A Call for SR20 documentation - Page 3
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Thread: A Call for SR20 documentation

  1. #41

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    Manny, I'm sure Ben appreciates the positive comments. And it got me thinking, that perhaps my comments weren't too encouraging. So, Ben, I hope you understand, I would like to see you do this engine swap, and my comments are not to be construed as negative, just a little bit of insight for what I had to do on Willit?. The folks here on the sight have given me a whole lot of support in my Willit? project and I'm sure they will do the same for you. I plan to make the Fallbrook meet with it, so if you're gonna be there, we can compare notes and maybe something I did will help you out with your project.




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  3. #42
    Southern Red Neck BQS4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigben View Post
    Ron, a while back I asked about the weight of the opel 1.9 and I think I remember you saying something about having shipped one recently. Who was your freight carrier?
    Ben;
    I shipped a complete 1.9, with all the accessories from Tucker, GA to San Pedro, CA. It was all on a nice small wood pallet that weighed a total of 329 lbs, and went out by ABF Freight lines. Cost the person in CA about $280 to get it there. "BUT", this was done "dock to dock", which is the cheapest route.
    "Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon"

  4. #43
    Opeler bigben's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info on shipping.

    Ron, don't worry I think your comments have been very constructive and helpful and I appreciate the encouragement that I am receiving here on the forum. I won't be making it to Fallbrook but maybe some time we can meet up. I doubt I'm more than a half hour from you. (unless it's raining and everyone forgets how to drive!)

    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

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  6. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigben View Post
    (unless it's raining and everyone forgets how to drive!)
    Yeah, like last Friday, when it rained. The CHP had 88 accidents reported in 4 hours, more than double what they get in a 24 hour period. Anytime you wanna see Willit? check out the member map, and contact me, I'm here almost all the time, lotsa projects now that I'm retarded.




  7. #45
    Opeler cadence's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigben View Post
    Underneath the water outlet there is right where I was planning on putting the alternator. I think it will fit in well and still give clearance for the steering shaft. Well, I don't know if I'll get much time to work on the swap tomorrow but I'll definately be heading to the bone yard for some brake components; it's half off day at Ecology so I'm going to try and take advantage of it.

    Ron, a while back I asked about the weight of the opel 1.9 and I think I remember you saying something about having shipped one recently. Who was your freight carrier?
    You might want to check out alternator mounts from a 91-94 sentra se-r or infiniti g20. the are mounted under the waterneck stock and there should be bosses if not threaded mounting holes on your block that will match up. Should save a little fabrication time. Also for a little more clearance on the passenger side you could get a greddy (or a knock off "freddy") intake manifold. It has straight runners and frees up some space where the stock one curves under.
    bigben likes this.

  8. #46
    Opeler bigben's Avatar
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    Right now I think I am okay on the right side, it's the interference of the wastgate actuator with the steering column that is causing problems. I think Ron may be right. I may have to use some u-joints and move the steering column over a bit.

    Well tonight I pulled the engine again, made a few more sheet metal adjustments and put it back in. Then I slid the tranny underneath and muscled it up into the tunnel and bolted it to the motor. I tried to jack it up in there to level out the engine to get a better idea on position and clearance. Now I have a new difficult spot to deal with. The transmission tunnel and the parking brake linkage is not getting along very well with the tail of the tranny. It seems they both want to occupy the same space. Other than that there is lots of room around the transmission. I'm going to have to think about this one a bit.

    Time: 2

    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

  9. #47

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    Ben, I had close to the same prob on Willit? but it was the u-joints that wanted to be in the way of the cable "U" at the end of the linkage. I had to remove the cable adjuster, install the driveshaft, then hook up the brake cable. The brake linkage is fairly soft and can be moved slightly and should not pose a problem with the emergency brake working, because the cable adjusting "U" will provide equal tension to both sides of the cable. HTH.




  10. #48
    Opeler bigben's Avatar
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    Ron, I think I am actully hitting the tunnel right below the back of the e-brake. I'll have to take a better look when I have more time.

    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

  11. #49
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigben View Post
    Right now I think I am okay on the right side, it's the interference of the wastgate actuator with the steering column that is causing problems.
    You can always fabricate a new wastegate actuator arm or relocate it on the turbo by clocking it differently. I had to do this recently on a C5 Corvette, I was helping install an APS C6 Corvette twin-turbo system, and it would not fit the C5 chassis. I ended up making a new actuator arm that physically wrapped around the starter! Works fine, I just had to make it from thicker material to compensate for flex at the bends.

    Oh, and don't forget to add LOTS of heat shielding around the u-joints and the firewall area...don't want to melt the grease out of the steering column!

    Bob

  12. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigben View Post
    Ron, I think I am actully hitting the tunnel right below the back of the e-brake. I'll have to take a better look when I have more time.
    If that's the case, Ben, you will probably have to fab a tranny mount similar to the one I did for Willit? to drop the tranny, I only needed 3/4" drop to clear everything, but the healight mechanism does rub a bit on the tranny, also under hard cornering, the body shifts just enuff so the u-joints impact the tunnel slightly. Very unerving the first time it happened, so I take the corners a bit more slowly.




  13. #51
    Opeler bigben's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
    You can always fabricate a new wastegate actuator arm or relocate it on the turbo by clocking it differently.
    Yeah Bob, I was actually thinking about extending the rod and putting a jog in it to miss the steering column.

    Ron, when you dropped the tranny down 3/4" did you run into alignment problems with the torque tube? On mine it looks like I'll either need to drop the front torque tube mount down or make some room to cram the tail of the transmission all the way up in there. (see the photos) If neither of those work I may have to switch out the rearend for a five link impulse turbo rear.
    Attached Images Attached Images

    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

  14. #52

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    Ben, you've got more room between the rear of the tranny and the torque tube than I had, it looks like. There's no problem with dropping the tranny about an inch, the driveshaft with dual u-joints will compensate for the angle changes. My drive shaft total length is 11", with barely 2" between the u-joints. Standard GT drive shaft length is 22" total length. When the rear suspension goes into compression or raises up to the body, the angle between the tranny and torque tube will get less. What you may want to do to check it out is remove the rear springs and jack up the differential to the stops, then drop the rear end to where the shocks are fully extended and check the angles at both extremes. You gotta remember the tranny doesn't change angles but the drive shaft and torque tube do and the yoke on the tranny end of the driveshaft slips in and out to compensate for the angle changes HTH.




  15. #53
    Opeler bigben's Avatar
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    Well that is reassuring. I knew the u-joints could make up for it but I didn't want to set them up for premature failure. Now that you mention it though, most rear wheel drive and especially pickups have a fair angle between the tranny and the diff.

    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

  16. #54
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigben View Post
    If neither of those work I may have to switch out the rearend for a five link impulse turbo rear.
    Better start planning for that swap now then! With a stock SR20DET and a decent exhaust system, you will have more than enough power and torque to demolish every little spider gear within an Opel axle.

    Bob

  17. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
    Better start planning for that swap now then! With a stock SR20DET and a decent exhaust system, you will have more than enough power and torque to demolish every little spider gear within an Opel axle.

    Bob
    Bob, picking your brain, just a bit, does that mean with Willit?, I'm about max "allowable" hp with the advertised 160 hp of my engine and maybe a bit more with the true dual exhaust and the ZF posi? I'm guessing, with some luck I've got, maybe, 175 hp. A dyno run is planned in the fall at the Coronado Classic Car Races.




  18. #56
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by namba209 View Post
    Bob, picking your brain, just a bit, does that mean with Willit?, I'm about max "allowable" hp with the advertised 160 hp of my engine and maybe a bit more with the true dual exhaust and the ZF posi? I'm guessing, with some luck I've got, maybe, 175 hp. A dyno run is planned in the fall at the Coronado Classic Car Races.

    The limited slip you have will allow 220-250 hp without too much trouble. The next weak link in your driveline Ron will be the torque tube itself, it's rather spindly. The teeth on the pinion input spline are also notoriusly weak, I've stripped a bunch off clean with a lot less horsepower!

    But ultimately it all boils down to traction, if you hook up solidly, parts will fail. Wheelspin is a godsend in this case!

    You are probably making 145-155 hp at the wheels, which should not be an issue. The Nissan turbo engine that's being talked about here is capable of 250 wheel hp with not too much trouble at all...I have friends with the same engine making 450-500 hp in their street cars. It has a LOT of potential.

    Bob

  19. #57

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    Wow, now that I've hi-jacked Ben's thread, unintentionally, it looks like the posi may not have been a good idea. So there'll be no "Banzai" starts and just some cool hiway cruisin', along with some full throttle runs through the gears getting up to speed, once I'm rolling. That'll be lotsa fun.




  20. #58
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by namba209 View Post
    Wow, now that I've hi-jacked Ben's thread, unintentionally, it looks like the posi may not have been a good idea. So there'll be no "Banzai" starts and just some cool hiway cruisin', along with some full throttle runs through the gears getting up to speed, once I'm rolling. That'll be lotsa fun.
    The ZF limited slip is fine. It's the rest of the driveline I'd worry about!

  21. #59

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    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
    The ZF limited slip is fine. It's the rest of the driveline I'd worry about!
    I hear that Bob, but with the posi, wheelspin is inhibited, to a point, so the torque reaction is transmitted to the rest of the driveline, ie., the propellor shaft inside the torque tube, and my itty bitty driveshaft. I'm sure the S-10 T-5 will handle the engine output, no problem, it's what's behind it and in front of the ZF, that is of concern, if I read you correctly. Going through a drainage ditch with water in it, and with moderate throttle application, the rear tires break loose quite easily, but on dry pavement they hook up immediatly. So I'll hold off on the banzai starts in hopes of the driveline staying together.

    Now, to get this back to Ben's thread, it looks like he may have to do a bit more thinking on his project.




  22. #60
    Opeler bigben's Avatar
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    So if I understand the driveline conversation that has been going on while I've been at work, then the 1st weakest link is the spider gears followed closely by the pinion. Is that a pretty good synopsis?

    My dad was telling me about a niffty locker unit called PowerTrax that replaces the spiders and keeps both wheels locked together while going straight but disengages as soon as you start to corner and stays dissengaged till you finish the turn, no clicking or hopping. I thought i'd see if they make one small enough.

    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

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