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Another new noise

8K views 61 replies 14 participants last post by  The Cub 
#1 ·
I was pulling into the driveway the other night, for the first time there’s a new noise coming from the 4 speed or clutch, at first I thought it was the pilot bearing. A dispute I had with the machine shop assembly person was over the installation, I thought it was supposed to go in only one way, he said it didn’t matter so I’ve always wondered if it’s in backwards, now I know that there’s stamped printing on the top of the sleeve that faces out but didn’t know that then. The clutch alignment tool was easy to install into the bearing but the transmission was a PITA. I read on another forum that even if it’s installed backwards it shouldn’t matter once the shaft is in that it’s taper is only to help guide the transmission shaft in. Then I read on the internet with the symptoms it’s having that it’s likely the entry bearing in the transmission. Then when I talked with Gil he said that there’s a needle bearing in the transmission only used between 1st, 2nd & 3rd that wears out and could possibly make that sort of noise, he advised me to try using 85w140 transmission lube since I live in a warm climate. I evacuated a quart and replaced it with the heavier lubricant. Still no difference. Overall the transmission does seem quieter but the noise is no quieter. I’d like to think it’s the release bearing since I’ve always had problems with that before, it came and went with no harm done but this has a slightly different sound. So I’m hoping that maybe someone else has a similar noise and it’s a normal wear and tear item such as this needle bearing Gil mentions, he said that the transmission can still run for years like that. Right now I have no idea if it’s transmission or clutch related. When driving in 4th even slowly I cannot hear it but the tire noise on the road is also a bit too loud to hear it anyway. The noise is almost undetected in neutral but sometimes I think I can hear something but it’s very well pronounced in the lower gears. It’s difficult to hear but can anyone identify what it might be?
https://youtu.be/xIeGulr4KIc
 
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#5 ·
Can you describe the noise better? Is it a light rattling sound? I can't quite be sure what I am hearing in the video..... is it the light 'locomotive'-like sound? With it disappearing when the clutch is depressed, then the release bearing area is at the top of the list. It could be a as simple as the release bearing now being very slightly in contact with the pressure plate release fingers in normal running and constantly turning.

The pullback spring on the release arm could be gone;l that is easy to visually check for. Or, the clutch adjustment needs to be tweaked just a tad to allow the release arm to pull the bearing off of these fingers. If the clutch release arm was originally adjusted so the release bearing was close to the pressure plate fingers with the clutch pedal at rest, then wear on the clutch disc will naturally cause the pressure plate release fingers to move further and further out, and eventually the gap between these fingers and the release bearing will close up and this adjustment will need to be done. So you could just be experiencing normal wear on the clutch disc.

Assuming you have a 1.9L, this is done at the ball stud adjustment over on the back side passenger side of the bellhousing... it can be hard to reach. If you adjust it, loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting stud a bit CCW, as viewed from the rear. Watch when you loosen/tighten the locknut, as the ball stud may turn with it, so keep track of that. The clutch will release/engage at a slightly lower position, so don't over do this. I'd try 1/2 turn on that stud to start. If you adjust it CCW too much, then the clutch will not fully release, even at full pedal depression, and you will have trouble shifting, etc.
 
#10 ·
As well said, the pilot bushing/bearing sees use just in certain circumstances, and not when you are hearing this noise. I've had them dry as a bone or almost falling apart and had no issues LOL.

The 1/2 turn is just a suggestion.... the real point is to get some slack between the release bearing and the pressure plate fingers.

Crawl under there and see if you can move the clutch arm forward a bit by hand; if it is snug or tight, with little or no forward movement by hand, then it is too tight and that is keeping the release bearing in contact with the PP fingers all the time; it'll be spinning the release bearing and wearing it out, like happens for those users who 'ride the clutch'.

BTW, the measurement you show is good, but realize that parts variations, and variations in the machining of the flywheel step. make that just a starting point and not a 100% guarantee of proper throw-out arm adjustment.
 
#12 ·
I like where you are going with this, anything that involves not pulling the transmission is a good bargain. I’ll check on the spring tension today and give it an adjustment on the nut when accessible. If nothing is discovered with the spring I’ll see if I can get to the nut with the carburetor and all that happy horse stuff in the way.
 
#13 · (Edited)
That is the easy place to start!

BTW, as far as not being noisy in 4th, that could support the idea from Gil that the needle bearings inside the back end of the trannie's input shaft are worn. The input shaft has a round machined recess in the back end of that part (inside the trannie case), in which the nose of the mainshaft rests; there are a set of needles there to support the main shaft nose inside that recess. The input and main shaft are spinning at different speeds in gears 1, 2 and 3 (and reverse) and the needles are there to allow them to spin at different speeds smoothly. In 4th gear, the front slider locks the mainshaft and input shaft together so they spin at the same exact speed. So the needles are out of the picture in 4th; they can be worn and noisy in all gears but 4th, and will be quiet in 4th.

Being 'not noisy' in neutral would be logical, as there is no loading on the shafts and gears then. These needles are part of what keeps the mainshaft aligned properly, and the gears meshed properly, and if they get bad then those things go out of line. (Similarly the front bearing around the input shaft keeps the input and main shaft gears aligned with the countershaft gears, and it could be worn and not as noisy in 4th as other gears.)

That whole area tends to be pretty solid in these trannies with the stock engines at least. But with miles and wear and unknown maintenance by PO's, who knows. And I would not expect this to show up all of a sudden, unless one of the needles disintegrated. It also can make shifting into 4th gear a bit harder.

Edit to add: And you do have the gasket between the bellhousing and trannie, and that area is clean?
 
#14 ·
Yes, vigilance was done in installing a new gasket between the bell housing & transmission. I need to back pedal a little. I AM getting noise in neutral, not as loud but definitely the same noise is present. The only time it goes away is by engaging the clutch. The more I listen the more it sounds like the throw out bearing could be rubbing against the fingers of the clutch plate. I think you hit it spot on. The slack on the clutch arm at rest seems good, I get about an inch of spring tensioned free play on the arm before it starts to engage. I do have some minor slop on the nubs that hold the release bearing. I measured them with a micrometer and the they are a little shy of where they should be. I have yet to look at the adjustment screw on the bell housing yet. When I do I’ll start with the 1/2 turn out like you suggested.
 
#15 ·
If a sound, as you describe, changes when you touch or press the clutch pedal it's almost ALWAYS the throwout bearing.

Some people, myself included, rest their foot on the clutch pedal. This wears out the TB really quick.

Also, a known reason this will manifest itself is because the clutch fork return spring breaks or comes off. Even the most seasoned Opel driver wouldn't notice this spring breaking or coming off.
 
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#17 ·
On my old clutch/1.9 engine I was guilty all the way of keeping the clutch in at stop lights, my throw out bearing was so noisy that the only way to silence it was by resting my foot a little on the pedal probably what was mentioned earlier a weak return spring. When I took the engine to get rebuilt they found a worn loose thrust bearing. The release bearing was seized when I removed the old clutch but the clutch still worked. You know where all this is headed, I developed some really bad habits over the years. A year ago I installed the new complete OGTS clutch with a new pilot bearing and since stopped some of my bad habits, I don’t ever push the clutch in at stop lights anymore but First Opel brought up something that I wasn’t aware of and I’m still guilty of doing and that’s keeping my foot on the pedal, probably unknowingly taking up the free play on the pedal. There it is now, what I’m learning from you guys is the release bearing while not putting stress on the crank thrust bearing which I’m vigilant about now, is still making contact with the fingers on the clutch plate if I’m getting this right which then has increased the chances of pre mature wear of the new release bearing. To re confirm the noise does go away when the clutch pedal is pushed down. The top culprit now points to the release bearing going south, I’ll need to stop resting my foot on the pedal, the next thing I need to do is to verify one way or another that it is clear from contact with the fingers on the clutch plate when the clutch pedal is not being used, in other words not getting hung up from going to it’s full return position. Correct me if I’m wrong but if I can move the arm between 1/2” to 1 1/4” before it makes contact with the pressure plate that adjustment should be fine right? No need to adjust the screw on the passenger side? If that’s correct then I’ll focus more on weather it’s returning to that spot or getting hung up from fully returning (assuming my foot isn’t on the pedal LOL) and still making contact against the pressure plate. I’ll check the positioning of the arm when I hear the noise next. Thank you again for the valuable input.
 
#18 ·
If you have been 'riding the clutch' or 'resting on the clutch', then that is very likely the problem by itself! Yeah, keep that foot off the clutch pedal unless you mean to use it! LOL (And my brother would wear the crap out of TO bearings and clutches by 'hill holding' with the clutch.)

The only reason I can think of that your arm movement is not sufficient is if the pins on the throwout arm are worn so much that the TO bearing is not being pulled back completely away from the pressure plate fingers. Or the TO arm is hanging up like you say.

I am NOT thinking your TO bearing is worn out. If it was, then it would be noisy when you push on the clutch pedal. It is just in constant contact with the PP fingers, making a rattling noise.

BTW: Since we are talking about bad habits, DON'T rest your arm on the gear lever while running. It will wear out the forks and slider rings in the gear box.
 
#20 ·
When I installed the new clutch I just adjusted it to where it always felt comfortable. I checked this morning and I found that I had 2” of free pedal travel. I adjusted it to 1 1/4” but I have a feeling that the pedal height is too high. Does the adjustment screw on the passenger side counteract the pedal height? I haven’t been able to get to that side yet and I will, but I’m trying to understand what the difference is between adjustment at the cable vs. adjustment at the screw? The FSM falls short in differentiating the two. I’m guessing that you’re trying to equalize the two somehow by using both? Can anyone explain the results of either adjustment more descriptively than the manual?
 

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#22 ·
Adjusting the ball stud changes the relationship between the throw out bearing and arm, the pressure plate fingers, and the angle of the TO arm out of the bellhousing. That is the measurement that I think you made before and is in one FSM section.

The other adjustment is for the length of the clutch cable. It is used to compensate for that length so that the clutch pedal will engage & release at the right height with the setting of the TO arm as above, and is in the other FSM section.
 
#24 ·
Thanks guys I think I’m getting it now. On my old clutch I never adjusted the passenger side all I ever did was adjust the pedal height with the clutch cable. I guess never had the need to. When I set this new clutch up I went by the 3/4” and 4 1/2” rule. I get too hung up on ideal starting points and think that’s where it’s always supposed to be. Just those three helpful posts cleared up what’s actually going on. It’s important to understand the details, otherwise I’m just blindly moving things around, I’m good now. I gotta get after the passenger side adjuster, it won’t be any surprise now to anyone that adjusting my cable/pedal height did absolutely nothing to silence the noise. Slowed down by a re injury of my left rotator cuff over the weekend otherwise I’d have been trying your original suggestion already Manta Rallier even though I didn’t quite understand as well.
 
#27 ·
I’ve had it for 10 years, keeping the surgeons away with daily PT. I slept on it wrong or something, it’s already getting better knock on wood but the doctor is getting me scheduled for am MRI, I’ll leave the rest of the gory details for another time. I found I can access that adjuster from underneath the car much easier. I was looking at it from the top before. See the other post I just sent, still have to test drive it yet.
 
#26 ·
I was able to get to the passenger side adjustment screw this morning. I backed it out 1 full turn. I may be barking up the wrong tree because I’m back to 2” of free play on the clutch pedal again before it engages, all indications so far are that I’ve had plenty of clearance all along. I’ll drive it around in the next few days to prove weather it’s going to be any different with the noise problem, it’s been a good learning experience and as suggested, a harmless place to start. If the noise is still present, I would love to be wrong and have it be gone. I’ll double check to make sure everything adjustment wise is close to specs. My guess is that will require additional CW adjustment on the passenger side to get the 1” of free pedal play since I’ve got too much now.
 
#29 ·
Okay so the official verdict is the noise didn’t go away after taking it out on a test drive, perhaps because of my admittedly bad driving habits on the clutch IF this is the case it would be the third TO bearing of three clutches that went south. Of course I’m fishing the internet for the symptoms I’m having and ran across what this mechanic posted: “I’ve replaced many throwout bearings before a clutch has even worn out and most of them are loose and junk.....some of them you can actually pull apart with your bare hands. I'm not typing this stuff up in theory. I'm typing it up on the actual mechanics of how the clutch assembly works and my experience as a technician in the field. I have yet to come accross a throwout bearing that makes more noise when the clutch is being disengaged”. I am certainly not an auto mechanic like Manta Rallier and some of the other guys on the forum and I’m not sure what it is if it’s the transmission needle bearing thing Gil mentioned he said it could last for years to come, it could be something else in the transmission. I do believe that a bad release bearing is not always at its loudest when the clutch pedal is on the floor, my last one started with the rattle between the nubs on the arm, then due to my resting the foot habit to silence the rattle it then it started to squeal when the pedal is pushed in ending up with a seized up bearing that must have found enough clearance around the transmission shaft for years to spin because it wasn’t making noise at all with the pedal on the floor. A pretty gory story I know and I’m not really wanting a repeat. It’s a quiet but disheartening noise that can only be heard at idle or just above. Oh, and the heavier transmission lubricant has now made it as quiet as it was before throughout and up north of 6300 RPMs. I’m going to re adjust it as mentioned earlier and gonna just drive it with new good habits (I’m not as good as this guy :drive: but I don’t let my arm rest on the shifter) until I get my exhaust completed, I tried listening underneath the car and the exhaust is too loud without a resonator. It drives and shifts as good as it ever has. If it’s something serious I suppose it’s going to get louder or rear it’s ugly head. I’m at a loss for now.
 
#30 ·
First,if you have a fail or damage throw out bearing. You will hear more noise when push the clutch.
I didn´t know what kind of clutch you use. There are a lot of them in the aftermarket.
Aftermarket most come with a plastic bearing.The original have full metal bearing.
At this point if you have a nearly kind of original Clutch. The you must start with adjust at passenger side adjust bolt for the fork.
There is a Fix measure at this bolt you can read and look in the Hand Book chapter clutch. After adjust the bolt then start to adjust the cable.
Most it fit ever.Otherwise the bolt ball head or fork ball pan is worn out.

Norbert
 
#33 ·
It’s all OGTS, everything stock. I adjusted the passenger side so that the pedal has 1” of free play now the passenger side adjuster is out about 1/2” and the clutch release bearing now engages at 4.75” out which seems needed if I’m to achieve the 1” of pedal free play. It was originally set up at 4.5” away from the bell housing and I think I had a lot more pedal free play then. I like Manta Rallier’s suggestion, I’ll get under there and check to be sure everything is tight. Then just drive it. Maybe once I quiet things down on the exhaust I’ll be able to pinpoint its location better. I’ll post any further developments if or when they occur otherwise just figure there’s been no change and I just have a new noise to put up with. Input has been greatly appreciated.
 
#31 ·
Well, you tried the easy fix, which is where you start. Again, if the bearing does not get louder when you use the clutch, then the TO bearing is likely not worn itself. Other than pulling the trannie and bellhousing and starting to check things out like the needle bearings, all I can think of are:
- Maybe the arm itself is loose and rattling on the ball stud
- Maybe the TO bearing is rattling on the tube at the front of the trannie
- Maybe there is some loose bolt between trannie and bellhousing and/or engine that is being pulled tight when you use the clutch.

Get under there (when your shoulder allows), and make sure all the bolts are tight on the trannie and bellhousing and torque brace and dust cover.

That repetitive locomotive type of noise seems familiar and ought to say something, but I'll be darned if I can place it LOL
 
#32 ·
BTW, may I ask another question on the symptoms? Does this noise go away if, while sitting still, you just put light or moderate pressure on the clutch pedal, or do you have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch to make the noise go away? If the former, then this is more likely in the area of the throwout bearing.

