A Call for SR20 documentation - Page 5
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Thread: A Call for SR20 documentation

  1. #81

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    Ben, try PB Blaster on the bolt, if you can get the penetrant down the shank and maybe seep into the threads. Once a day for a week, maybe, then try rapping the bolt head with a hammer, it may break the threads loose. Save the metal you've already cut of the car, you may need it later on to help fill the holes. Also, check the manifold bolts location, you may have to put in an access panel to get to them like I did. Also check location of other attaching hardware, on Willit? in order to get to one manifold bolt, the starter had to come out, so I made provisions for that, too. As long as the engine/tranny is like a yo-yo right now, it's a good time to look for that stuff. It's easier to put in an access panel with the engine out. Same for the stuff up front of the radiator.




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  3. #82
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    GT Bumper Brackets

    Quote Originally Posted by bigben View Post
    I didn't get too much done tonight. I put the front bumper on so don't snag my pants on the brackets anymore while walking around the car. (they've caused gaping holes in two pairs so far) [and] I did some work on the gear shifter. Etc.
    Time: 1
    With the bumper off, brackets attach humans. After two ripped jeans & bruises on my legs, bracket corners were rounded off.

  4. #83
    Opeler cadence's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigben View Post
    Another day, a little more progress. I pulled the engine and tranny yet again. This is starting to be a twice a week activity. A trimmed the openings in the foot wells just a tad and folded the long vertical edges over to make a nice rounded edge that won't cut me while I'm working. I also made a little more room for the tail of the transmission. I attempted to change the clocking of the compressor housing to the turbine housing to get the compressor outlet in a little more desirable location but to no avail. One of the clamping bolts refused to budge and now has rounded corners. I was thinking that if I can get an exhaust manifold the tucks the turbo in a little tighter to the motor and a little bit farther forward then I may not have to move the steering column and I would have more room for the exhaust down pipe. I wonder if the manifold used on the Bluebird is any different from the one I have.

    Time: 3
    the blue bird manifold is different. there is also an avenir manifold and gti-r manifold. They are all locate the turbo closer to the block and more forward. If you use it you will deffinately have to clock the compressor housing. if you get a BIG pair of snap ring pliers you can take the snap ring out on the compressor side and spin the outlet in any direction you want. You will also need a custom wastegate actuator bracket and custom oil feed line.
    I am not sure for a fact that the front wheel drive manifolds will work in the rwd configuration as the turbos face opposite directions in the different applications.

    fwd manifold and turbo you can see the direction the turbo is facing.


    avenir manifold
    http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/100_2708.jpg

    bluebird manifold
    http://i16.tinypic.com/2i6fec6.jpg

    gtir manifold
    http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...0/P4090862.jpg

    s13 manifold
    http://i18.ebayimg.com/03/i/08/c3/78/3f_1.JPG

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  6. #84
    Opeler bigben's Avatar
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    Thanks Cadence, those pictures are exactly what I needed to see. The Gtir manifold looks like it might work the best for what I am trying to do. Now I'll have to check into availability.

    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

  7. #85
    Opeler cadence's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigben View Post
    Thanks Cadence, those pictures are exactly what I needed to see. The Gtir manifold looks like it might work the best for what I am trying to do. Now I'll have to check into availability.
    check on sr20forum.com or g20.net they are usually for sale on there for 200 or less. also JGY has them for $306 JGYCustoms.com - SE-R/G20/NX Exhaust Manifold

    heres one for sale on the forum for 175 shipped
    GTiR exhaust manifold - $175 shipped - pics - SR20 Forum

  8. #86
    Opeler cadence's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigben View Post
    Thanks Cadence, those pictures are exactly what I needed to see. The Gtir manifold looks like it might work the best for what I am trying to do. Now I'll have to check into availability.
    you'll also want to check for clearance against the dip stick tube and alternator if you move the alternator to that side it will be a tight fit.

