32/36 idle cut off solenoid
OpelGT.com is the premier Opel GT Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Results 1 to 12 of 12
Like Tree3Likes
  • 2 Post By opelspyder
  • 1 Post By guyopel

Thread: 32/36 idle cut off solenoid

  1. #1
    Senior Member The Cub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    545
    Real Name
    Tom
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0

    32/36 idle cut off solenoid

    Has anyone else had any problems with the Weber idle solenoids? I have two old idle cut off solenoids and tried them both and I couldn’t get the idle jet to seat with either one. One has a little thin wave washer, the other is just threaded like the idle jet holder. I’ve never been able to get the cut off solenoid to seat right years ago I’ve had problems in the past from over tightening and wrecking the seat it was so many years ago at least that’s what I thought happened. I’m really phobic of wrecking the seat on my recently purchased 32/36. The jet seats just fine in the jet holder. I took the jet and slipped it forward a little out of the solenoid’s holder, screwed it all the way even without the o’ring and it hadn’t slipped back all the way back into the holder, I had to push it a small bit more for it to be in the jet holder like it’s supposed to be in order for the jet to make contact with the seat. I tried it on an old Weber and tightened it really tight, same thing. The holder just simply doesn’t extend as far on the solenoid as it does with the brass jet holder. I’ll try tech support on Monday I just thought I’d ask around. I can’t understand what I’m missing back to the brass jet holder till I can figure this out.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    OpelGT.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    340
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Can it be that you have got the wrong solenoid ? There are several different ones in the books, which I found out when I started looking for a replacement for the one that died in one of my 38ADL's. I guess I have to convert to standard idle jets instead of trying to find the right solenoid because of the rarity of the ADL's.

  4. #3
    Senior Member The Cub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    545
    Real Name
    Tom
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Commodåren View Post
    Can it be that you have got the wrong solenoid ? There are several different ones in the books, which I found out when I started looking for a replacement for the one that died in one of my 38ADL's. I guess I have to convert to standard idle jets instead of trying to find the right solenoid because of the rarity of the ADL's.
    I was considering ordering a new one from Pierce Manifolds or Redline who sells genuine European Weber’s and Weber parts after I speak to the tech support. I’ve heard mixed opinions on them so I thought I’d put it out there.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    OpelGT.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Opel Key Master opelspyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    4,657
    Real Name
    Keith Lundholm
    Downloads
    4
    Uploads
    0
    In my opinion the only reason you even need one is if you can’t fix the initial problem with run on. I don’t like them, they could cause a problem, and if everything else is right...you wouldn’t need it
    guyopel and Commodåren like this.
    Check out our Opel restorations at
    www.newvintageauto.com

  7. #5
    Über Genius First opel 1981's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    8,540
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    It never occurred to me that the cutoff solenoid might be why I can't establish a smooth idle. I should play with it with, and without the cutoff solenoid.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  8. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    340
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Usually they either work or they don't. On my two carbureted engine one had died, while the other one in the second carb was still able to make it to barely idle. The plenums in the intake are connected, which made it possible to still idle with only one carb.

  9. #7
    1000 Post Club Vincent's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    1,368
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    It never occurred to me that the cutoff solenoid might be why I can't establish a smooth idle. I should play with it with, and without the cutoff solenoid.
    What carb are you running? I always had a hard time with this too. But I finally got my 2L and 38 dges to idle smoothly at 1100 rpms. 15 degrees BTDC for ignition and an air / fuel ratio of 12.5:1 or leaner. Amazing how smoothly it Idles now considering it has a combo cam.
    Last edited by Vincent; 1 Week Ago at 05:07 AM.

  10. #8
    Senior Member The Cub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    545
    Real Name
    Tom
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0
    I have a hard time believing that Weber makes all their idle solenoids too short so hopefully I’m the only one with this problem, since this website is to help others, anyone else who happens to have this issue of the idle jet not seating properly from the solenoids threads being too short, instead of cranking down and over tightening the solenoid what I did was cut out the spacer on this type of solenoid (see pic) with a Dremel tool added a couple of washers first to give the jet enough reach to seat properly with just a light snug then the o’ring. It seals up just as good as the idle jet does and I got the exact same air fuel ratio as I did with the jet holder.