If the latter, it is more likely inside the trannie. The reason for that is that if you disengage the clutch, then the input shaft and the countergears slow down and stop moving, and any bearing noise from that area will stop

If it IS inside the trannie, then it ought to be addressed sooner rather than seeing how long it will last, unless you want to source another trannie. There are the needles between the input shaft and main shaft that have been mentioned, and there are also bearings on the countergear set and the countershaft that supports it. If either of these bearings sets start to go and wear too far, they will wear out the surrounding bits beyond easy repair. (And I cannot say with any certainty if things have worn too far already if the noise source is inside the trannie...)
 
#34 ·
You have now the pilot bearing in the crank. Otherwise you can not install the clutch in center exacly:no:
It would be stress for the trans bearing #19 on the third picture.
Here you can look at both measures "X" = 18mm and "Y" =107mm for the bal head bolt and the fork.
 

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#35 ·
See post #9 I did replace the pilot bearing with a new one from OGTS. I wish I could read German, that last attachment #19 I’ve never seen before. 107mm is close to 4.25” and 18mm is less than 3/4” so that would be on a newly installed clutch. I’m at 120mm and 13mm as I said when I set it up to the specs you have on your attachment when new. I got about 50mm of free play on the clutch pedal. So the pedal lash wasn’t exactly like the book from the get go. I assume that with some clutch pad wear the pedal free play (now at 25mm) is the most important. Let me know if I’m not getting what you might be trying to tell me.
 
#36 ·
The 4.25” adjustment is critical for proper clutch release geometry.

The free play just ensures you don’t wear out the release bearing.

I typically undo the cable adjustment (remove the clip), and adjust the clutch pivot via the 4.25” measurement. THEN adjust the free play at the cable.

You can do it the other way around, but then the fulcrum will be wrong. This will increase pedal effort and contribute to the cable possibly breaking.
 
#38 ·
How in the world do you know all this? No wonder I went through 2 clutch cables on my last clutch e gads. I climbed under there again this morning and got it to 4.25” (with the TO bearing up against the clutch plate like in the picture Norbertone sent) adjusted the free play on the pedal to 1.25” the clutch engages more towards the top of the stroke, I’ll just get used to it. Do you have any jack the car up (engine not running) and listen for this suggestions to pinpoint this new phantom noise? Since I’ve notoriously gone through TO bearings I’m guessing it still could be that. I’m having the exhaust redone with the Ceramic coated Sprint, 13 gage exhaust tubing to your suggested 2” to 2.5” over the axle, terminated with two 2” Hedman resonator tips. I’ll be able to hear more when she’s running then if there’s nothing to test with the engine not running. Thanks again for your input Bob
 
#37 ·
Good to know! I hear that the new advantage cable and Lock Ring should be the best since the GT is on the road.
The Clip Ring will not crack longer!
Maybe,but I`m a Automatic driver.

Here have a look at the Lock Ring and the Cable Set.I add a picture from Factory Cable install measures.

https://www.splendidparts.de/kaufhaus_2/Opel-GT/Motorraum-und-Getriebe/Getriebe-und-Kupplung/Maxi-Sicherungsring-Kupplungszug-Opel-GT?source=2&refertype=1&referid=118&languageid=2

https://www.splendidparts.de/kaufhaus_2/en/Opel-GT/Engine-and-Transmission/Gearbox-und-Clutch/Clutch-Cable-Advantage-Set-Opel-GT?source=2&refertype=1&referid=118
 

