the others... have spark,, have fuel,,, and it's a Flame thrower LOL Holy Cow Garage ceiling .. 180 out

    If it was me , I'd pull the Dist. Do a 360 rotation, reinstall with #1 TDC.. I think this way you will have more adjustment of the timing, as the vac. can will have more adjust too.. JMHO


    So with Chevy 265 Pistons and Valves .. is that a 2.0 engine,, Interesting ??
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    Quote Originally Posted by opellane View Post
    So with Chevy 265 Pistons and Valves .. is that a 2.0 engine,, Interesting ??
    Call it an ‘Americanized’ 2.0.

    European 2.0 liter is 95 mm bore, making it 1979 cc’s.

    With standard-bore 265 Chevy (3.75”/95.25 mm) pistons, you would have 1989 cc’s.

    Stock Opel 2.0 liter valves are 42 mm intake (1.65”), and 36 mm exhaust (1.42”).

    Chevy 265 valves are 1.72” intake, and 1.50” exhaust.
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    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
    Call it an ‘Americanized’ 2.0.

    European 2.0 liter is 95 mm bore, making it 1979 cc’s.

    With standard-bore 265 Chevy (3.75”/95.25 mm) pistons, you would have 1989 cc’s.

    Stock Opel 2.0 liter valves are 42 mm intake (1.65”), and 36 mm exhaust (1.42”).

    Chevy 265 valves are 1.72” intake, and 1.50” exhaust.
    The Chevy Stock 265 Pistons will fit the Forged stock Opel Rods?? Interesting?


    The Stock Chevy 265 I/E Valves/springs and Retainers , install new valve guides "" Will all fit the Opel Cylinder Head" ?

    Bob, Do you have a thread on how to do this Mod. ?? Interesting
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    Quote Originally Posted by opellane View Post
    The Chevy Stock 265 Pistons will fit the Forged stock Opel Rods?? Interesting?


    The Stock Chevy 265 I/E Valves/springs and Retainers , install new valve guides "" Will all fit the Opel Cylinder Head" ?

    Bob, Do you have a thread on how to do this Mod. ??
    Well, it’s not THAT easy. But it’s been done for 40+ years so it’s nothing new.

    The Chevy pistons have a .927” pin diameter. Opel uses 23 mm (.907” basically) so you need to have the pin end of the rods bored out.

    Of course the block must be bored .090”, which is typically done in two passes so it costs more than a normal re-bore.

    To install the valves, it requires installing valve guides with a reduced ID. Opel uses 9 mm valve stems (.354”), but the Chevy uses 11/32” (.341”).

    The Chevy springs are generally too tall for the Opel head casting. Over the years a lot of people have used short (but bigger OD) Pontiac 400 valve springs and retainers. This requires machining the spring seats both in depth and OD.

    I don’t have a recipe or thread on this as it’s too old-school for me, the last time I did a head like this was in the late 1980’s. Much better ways to do it now, although they do cost more.

    I have threads on my preferred methodology to do a big valve head but it uses all aftermarket racing-quality parts, not the stock Chevy stuff. You’ll have to search for it because it’s been years since I’ve written it and I have no idea what the title was or when I did it exactly.
    Last edited by RallyBob; 23 Hours Ago at 01:29 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by opellane View Post


    So with Chevy 265 Pistons and Valves .. is that a 2.0 engine,, Interesting ??

    The Chevy Stock 265 Pistons will fit the Forged stock Opel Rods?? Interesting?


    The Stock Chevy 265 I/E Valves/springs and Retainers , install new valve guides "" Will all fit the Opel Cylinder Head" ?

    Bob, Do you have a thread on how to do this Mod. ?? Interesting
    As already mentioned, This old info that's been written about and done many times on this forum.
    Last edited by Vincent; 1 Day Ago at 02:58 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knorm65 View Post
    It’s most likely 180° out.
    Swap plug wires 1 and 4, and swap 3 and 2 then try.
    I tried this, and the car started -- months of frustration and it turns out to be a rookie mistake--

    Thanks everyone for responding -- you have really made my day.

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    I would bet every Opel owner has had their distributor 180 degrees off and had the experience of
    fuel shooting out the carburetor like a volcano But it sure is a good feeling once you correct
    it and get it to start and run smoothly

    Glad to hear you got it corrected.

    Keep on Opeling rubber side down and shiny side up
    Make a difference and help someone today
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    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
    Well, it’s not THAT easy. But it’s been done for 40+ years so it’s nothing new.

    The Chevy pistons have a .927” pin diameter. Opel uses 23 mm (.907” basically) so you need to have the pin end of the rods bored out.

    Of course the block must be bored .090”, which is typically done in two passes so it costs more than a normal re-bore.

    To install the valves, it requires installing valve guides with a reduced ID. Opel uses 9 mm valve stems (.354”), but the Chevy uses 11/32” (.341”).

    The Chevy springs are generally too tall for the Opel head casting. Over the years a lot of people have used short (but bigger OD) Pontiac 400 valve springs and retainers. This requires machining the spring seats both in depth and OD.

    I don’t have a recipe or thread on this as it’s too old-school for me, the last time I did a head this was was in the late 1980’s. Much better ways to do it now, although they do cost more.

    I have threads on my preferred methodology to do a big valve head but it uses all aftermarket racing-quality parts, not the stock Chevy stuff. You’ll have to search for it because it’s been years since I’ve written it and I have no idea what the title was or when I did it exactly.
    https://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-e...opel-head.html
    https://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-e...html#post13287
    https://www.opelgt.com/forums/conten...alve-head.html
    Last edited by Mercougary; 23 Hours Ago at 12:58 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronaldwright View Post
    I tried this, and the car started -- months of frustration and it turns out to be a rookie mistake--

    Thanks everyone for responding -- you have really made my day.
    Wow, if only someone had mentioned this in the first 4 replies....

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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    Wow, if only someone had mentioned this in the first 4 replies....
    I thought I did in my first reply?
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    Most common mistake, distributor firing is 180 degrees off

    Also, make sure you put the rotor on the dizzy shaft.
    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    Wow, if only someone had mentioned this in the first 4 replies....

    Lol

    Guess no one was listening ....
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    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
    I thought I did in my first reply?
    You did, kind of.
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