  9. #87
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    Steering interference Solution

    I found a better solution to the turbo steering column interference on Craigslist. I picked up an unused equal lengths turbo header. It has the turbo mounted by the center exhaust ports instead of the rear port and the turbo mounts above the manifold! No steering interference! Of course I will have to redo the oil and water lines to the turbo but that is easy. I was worried the turbo would stick up above the top of the engine but as it turns out the highest part of the turbo is about even with the valve cover. I am going to need to make a heat shield to protect the hood from the heat so as to not blister the paint. Another great part is that I will have more room in the footwell. Now it looks like I cut out more metal than necessary. I guess I'll have to put some back.

    Oh yeah, the header only cost me $45!
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    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

  10. #88
    Opeler bigben's Avatar
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    The engine and tranny went back in today. I don't think they will be going in or out more than once or twice more. I hacked the pillars off the crossmember with a sawzall and bolted it up in place. Then I played with the engine location a bit before setting is down on the crossmember. (the tail of the tranny is supported with a jack) I put some wedge shaped wood shims between the engine and the crossmember inorder to get the engine tilted the way I want it. So now it is sitting right where I want it. By the looks of it, I should be able to change the oil filter okay without going to a remote mount on the filter. I think I have pretty good clearance around the whole motor now.(see the pics) Now I need to mark and measure for the modifications to the motor mounts and crossmember. Hopefully my cousin will be able to make it down this week with his mig welder.
    My aluminum honda racing radiator came in this week. ($92 with shipping) It fits perfect; I just need to make some mounting brackets for it. The core is 2 1/4" thick and has a bigger surface area than the stock opel radiator. I'll be using an electric fan and will need to rig up some sort of thermostatic switch to turn it on and off.

    Time: 3
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    Last edited by bigben; 05-06-2007 at 04:05 AM. Reason: forgot something

    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

  11. #89

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    Ben, that's looking really nice. That motor looks so much nicer than the one in Willit?, all that shiney color. Keep the pics coming.

    Do you want to use my dolly to modify your crossmember and tranny mounts? Send me a PM or e-mail via the site if you do.



    Last edited by namba209 (R.I.P.); 05-06-2007 at 12:43 PM.

  12. #90
    Opeler bigben's Avatar
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    Clutch Master cylinder setup

    Marching onward I installed the nissan clutch master cylinder in Vette JR. It was a pretty straight forward installation and it still took a lot longer than I thought it would. First I removed the clutch pedal and then matched the pivot point up with the Nissan pedal and drilled the attaching hole for the master cylinder rod clevis. I removed the bushing from the nissan pedal and transfered it to the opel one. Then I put the opel pedal back in to figure out where I needed to drill through the firewall. Then I used a cheap Harbor Freight hole saw to cut out a 1.5" hole. The saw smoked plenty; I think that is the only hole it's ever going to cut. It was probably intended to cut would, oh well. Then I put the master cylinder in and marked the location of the mounting holes. I had to tilt the master cylinder a little to keep the upper hole from ending up inside the large clutch and brake bushing block. I used the mounting studs and part of the bracket from the 240sx clutch pedal assembly. The only real problem was that the mastercylinder ends up mounted too close to the clutch pedal or you could say the rod is too long. The point is even with the pedal all the way up the master cylinder is stroked almost all the way. So I had to space the master cylinder away from the firewall about an inch in order to get enough travel in the pedal. It looks kind of hokey right now but I'll make an aluminum standoff plate in the near future. I also think that I'll thread the rod about another 3/8" and shorten it by the same amount so I can get the pedal a little closer to the firewall.

    I think I'll set out to conquer the gas pedal next. The plan is to install the nissan pedal below the steering column. It looks like I will need to shorten the actual pedal just a little bit and put a jog in the bar that pulls the throttle cable. That'll probably get to that on Saturday.


    Time: 5
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    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

  13. #91

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    Looking real good Ben, keep the updates and pics coming.




  14. #92
    Opeler bigben's Avatar
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    Last Saturday I spent a little time working on gas pedal plus a little time yesterday and I think it turned out pretty well. Check out the pictures.

    I just looked at the picture and it isn't very good so I'll take a better one showing the throttle cable connected. I'm using the 240sx pedal with only minor modification. I shaved about 3/8" of plastic off the bottom of the pedal so it wouldn't hit the floor too soon. I checked out the motion of the pedal with the cable connected to the throttle and had good results. There is a little slack when the pedal is up and the pedal stops at the floor just as the throttle plate reaches wide open position.

    Tonight I started working on the gauges. I am changing out the guts of the opel tach and speedo with the nissan internals while retaining the opel face plate. I'll end up calibrating the gauges so that the nissan needles match the opel face plates. The only way I could figure out of taking apart the opel gauges was with a saw. It takes a little while and its not very pretty but atleast the scars will be hidden in the dash.

    Does anyone know a better way to take apart the speedometer? I've only opened up the tach so far.

    Time: 3
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    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

  15. #93

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    Darn Ben, I wish you would have put out a query before you did that to the gage. It's really simple to get the chrome ring off the gage. I used a very thin screwdriver to pry up on the part that is crimped over the back part of the gage, then work around the ring, so that eventually the ring is almost de-crimped and will come off with a little force, and go back on the same way. No need to re-crimp the ring, when you put it back in the dash the knurled nuts will hold the ring in place. I've done that to all my gages to clean both sides of the glass.



    Last edited by namba209 (R.I.P.); 05-16-2007 at 02:41 AM.

  16. #94
    Opeler bigben's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by namba209 View Post
    It's really simple to get the chrome ring off the gage. I used a very thin screwdriver to pry up on the part that is crimped over the back part of the gage, then work around the ring, so that eventually the ring is almost de-crimped and will come off with a little force, and go back on the same way.
    That is what I tried first, but even with the ring starting to come loose the glass was still fixed in place. I figured the glass was glued in and if I tried to pry up the glass I would shatter it. So I tried to do a search in the forums but I didn't have any success finding the topic. Ooops

    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

  17. #95

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    There's probably years of gunk holding the glass to the gages. Mine got loose after a bit of playing with the outside ring, and I had to be careful it didn't fall out when I took off the ring. It wasn't a 10-15 minute job, I had to play with each gage maybe a half hour to get the rings off and try not to deform the ring too much.




  18. #96
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    Which Gauges to use?

    Ron, you were right about the chrome ring. The speedo came apart nicely in about 5 min.

    Now the question is: Do I try calibrating the nissan gauges so the needle motion matches the Opel gauge faces, or do I run white faced nissan gauges in the opel housings?

    What does everyone think?
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    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

  19. #97

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    For the tach it could be easy, depending on the new engine red line and the ignition system. If it's battery coil just hook up the tach input to the coil negative post and your done. For the speedo you'll have to know the speedo gear ratio and compensate or take it to a speedo repair shop and they'll do the calibraton for you.




  20. #98
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    QuestionNISSAN or VDO Gauges

    Could the other NISSAN gauges adapt to the GT, 3-small locations? Or you could possible use AutoMeter white faced gauges to match.

    I would use the NISSAN Gauge Faces. They look more Hi-Tech than OPEL!

  21. #99
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    Since you've gone to all the trouble of opening the gauge, the whole world of current gauge face tech is available to you. I've always liked the electroluminescent gauge faces.

    Awesome progress by the way.

  22. #100
    Opeler bigben's Avatar
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    I'll answer a few of the posts at once.

    The white faces that I have are the electroluminescent type which is why I am considering using them. The draw back is that now the car will be capable of using the full sweep of the 150 mph Opel gauge (not that I am planning on driving that fast) and the nissan faces only go up to 115 mph.

    It doesn't look like the other nissan gauges or faces could be easily adapted. They are the wrong shape, kind of a wedge.

    The nissan gauges are all electronic. The SR20 has a distributorless ignition so the tach gets its signal from the ecu. The speedo gets its signal from the velocity sensor on the tranny. Luckly each has its own individual circuitry so they can be separated from the rest of the nissan cluster. Just 3 or 4 leads on the back of each gauge.

    Wait a minute, is that a Turbo down there?

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