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#40 ·
Yes you’re talking about the clip at the end of the arm that kinda wraps itself around the bottom of the adjustment screw. Yes that’s in place, how tight? It might be a little loose but tight enough to keep things in place. I don’t know why but I remember having to bend it out and pushed it back in place but it didn’t seat quite as nicely. I remember putting grease in there since it’s a moving part I know grease is a dust magnet so I was neat about adding a little bit around the screw head. I do have the dust boot around the arm where it enters the bell housing. I’m willing to take any theory on at this point. The noise does sound like it’s coming from that location (the passenger side of the tunnel). Maybe that assembly is a little loose and the grease has worn down? I did ask Gil if he had any clutch arms because the nubs were worn too but he didn’t have any. Funny thing is that it’s only noisy in neutral, first and second I cannot hear anything in third or fourth. It could be related to the smoothness of the engine the it seems lower the RPMs the louder. Now that I think back before this it was more like something was vibrating on the passenger side lower RPMs the headlights drag the RPMs down 50-100 rpms and it was down near 600 That’s when I decided to get the rpm’s up a little with the idle speed screw to silence the vibration. I thought it was the exhaust or something else. Now I’m all of a sudden wondering if it could be related. This stuff I’m talking about now is all is happening neutral btw. I’ll lower the rpms again and try for another recording. If it’s as loud as it was before it should be more distinct on the recording. But you would think that a little pressure on the clutch pedal would eliminate it if it were that and it doesn’t. The clutch must be down to the floor for silence. Also another suspect on my list would be the entry bearings on the transmission, what makes me stop running with that theory is that 3rd & 4th there’s no noise. Wouldn’t that be noisy in all gears?
 
#41 ·
I agree with you: If the ball end of the TO arm was loose on the ball stud, then just a little pedal pressure out to tighten that up and stop any rattling.

It sounds like you have a new observation: As I read it, the clutch fully to the floor (disengaged) gets things to be quiet in neutral, 1st, and 2nd, but there is no noise at all in 3rd or 4th with the clutch engaged or disengaged. Is that right? I just want to be sure to understand the particular symptom.

If this stops on 3rd and 4th gears, here is a possibility:
The gear select slider (3-4 gear clutch sleeve), fork, and shaft used to select those 2 gears is the same set of parts for both of those gears. When either 3rd or 4th gear is selected then those parts are not in their intermediate (or 'rest') position and will have some pressure on them all the time. When neither 3 or 4 is selected, then these parts will be riding loose. Interestingly, the shift fork and the shaft that moves this 3-4 slider is on the passenger side. The 3-4 fork could be worn and rattling in the slider groove when not in either gear, the 3-4 shifter shaft might be worn, etc. Is there any slop in the gear selection of 3rd or 4th, or do you need to push extra far for either gear to ensure engagement, that might indicate some wear in this area?

So that is the thought: When in neutral, 1st and 2nd, these internal 3-4 shift parts are loose (not engaged), and may be rattling as the other gears run. Either stopping the input shaft and counter gear from turning (by fully disengaging the clutch) or taking up that looseness (by selecting either 3rd or 4th) may be stopping the noise in this area.

Oh, and Mr Legere knows all this clutch and cable stuff from long experience!
 
#42 ·
Yes, those are the symptoms exactly. In the transmissions life about 20 years ago 3rd used to be hard to get into, double clutching etc. over the years it got easier for some reason and kind of fixed itself within a few years, or idk maybe 5 years or so. When I asked the mechanic back then why it was difficult he said that the sycro was worn in that spot and didn’t seem concerned it just was viewed as a nuisance by myself and not worth overhauling the transmission as long as it worked I drove it. The only thing I have observed lately is it is easy to bump the shifter out of 4th with a little accidental forward motion or accidental bump from behind. All gears are easy to get into and shifting is very smooth, no extended effort on the pedal or shifter is needed at all, as it’s been for years. Worth noting, it does disengage very easily out of 4th though. Hmmm.... I’ll lower the RPMs and get another recording there is or was certainly something unhealthy going on. I’m open to anything, I might be in the market for another 4-speed, assuming it doesn’t disintegrate quickly or become so much more obvious that it’s something else by then, once I quiet down the exhaust climbing underneath the car and pinpointing transmission or clutch will should be somewhat easier. I’m interested in any further thoughts or ideas you may have. Yes, we are all fortunate Bob has not only taken a liking to Opels as gifted as he is, but also there are few people with the integrity and dedication that he has. I have no doubt that his new business will do well when he gets it off the ground. I’m excited for him.
 
#43 ·
OK, well there are small shaped 'keys' in slots between the slider and the hub that we are talking about; I call them 'dogs'. (No, I don't know why!) Their job is too prevent the slider from moving too easily and letting the trannie pop out of gear or to randmoly engage. These dogs can wear, their springs can weaken, or other wear in that area can effect them. Their alignment, etc., will effect the force going in and out of a gear. (I had a '65 Pontiac GTO trannie with bad dogs or dog springs and it would pop out of 4th as soon as you released the throttle... every time.)

The synchro's are inside these hubs and work on them and the associated gear on the main shaft. Double-clutching and hard gear selection is usually associated with worn synchro's but the trannie fluid is another big factor. Synthetics are not known to work particularly well with synchros of this era, and gear oil that is old and broken down will make synchros in these boxes not work well. So maybe you changed the gear oil and fixed that.....??

But sounds like this area has perhaps been an issue for a while in your trannie... assuming this idea is anywhere near to the real reason! It can only be seen by dissassembly. With the generally good durablity of these trannies in normal use, getting another ought not be much of an issue. I'd continue to monitor and explore the symptoms like you plan, make sure other easy to reach tings are good, and maybe look for another trannie in the meanwhile. It probably won't suddenly explode on you... but no guarantees on any of this! Diagnostics through the internet is only so good LOL
 
#44 ·
https://youtu.be/JniRF-UNonY

I finally got a definitive recording while creeping along in 1st. Still a little muffled but the general symptoms show up unmistakably. I’m leaning towards Manta Rallier’s transmission diagnose. He’s right about it only being so good over the internet we have to make the final call. But it sure helps. So I suppose if anyone else has had a noise & symptoms similar to this it could be helpful. 1st & 2nd I get this noise especially when putting pressure on the trans to move forward or decel (a little above idle) it kinda goes away even while engaged in 1st or 2nd if the car is coasting with no pressure or force on the gearbox, neutral I get it but not quite as loud and again it goes away completely in 3rd & 4th and of course when the pedal is depressed to the floor. It’s sure looking like a transmission issue. I’ve read a lot of threads on our site where 4th just goes away and my very first Opel back in 81’ (a 71’1900) had the same problem, 4th was gone when I bought it for a discount because the previous owner didn’t want to deal with it. Then talk about luck, we found an abandoned stripped out Manta behind the Napa store in Aspen with a missing engine and a 4-speed just dangling there, we kept our eyes on it for a couple of weeks, talked to the Napa store and they said that was free game so we ended up with a good transmission and a direct swap out. Maybe this is the pre curser for my old tuckered transmission? All gears are still there and I’m being gentle with it. I’m just waiting to go there and find nothing in 4th one of these times, that’s what happened to the first one in the 1900. I’d been doing a lot of hard revs in second to redline over the last couple of years but don’t know if that’s related, with a 46 year old transmission it wouldn’t be to surprising. I did notice a little more intermittent clunking starting up a year or so ago and I thought it was the torque tube, I replaced that, so it’s not related to any clunking. Still a little intermittent every now and then.
 
#46 ·
Here’s a used one from someone who lives nearby but the pictures make it hard to tell. Can anyone tell if it’s a 69-70’ or 71-73’? What sort of inspections can be done out of the car to up the percentages of its reliability?
 

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#47 ·
Here’s a picture of my current transmission before when I had it out about a year ago. Very little metal was found on the magnet. If anyone can educate me on what to look for when I check out the next prospect that would be great. My knowledge stops after trying to shift it around and looking at the front input shaft (i realize it’s supposed to have a good bit of play) only goes about that far.
 

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#48 ·
In your open trannie pix, the countershaft is closest to you, and the main shaft is underneath, in-line with the input and output shafts. The forks are reaching under the countershaft to sliders that ride on the main shaft; the forks and sliders are what select individual gears. There are bearings at each end of the counter gear shaft that ride on a solid shaft inside and wear plates at each end.

The main shaft is the most complex inner assembly and has the 4 synchros and a few bearings buried within, with just the edges of the brass synchros visible when assembled and out of gear. The dog teeth and springs are contained inside the sliders.

Wish I had a batter diagram. My '74 manual has an exploded diagram on pg 7B-28 but that may be hard for a new person to follow. If you had it in your hands, and saw it taken apart, you would say "AHAH, I see'! It's very intuitive.
 
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