    Just for the record I agree that I shouldn’t need a anti diesel solenoid it’s a slightly desperate attempt to compensate. I do get a nice smooth idle with the 32/36 set up by the book 1.5 turns out on the speed screw out, the only problem is I’m at 500 RPM. Ignition is 3 degrees advanced at idle, any more and I’m pinging the engine. I will need to limit my total advance to get another 5-10 degrees at idle 34 total is what it likes. So it’s a band aid for now so I can cheat an extra half turn or so in on the speed screw. 60 140/155 on the main 1 turn out on the mixture screw it what the 2.0 engine seems to like jetting wise. 12.5:1 afr @ idle.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #9
    Opeler Mr DJ-GT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    N. Hollywood Ca
    Posts
    76
    Real Name
    Mr DJ
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by The Cub View Post
    Has anyone else had any problems with the Weber idle solenoids? I have two old idle cut off solenoids and tried them both and I couldn’t get the idle jet to seat with either one. One has a little thin wave washer, the other is just threaded like the idle jet holder. I’ve never been able to get the cut off solenoid to seat right years ago I’ve had problems in the past from over tightening and wrecking the seat it was so many years ago at least that’s what I thought happened. I’m really phobic of wrecking the seat on my recently purchased 32/36. The jet seats just fine in the jet holder. I took the jet and slipped it forward a little out of the solenoid’s holder, screwed it all the way even without the o’ring and it hadn’t slipped back all the way back into the holder, I had to push it a small bit more for it to be in the jet holder like it’s supposed to be in order for the jet to make contact with the seat. I tried it on an old Weber and tightened it really tight, same thing. The holder just simply doesn’t extend as far on the solenoid as it does with the brass jet holder. I’ll try tech support on Monday I just thought I’d ask around. I can’t understand what I’m missing back to the brass jet holder till I can figure this out.
    It sounds like you’re using the “Street Lethal” Weber like I’d originally upgraded to from the original stock Solex carb that I had to modify just to make that one run properly on a GT... I also had to install VW idle jets in the new (so called) street legal Weber just to make it past the California smog emission requirements because nothing else I did worked... But at this point, anything 1974 & older no longer requires a smog check in Calif, so we can now install any regular Weber carburetors without that temperamental anti-dieseling cut off solenoid you’re likely referring to... I found the problem with mine was not to so much the length of that protruding idle cut off rod, but the fact that the solenoid itself wasn’t stable enough, depending on the lower amperages of my system while idling at the lower RPM’s... Many GT’s running the stock 28amp alternators tend to drop amperage even lower at the recommended base RPMs... This caused my anti-diesel solenoid’s internal fuel shut off rod to protrude in & out, rather than remain stationary, & that caused my stalling issues... I remedied the issue with a 1,2,3 punch approach, but probably either one might work for yours, provided you don’t have a defective anti-diesel solenoid on your street legal carb... I switched to a higher amp battery because of the older wiring on my GT has moderately more resistance than when it was new... I replaced my battery cables & related alternator, & Electric choke wiring with the next heavier gauge to boost the amperage... I installed a higher amp alternator, & electronic voltage regulator... I also increased my idle speed a bit, but eventually, after running through two or three of those Weber carb solenoids I finally just cut off the internal rod’s tip of one anti-diesel Solenoid & never had those stalling issues again... Normal Weber carburetors don’t have that same issue, only the street legal version... Be advised: You still need to keep that anti-dieseling solenoid there to to seal & prevent a vacuum leak, or seal that opening with another fitting... Almost forgot, I also had to cap off my EGR valve that runs from the intake manifold to the exhaust pipe before I changed my exhaust to high-performance headers, because that little device was far more trouble than it was worth constantly causing vacuum leaks & stalling while spewing excessive carbon particles into my intake manifold... I’m not recommending you break any smog requirements if you still have to pass some unrealistic smog checks in your state, but thank God Calif. finally came to it’s senses with the un-practicalities of that nonsense on older cars... They paid their dues & there’s not that many left compared to new ones... Good luck friend...
    Last edited by Mr DJ-GT; 1 Week Ago at 10:13 PM. Reason: Afterthoughts

  12. #10
    Senior Member The Cub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    545
    Real Name
    Tom
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by opelspyder View Post
    In my opinion the only reason you even need one is if you can’t fix the initial problem with run on. I don’t like them, they could cause a problem, and if everything else is right...you wouldn’t need it
    Okay now I’m in full agreement. My 7 day affair with this idle cut off solenoid is over. I had my first experience with it cutting out tonight , also the stumble off idle was worse. I don’t think the carburetor makes for a good ground, I’m not sure that it was sealing properly at the o’rIng anyway the way I had it shimmed with the washers. Back in the drawer for another 20 years it goes, or for good. It did stop the dieseling even with the idle speed screw in way too far. I just go back to the brass jet holder and the 2 full turns in on the speed screw and it gets me 7-800 rpms with a smoother idle and less stumble off idle. No run on at that low of rpms. I’ve figured out a good way to limit my mechanical advance. I can only get 3° Of advance at idle as is now. I’ll be getting around 15° or somewhere in that neighborhood, that should hopefully push me up close to the 850-900 rpms so I can close the throttle plate back down below the first progression hole. I hope. Well nothing ventured, nothing gained I suppose.
    Last edited by The Cub; 2 Days Ago at 01:09 AM.

  13. #11
    Member guyopel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Duluth,Ga.
    Posts
    1,420
    Real Name
    John
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0
    You can connect your dist. vacuum advance to intake manifold vacuum for advance timing at idle and plug the advance connector at the carb.
    This would increase the idle speed and you would not have the hard "Hot start" from high timing advance.
    HTH
    John
    The Cub likes this.
    Guyopel
    I have not failed - I've merely found 10,000 ways that won't work."
    ---Thomas Edison
    It's amazing what God lets man get away with when lightning is so cheap. Mark Twain

  14. #12
    Senior Member The Cub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    545
    Real Name
    Tom
    Downloads
    2
    Uploads
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by guyopel View Post
    You can connect your dist. vacuum advance to intake manifold vacuum for advance timing at idle and plug the advance connector at the carb.
    This would increase the idle speed and you would not have the hard "Hot start" from high timing advance.
    HTH
    John
    Thanks for the suggestion, I already tried it and it helped but not enough. I’m looking 15° Initial then to pick up some more advance at tip in from the vacuum ported connection. If 15 mechanical seems too high I’ll take it down closer to 10. I’m so close, I’d love to have the ability to get above 900 rpms and even get that speed screw under 1 1/2 turns. This seems to be the only thing left is to pour on the advance at idle without exceeding the total of 34 degrees. Here’s the write up I added to this thread as to how I’m limiting the total with the more challenging type of distributor. You may have already seen it Post #51 https://www.opelgt.com/forums/1b-ign...ods-etc-3.html

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 2 users browsing this thread. (1 members and 1 guests)

  1. edwinopel

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •